Soldering suppressors to the motor

[Paul GodfreyParticipant @paulgodfrey14946]

Hi folks

 

Having a bit of a problem with soldering RFI Suppressors to my motor.

 

No problem with the terminals, but struggling with the motor casing which acts as a big heat sink, and is difficult therefore to get sufficient heat for the solder to ‘take’. My soldering iron is 30w.

 

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Paul

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 16/07/2009 19:00:23

[Paul GodfreyParticipant @paulgodfrey14946]

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Paul,

 

A common problem, as it is difficult to heat the motor casing.

I use a simple cable tie, or alternative binding, as a mechanical fixing method. Some use a jubilee clip.

 

Hope this helps,

Tony.

 

 

Edited By Tony Hadley on 16/07/2009 21:32:47

[Barry FooteParticipant @barryfoote68385]

Try roughing up the casing with a file where you want to solder to. This concentrates the heat somewhat and helps the solder stick.

[Paul GodfreyParticipant @paulgodfrey14946]

Thanks for your comments guys, much appreciated.

 

I’ll give the casing a roughen-up and try this first, but if I still have problems, the Jubilee clip/cable tie idea sounds a very good solution.

 

Paul

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Another possibility, depending on the motor is to use a small solder tag where the mounting screw screws into the front of the motor.

 

Colin

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

I use a large powerful soldering iron, and gently buff up the patch to be soldered with fine wire wool in order to clean it (but dont rub the plating off) I also use some soldering fluid/flux and a non-cored solder.  So saying, some motors just dont seem to want to be soldered to!   If you are using a standard L shaped motor mount, and screws the easiest way would be to use the screws as terminals and attatch the wires to them. Ashley

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

whoops.. repeating Colins suggestion !!

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Glad you noticed Ashley!

 

Great minds think alike.

 

Colin

[Paul GodfreyParticipant @paulgodfrey14946]

Thanks all.

 

Ashley – what wattage is the iron you use?

 

Paul

[Phil AbbottParticipant @philabbott79958]

The other way which also works for soldering onto tags on batteries (as you don’t want to keep to much heat going into a battery) is the method I use. Take a piece of steel about 1/4 inch square and at least 6in long (although any steel stick would do)

Heat to bright cherry red with a blow torch (hold metal with pliers !!!) you now have a very hot soldering tip (hotter than any iron can get to) and use this to solder to the motor casing. You will find you only have to touch it, as it is very hot, the casing doesn’t really have time to work as a heat sink.

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

I use a 60 watt iron – quickly, having first buffed the area as described by Ashley.

 

Peter. 

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

I find that a gas torch works very well for soldering on to larger motor cans.

It puts lots of heat in a small area very fast and is ideal for spot soldering on motor cans. 

 

Paul

[Paul GodfreyParticipant @paulgodfrey14946]

Thanks guys.

 

I’ve managed to get the job done, using a combination of the methods suggested.

 

I didn’t have a steel bar to heat up, so used a 6 inch nail, which allowed the solder to partially take to the casing. I then used my blow torch (unfortunately I dont have one with a fine flame like TFC – not yet, anyway!), a quick blast was all it took to finish the job off.

 

Thanks again to everyone who’s kindly given advice.

 

Paul

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

No idea watt (!) wattage my iron is, its got a great bit 1″ wide tip though!   Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Paul

 

Have a look on fleabay……you can pick up a new fine torch for £2.00.

 

Paul

[Paul GodfreyParticipant @paulgodfrey14946]

Thanks Paul

 

Had no idea they could be picked up for that sort of price.

 

Paul

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