As far as engines go, I design and build my own steam plant (following well-trodden paths I hasten to add!). If you want to run the boat with radio control of the speed and/or reversing of the engine, you will need a minimum of a twin-cylinder engine with the two cranks at 90degrees in order to be fairly certain that it will restart if it should stop at small regulator openings – a single-cylinder engine cannot restart if it happens to stop at top or bottom dead centre.
I use a rule-of-thumb for engine sizing based on a formula in a reprint of a 1920 book called ‘Machinery for Model Steamers’ (still available – try Amazon.com), which states the cubic capacity of the cylinder(s) in cubic inches as (L x B x D)/a, where:
L = waterline length in inches
B = beam in inches
D = average draught in inches
a = is a constant that depends on the length as below
Up to 30inches length, a = 3000
30 – 36inches length, a = 2800
36 – 42inches length, a = 2700
42 – 48inches length, a = 2500
48 – 54inches length, a = 2300
54 – 60inches length, a = 2100
If you want to build your own engine and are good with a lathe and hand tools, there are a number of plans and casting sets available for steam engines – e.g. from Stuart Turner or Reeves.
You will then need a boiler to match the engine – but that’s another can of worms!