Timber hull – waterproof and smooth?

[Tim PearsonParticipant @timpearson22890]

After an inspiring visit to the Warwickshire show a few weeks ago, I’m resuming the build of a Fireboat 39 model, using the plan from the Model Boats range.   Building began ten years ago, but was abandoned after I’d built the hull, mostly from plywood.  

I also dusted down a timber-hulled model that I completed before beginning the Fireboat, but on its first trip after re-commissioning, one of the timber hull’s joints split open, allowing water on board.  Thankfully I noticed in time and brought her ashore before any electrical bits got a swimming lesson.  On several occasions this model had sailed perfectlywithin a year or two of being built, but I’m wondering if the paint had become porous with age.  After reading other posts on this forum, my intention is to line the hull inside with resin, and to rake out the cracked joints outside the hull, fill them with resin, paint over and try her in the water again.

 I also intend to treat the Fireboat in the same way before it’s painted.

My question is how can the outside surface of a hull be made smooth if part of it – or even the whole hull – are covered in resin which can’t be sanded down.

What do you guys recommend?

[HS93Participant @hs9317166]

I would do it on the outside and leave the inside just painted so it can breath, if you seal the outside the ply wont be able to de lamonate as ply tends to do these days, all paints othere than two pack paints(require a activator to dry) are porous have a look at the link to a site that shows the way to do it that is simple and stops the surface  peeling as can happen with just resin, this is very light as it is used on model planes for balsa covering

peter

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329811

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Tim

From you account of events it sounds like the glue on the seams has failed or become water soluble this is a common problem in older wooden boats and can be cured by stripping the paint back to the wood, raking out the seams and replacing the glue with epoxy. this will atchieve the double effect of regluing the seams and waterproofing them.

A quick repaint and the boat should be as good as new.

I would avoid using resin to seal the hull as it is messey and very difficult to get smooth and you would only be covering up the problem.

All the best

Paul

[Sam VimesParticipant @samvimes38365]

Tim

Paul (fat controller) is being modest again if you check out his gallery you will find a rebuild of a sea commander part of which covers leaking seams, he also has written quite a little article on rebuilding the commander which can be found in his forum posts in reply to david.

This guy knows his subject and will always help if he can.

Cheers

sam

[Tim PearsonParticipant @timpearson22890]

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