sp610 getting warm/hot even

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

Hi useless at electronics but here goes(hopefully i`m not a dumb ass)

refurbishing my veron rttl (see in my gallery) from many years ago. boat looks wonderful now. running on new 7.6v pack. hitech sp610 controller and a (i think) original johnson 540 motor. set it all up, runs lovely fwd but really slow in reverse. neutral point working. run it for 4 or 5 minutes and s/c getting hot. reversed the motor leads still runs normal fwd really slow reverse s/c still getting hot.

could it be

A mtor brushes/ motor knackered?

B/ s/c getting too hot due to age of motor drawing way too many amps?

s/c just knackered?

yes i know the s/c is old and buy a new one but not sure if the old sp610 were meant to handle 540 or is it worth downsizing to a 480? any help appreciated please.

thanks keith

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Check the running gear for lubrication, locking nuts tightening up etc. If that doesn't work then replace the motor and the ESC. Why muck about? If you shop cannily you'll get change from twenty five quid.

Dave M

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

thanks dave but at the moment £25 is what it says. been furlowed for 12 wks and other 1/2 is restricting cashflow. just trying to get something going so i can get of the damn house for a bit of fun. cheesed off with cooking and garden work now. even my old boy saxon passed away 3 wks ago. no walks up the lanes anymore, too many memories

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Keith. What DM says. Twiddling the motor by hand it should turn really easy, if not then something is wrong. Tight, bent or woteva.

Is this running dry out the water? or in.

Easiest as suggested, change something….do you have another boat to try bits from ???

OR try the motor direct on the battery when boat is in the water. It should rev fine and might get a bit warm but not hot. Hotness in these circumstances could be overloaded motor, too big a prop.

aSHLEY

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Thanks dave but at the moment £25 is what it says. been furlowed for 12 wks and other 1/2 is restricting cashflow.

Then this isn't the sort of problem I can advise you on, Keith. As Ashley says, a bit of TLC might help – and that costs nothing.

DM

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

Hi dave, apologies if i seemed a bit off but i think cv19 gets to us all at some point. cant see the restaurant opening again to be honest. so be it just wait and see. anyway, might scrap sp610 , gave me a good run for many years. i have found a turnigybrushed 20 amp controller for airplane. i know it only has fwd (how many r/c airplanes go backwards?) an rttl spends most of its life going fwd very fast. would this work?

is it man eneough for 540 size? its not often i would want to go in reverse. never heard of anyone using a controller fwd only on a boat,all of them for sale have fwd/rvs

cheers keith

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

No way would I use a forward only ESC in a boat. You can't brake or manoeuvre properly.

May I suggest you proceed as has been recommended, especially if money is tight, finding out if the motor or ESC or installation is at fault will reduce the need to spend extra money, then replace or repair as necessary. Trying to second guess yourself can lead to even more money being spent, I.e. changing the motor type will probably lead to needing a new coupling, and possibly the propeller as well. Be methodical, it works and saves time and money.

Chas

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Keith. Fit a 15 or 20a fuse on one of the motor leads (female flat crimped connector) and automotive flat fuse.

Try the Turing 20a controller. Anything other than a hot 540 should be ok, and if not, the fuse will go.

Loads of our boats have forward only and it’s not a problem. Just think ahead a bit, and in any case it will show if the old esc is faulty or not.

AFTER you have done the other checks, nuts/bolts/shaft.

Ashley

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

The old Hitec 6/10 was state of the art when it first appeared, but used what were probably the most terrible power transistors ever let out into the world. The components that drove them used a lt of power to do so, and tended to heat up to their thermal limit. They had a tendency to grill both themselves and the PCB where they were mounted. It is very possible that over time something has cooked. I would have expected the "forward" circuit to be distressed first.

When the label said "8.4 Volts" maximum, it meant it. When it said 10 Amps current, it really meant it. Back in the day, 540 motors were a sort of standard, that ESC was designed with them and 7.2 volt battery packs in mind. But a lot depends on how the 540 is loaded. A heavily loaded one might want to pull more current than the ESC can supply.

Does the motor show that behaviour when not mechanically connected? i.e. no load. If so, its not the prop shaft misbehaving.

Does it behave like that without the ESC? i.e. direct connection to the battery. If so, its a broken motor.

Does a different motor misbehave when connected to the ESC? If it does, the ESC is the guilty party.

What happens if you operate the "servo reverse" on the transmitter and connect the motor reversed so that forward on the stick is still forward on the motor?

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