Hull painting

[Aidan BartleyParticipant @aidanbartley31920]

Hello. I’m building a plank on frame Hull. I’ve sealed and sanded many times and I’m pleased with the result. I’m a beginner and have a number of questions please.

1.do I need to use dope and tissue paper even though the Hull seems to be sealed?

2. I want to use spray enamel paint. Is this OK to do? If not, what’s best?

3. In either case, what primer should I use please? I want to use spray cans for a smooth finish. Many thanks.

[Aidan BartleyParticipant @aidanbartley31920]

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

Hi Aiden, are the planks you used balsa? If so then tissue and dope is one good method among others. It's the method I still prefer, although finishing epoxys are favoured by others.

Have you considered the inside of the hull? This is also vulnerable to damp and water which can swell the planks. I like to use a polyester resin inside my models, it seals and strengthens everything. Old varnish or paint will also seal the wood, but without adding strength.

Enamel sprays are fine, but you might consider the acrylic sprays such as Halfords rattle cans, they also have primer sprays to match.

If your planks aren't balsa, then the tissue etc isn't needed, but still consider the inside.

I hope that helps a little, I expect you'll get some more ideas to think about from others, but the idea is simple, seal everything, take your time, and when you decide on a finish, stick with one type, don't mix different makes.

Chas

[Aidan BartleyParticipant @aidanbartley31920]

Thanks Chas
Not balsa but thin strips of quire tough wood. Good tip on the inside which I hadn’t considered. I like the sound of acrylic. Presumably not as pungent. Thanks again.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Aidan

I like the sound of acrylic. Presumably not as pungent.

There's more than one type of acrylic paint. The difference is in the medium used to carry the paint. While some like Tamiya are water-based and have very little smell the car-aerosol kind like Halfords use a chemical solvent which is highly volatile and very smelly!

Whether or not you use a surface covering like tissue-and-dope or glasscloth-and-resin is a matter or personal preference. It's easier not to do so but my experiences are that the grain of the wood and the joints between the planks will eventually show through the finish, whatever it is. BTW all of the enamels in spray cans which I've tried have been frankly poor. The pressure seemed inadequate, the nozzles too coarse and the paint was prone to runs and sags in even the lightest coats. It also took a lot longer to dry and seemed to attract dust and insects as if by magic! I do still use enamel but I apply it with an airbrush and restrict its use to small parts.

You might find this article useful **LINK**

DM

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 16/07/2018 08:26:53

[Aidan BartleyParticipant @aidanbartley31920]

Thanks for this DM. Great tips. I have one final question please. At the moment the hull is like glass as I’ve not sanded the last coat of dope. When I apply primer, should it be on a smooth surface or should I give it the lightest of standings first? Many thanks. Aidan

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I would give it a very light rub down with wet and dry paper, finest grade, say 1000 or better used wet. Then clean off, rinse and let it air dry before priming / painting. If you haven't used wet and dry before, beware that very little effort can remove more than you expect, so a very light touch is needed, you are only keying the surface for the paint.

Make sure there is no bare unsealed wood, inside or out before starting or you're in for problems.

Chas

 

Edited By Charles Oates on 16/07/2018 12:21:26

[Aidan BartleyParticipant @aidanbartley31920]

Brilliant. Thanks Chas.

[geconParticipant @gecon]

Been a while since the last 'offering' in this thread i see. I Started off last year by buying commercial yacht paint for my Fisher 34. Believe now that I should have considered buying an airbrush and use acrylics! Thanks to Eddie and others the hull finsh is coming along OK now but there are long waits between coats,and too much sanding down for my taste! Of course a scratch build/planked/epoxied hull is bound to be labour intensive. It's my first -and last- scratch hull!

Ordered an airbrush which will be collected tomorrow! Going for less smelly and quick-drying acrylics for the rest of the Fisher and next (Colin Archer) build. Going to test first on the Colin Archer ABS hull. Billing Hull Red nr.006 here we come, I hope. Still use hand brush and Humbrol enamel for small parts though.

George.

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