How to work it out.

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How to work it out.

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  • #10709
    Roger Simmonds
    Participant
      @rogersimmonds35858

        I am building a model of "the Two Brothers" motor trawler from a photo off the net and all is going well so far,but I have a problem == I have a 545- 5pole motor that I would like to use with it but what sort of speed- controler would I need, is electronic any better than a mechanical one?  The model built on a fibreglass hull should weigh about 5 kilo when fineshed.

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      #10719
      Paul Freshney
      Participant
        @paulfreshney24971

        For what it is worth, I have used electronic speed controllers for many years now. Mechanical versions have moving parts that usually require adjustment. Currently, M-Troniks, ACTion and Electronize all offer speed controllers in roughly the same price range. The M-Troniks versions are the smallest (and waterproof) with no moving parts (relay) at all. A Viper 15 from their range would most likely suit, but equally a Condor from ACTion or an Electronize controller would do the trick. All these manufacturers have websites, giving the physical sizes and performance of their respective controllers. I have recently used both the ACTion and M-Troniks controllers with no problems on 540(5) type motors and an Electronize version a few years ago also with no problems.
        Paul Freshney

        #10721
        Roger Simmonds
        Participant
          @rogersimmonds35858

           Thanks so much for your reply Paul, seems best then that I go with the electronic one.  But is there a way to work these things out or is it all down to experiance?

          #10722
          Paul Freshney
          Participant
            @paulfreshney24971

            If you are in a club then the experience of fellow modellers is a good starting point. Beware the person who knows it all! – Get a balance of opinion to decide what is best for you. If you read Model Boats regularly, you will see from time to time kit and step by step builds of models and in these the writer will usually refer to what combination of motor/propeller/electronic speed controller (ESC) he has used. For example in the forthcoming Kit Special, due in the newstrade in approx 18 days time, a range of of kits are reviewed using a range of motors and speed controllers.
            For what you require, a 10 or 15amp rated controller would most probably be ok at a price of between £20 and £30 from any of the suppliers that I have mentioned earlier. I personally have not had a failure from any of them – but no doubt somewhere out there, is someone who may feel differently!
            Beware of purchasing a controller for rc electric cars. These may have a brake built in and a fixed speed reverse which is not what you want for a model boat. All you want is full proportional control forwards and reverse with a small ‘dead band’ at neutral. M-Troniks controllers have an optional facilty for setting up the unit, but I have found their default settings on the current range perfectly satisfactory. ACTion are just switch on and go – Dave Milbourne who now runs this business is an experienced model boat builder and designer. Electronize offer the facility of building the unit yourself from a kit of parts.
            Paul Freshney.

            #10723
            Paul T
            Participant
              @pault84577

              A small warning, don’t be tempted to buy a second hand electronic speed controller or one off an auction web site, they are cheaper but as they say you get what you pay for. As Paul says stick with established UK suppliers that way you will know exactly what you are getting.

              Be careful of the maximum amp load, tugs have large propellers and tend to need a large electrical load when first starting up, use a meter to check the maximum load and then you can be more exact in your choice of speed controller, but as Paul said 10 > 15 amp should be fine (it all depends upon the size/weight of the model, the motor and the size/pitch of the propeller)

              Good luck with the build and I hope to see some photos on this web site.

              #10727
              Roger Simmonds
              Participant
                @rogersimmonds35858

                 Thanks for your very quick replies chaps,will do exactly as you say.  I think this is going to be a great website. Regards Boger

                #11006
                JC Uknz 1
                Participant
                  @jcuknz1

                  Having used ‘Bob’s Board’ controllers in several models .. mainly becuase they are relatively easy to make … the BB I bought didn’t mate with my first model’s motor … so I have made my own with ‘experimenters’ circuit board [strips of brass on a board] and 5 watt resisters. I only need three steps Off/low/medium/full so that is just two resisters with wiper giving forward and reverse using same resisters on opposite sides of board.

                  I then tried an electronic version and was dissapointed that it took an appreciable time to change from forward to reverse or back ….I like to give little bursts when berthing. 

                   Maybe a knowledgable type can tell me how I had set it up incorrectly and why I had that problem … but until I know better I have decided to return to BBs.   My ‘scale’ models have room for 7Ah 12v batteries so I am not worried about the waste of power a BB creates when operating at a  ‘mid-power’ setting.

                  #11014
                  Paul Freshney
                  Participant
                    @paulfreshney24971

                    Some electronic speed controllers have adjustable settings, e.g. M.Troniks and you have to refer to the instructions to set them up correctly. Other esc’s don’t have any adjustments at all and indeed with some r/c equipment you can change the effect of the sticks from a linear movement to an exponential movement, e.g. a servo if was connected to the relevant channel, it will only move a little for a large stick movement either side of neutral and then move more as the stick reaches the limits of its movement. One way to check if the radio is working ok is to connect a servo to the relevant channel on the receiver and see if you get instant response. If so, then it is the definitely the esc that is either at fault or needs adjustment. A delay is built into some esc’s to avoid damage to the electronics with sudden power surges. So in short their are a number of variables. I have found that the current version of the M.Troniks Viper 15, which advertises instant reverse, does indeed in default mode do just that for my model HDML, but it might not be suitable for your model. In my club there are members using quite elderly Maplins esc’s perfectly satisfactorially, so it can all be a bit hit and miss.

                    #11813
                    Nicholas Aquilina
                    Participant
                      @nicholasaquilina88791

                      Hi,

                      First of all hope that every one had a nice christmas.

                      Please can any one could help me. I am looking to buy detailed drawing to try and build myself a wooden Tug boat or Lifeboat, I will be very glad if one could help me from where I can buy the drawings and may be with some information too.

                       Thanks.

                      #6398
                      Roger Simmonds
                      Participant
                        @rogersimmonds35858
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