NewB

[Gary Hill 1Participant @garyhill1]

H, I've just joined the forum having lurked for a couple of months. I'm a sometime aero modeller who built a boat in 1987 from a magazine plan from a mouldier hull and styrene sheet. It reached the bath stage then I realised I didn't know where to sail it so it got put in the loft and moved from home to home, but I recently repaired it ready to try again now I've retired. Having lurked her for a while I decided to build another, this time a TID tug from a Sarik plan and set of laser cut parts, having just received the parts I now have some queries. I'll take a couple of photos to illustrate by problems, should I post them here under beginners or elsewhere?

Gary

[Gary Hill 1Participant @garyhill1]

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Hi Gary and welcome to the forum.

I would continue to post on this thread for a while. If it seems that you might chronicle your build over a longer period of time than you could make a specific thread up using the name of the boat as a title.

There are likely a fair few TID builds detailed on the interweb to look at, and these may answer a few of your questions.

Ashley

[Gary Hill 1Participant @garyhill1]

Thanks Ashley,

I think the initial problems are quite generic, the first relates the position of the prop shaft, on the plan it is parallel to the waterline but being shallow draft it is almost resting on top of the keel it gives me the option of notching the keel to allow a gear/belt drive or tilting it at an angle to get the clearance. I'll set up an album to show what I mean.

Gary

 

Edited By Gary Hill 1 on 20/07/2018 10:29:20

[Gary Hill 1Participant @garyhill1]

The second question relates to fitting the prop shaft. As it's as thick as the keel I'll need to split t keel, do I do it before fitting bulkheads or after stringers are in place. Presume I need to effectively box the shaft so the two halves of the keel are connected, any tips gratefully received.

Gary

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Aim the shaft at the motor – not that much angle, from the outside nobody will be able to tell.

Yes give the tube a slot to sit in, yes fit a doubler each side of it to join the halves. Fairly standard practice.

[Gary Hill 1Participant @garyhill1]

Thanks for replying Malcolm, I thought it wasn't a new problem and I'm glad the obvious solution is the generally accepted one.

Gary

[Gary Hill 1Participant @garyhill1]

Hi, some progress on my first wooden boat build.which leads to my next newbie question. I'm about ready to apply some 24gm fibreglass using west epoxy. Do I remove part that would overlap on the bow or just slit it and overlap to give a bit of extra 'crash' protection? I guess I'll have the same issue at the stern. The skeg is ready to fit and I plan to slip that in place while the resin is still green and epoxy that in place.

Gary

[Byron Rees…(Ron)Participant @byronrees-ron]

Hi Gary,

The TID is coming on well. The 24gm fg is so thin that I normally overlap it about an inch at each end and squeegee it down well with an old credit card of piece of plastic. Once dry a light rub down before further coats are applied will see the overlap disappear.

Another method is to do one side including the overlap and let it dry. Feather in the overhang and cover with the second side. After a couple of filler coats of resin over the top to fill the weave you won't even see the join.

Ron.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Gary

I can't fault Ron's description of the process – it's exactly the way I approach the job.
I've chipped in to say that in my experience 24gsm cloth is a bit too fine for this job. If you just so much as catch the cloth with a fingernail or a bit of dried glue stuck to your finger then you'll distort the weave and leave a big gap which is hard to fill. I favour 34gsm cloth and I also apply a very light coat of 3M 'Spraymount' on the hull before laying the cloth in place. Just a very light dusting, allowed to settle onto the hull from a foot or so above it, is enough to make it slightly tacky – which is all that's needed for the job. **LINK**
The forthcoming Wooden Models Special edition of MB magazine will include an extended article about covering wood hulls with tissue or cloth and the use of epoxy and acrylic resins.

Dave M

[Gary Hill 1Participant @garyhill1]

Thanks for responding Dave and Ron,

The 25gm fg was intended to repair a plane but I didn't bother in the end. Dave, using spray mount rather than laying the glass over a layer of epoxy resin, does this result in less chance of pulling the weave out or is it just an easier way to apply the cloth? I'll look out for the article, although I'd like to get it done while the weather is reasonably warm

Gary

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Gary

DON'T try laying the cloth on top of wet resin! I guarantee it will end in disaster (ask me how I found out). The Spraymount will hold the cloth against the wood while you brush the resin through it, but at the same time will allow repositioning it if you're careful. Once it's wet with resin there is zero opportunity to do so successfully. If you send me a private message then I can forward a better description of the method by E-Mail.
There is a very good video of how to apply GF cloth with Eze-Kote acrylic resin here **LINK**

Dave M

[Gary Hill 1Participant @garyhill1]

Dave, many many thanks for the spraymount tip. I can't imagine how dreadful a mess I would have made without that tip. I was a little short in my estimate of epoxy required but all being well I should get a second coat before the temperature returns to normal.

Gary

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