Transferring from plans

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

How do you guys transfer from plans onto balsa ? Don't really want to cut the plans and to copy it from staples etc seems bit much . What's the best way … Trancing paper and cut shapes out ?

Do you then stick to balsa with something like prit stick so can be peeled off after or is there a pen can trace that can flip over and dab with thinners of such like to imprint onto balsa …

What's the preferred method ?

Matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Dodgy Geezer on 04/02/2016 23:04:32:

There are all sorts of techniques, but I would guess nowadays it's easiest to scan the part of the plan you're interested in on a home A4 scanner, print that out (possibly on adhesive paper), cut it out and stick that cut-out to the balsa to cut around. You may have to print on two pieces of paper and sellotape them together…

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

That's a good idea as long the part fits under the scanner … Nothing worse trying to match 4 pieces for the length of the hull I expect .

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Matt B5m on 04/02/2016 23:06:52:

That's a good idea as long the part fits under the scanner … Nothing worse trying to match 4 pieces for the length of the hull I expect .

I find it's quite easy to join two prints so long as there's a reasonable overlap. Many edges are straight, and so can be aligned using a straight-edge. And you can always take measurements from the plan and confirm that your part matches these…..

The EeZeBilt plans I do are just cutting lines – arranged to fit onto A4 paper. And most people know someone with an A3 printer/scanner – at work if nowhere else. I don't know what scale you work to, but A3 should cover most boat items.

Of course, give it a short while and the plans will simply be downloads of commands for us to feed into out CNC routers….

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Simplest way is just to take the plan along to your local copy shop and have another copy made that you can cut up. Cost will be minimal.

Colin

[The Long BuildParticipant @thelongbuild]

As Colin says, makes life a lot easier.

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Yes Godgy and Colin are right!!!

Also the local copy shop will file it on a USB drive as PDF files, so if you require the boat a bit bigger or smaller it's no problem.

I also trace the frames, keel, breast hook, etc. onto thin cardboard and use a bit of spray glue on the timber.

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Once you have stuck templates onto paper do you peel them off after and I thought spray glue comes out bit stringy and get blobs on work peice?

Matt

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I still do it the old way. Greasproof paper over the plan, copy the part, cut out, place on the wood and draw round it.
After cutting the wood place it over the plan and compare. It is often a little oversize but a light sanding sorts that out.

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Ahhh that's the way I thought pin plan down and tape grease proof paper over top and trace lines , cut out and stick down after cut out peel it off .

Don't cost anything then .

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

In my experience copying usually produces a plan which is marginally different to the original, while any process involving glue can distort the paper. Charles' method avoids both of these potential problems. I use a map pin which I push through the plan into the wood at corners and along curves. I then join up the holes with a fine-point biro. Been doing it that way for donkey's years. It's also "resource neutral"…

DM

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I did not want to start a new thread and this one is on the lines of what I want to know. No pun intended.

Some sets of drawings or plans come with the formers for you to trace. Some are just sections with longitudinal sections. Are these to the outside of the hull or do they allow for hull thickness or does it not matter too much?

I can understand the sections but the long sections I can't get to grips with. I think this may be why I like chine hulls rather than displacement shaped ones I have looked at the video on YT of the company making yacht hulls with the bread and butter method and it defies me how they get both sides the same I like planing wood but would never tackle anything like that I would be too greedy on the cuts and end up putting all the shavings and probably the hull in with the rabbit!

Your comments please would help.

Brian

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Brian,

I can see no point in the long sections ! I've never used them.

Regards Ray

[BanjomanParticipant @banjoman]

Brian and Ray,

If I'm not much mistaken, those "long lines" can be used to plot the shape of any cross section along the hull. Harold Underhill gives a detailed explanation of this procedure in his book on plank-on-frame models (**LINK**), and if, as he did, one is making a fully-framed model, this is an essential skill, as even a large set of sections on the drawings will not provide all required shapes in a ready-to-use form.

As for whether such ready-made cross sections are made to the outside of the hull, I suspect that they are; at least I seem to recall from when I read the Underhill book a few years ago that when plotting, he allowed for the thickness of the skin. But I may be wrong on this, so I'll try to remember to look it up in the book over the weekend or so …

Mattias

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi. Yes i thought as much.

Brian

[BanjomanParticipant @banjoman]

Brian and Ray,

I have now gone thrgh the first two chapters of Vol. 1 of Harold Underhill's book, and found the passage I seemed to recall. He has the following to say:

"The first thing is to discover whether the Lines Plan has been drawn to the inside or the outside of the planking. In almost all builders' plans for merchant ships, both large and small, the Lines will be to the inside of the planking since that is the most suitable arrangement for setting out the frames etc., but in most plans drawn for models the Lines will be to the outside of the planking, because that gives the true external shape of the hull and is suitable for building either solid block or laminated models." [Plank-On-Frame Models and Scale Masting and Rigging : Volume 1, Harold A. Underhill, 1958 (12th reprint, 2006), p. 26.]

This was of course first written in 1958, so I've no idea if it still holds true; it does, however, seem to indicate that if building a model from a lines plan, one should always try to find out whether that specific plan was drawn to the inside or the outside of the hull …

Mattias

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

I use the greaseproof paper method and tape it down with masking tape.

I trace the frames onto Foolscap Manilla Folder using the fold line as the center line.

Mark out one side of the frame and cut out both sides together.

That way both sides of the frame are the same.

Harry Smith

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Being a relative newbie I considered and tried a number of methods including cutting out and sticking the templates down.

But the best method for me is using carbon paper. This gives nice clear and accurate lines for cutting and sanding to. I bought mine from Rymans, not too expensive and can be used over and over again.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 15/08/2018 13:34:36

[S MParticipant @sm83187]

I cheat and copy them at work on our large scanner and print on rolls of paper instead of sheets.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

My method of transferring plans is simple and accurate, similar to Dave M's method

I simply pop through the salient corners and curves, boldly with a Bradawl……..Then join up the dots with a Biro

Having tried umpteen other methods first

Bob

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Posted by S M on 18/08/2018 03:29:50:

I cheat and copy them at work on our large scanner and print on rolls of paper instead of sheets.

That doesn't transfer them to the plywood though does it!

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All

Maybe SM is only making paper boats ? Can't wait to see the pictures ?

Regards Ray

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I like Bobs way of doing it. On Ply the small 'pricks' show up well, but on balsa its a bit harder to define.

I have also tried most other ways with varying results.

 

I asked our secretary to get me some carbon paper the other day. She did not know what it was which worried me a bit! Anyway moving along i like this method too. Last time i tried it, i clipped the paper to the wood with crocs, rather than Bobs weight method. I am a bit clumsy and would end up knocking them and then trying to align it again.

Today in Criccieth the weather was grey but dry, so i spent the day at Llandudno in the sun with the model engineers. Excellent day.

There is an excellent pool at West shore its a pity it does not get used more for model boats. Too much clag in the water i believe.

Brian

 

 

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 18/08/2018 17:39:28

[S MParticipant @sm83187]

Posted by Chris Fellows on 18/08/2018 10:17:12:

Posted by S M on 18/08/2018 03:29:50:

I cheat and copy them at work on our large scanner and print on rolls of paper instead of sheets.

That doesn't transfer them to the plywood though does it!

You cut out the copy and paste to the timber and cut around it without damaging your original plan, you can also store them digitally and print more off in the future if need be.

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