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[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Maybe too late now but I took this shot of Aldeburgh's Mersey last Autumn.

Not a Tyne I know.

Colin

 

Edited By Colin Bishop on 04/02/2018 19:48:39

[Tim Ford 2Participant @timford2]

hi, all

Had some some set backs on the build this weekend, ive found the glue used hasnt been that good for bonding the ABS plastic, wondering if its because the weather is a little cold for working in my shed, ive had to cut the transom down some more, it appeared to be 8mm higher than was really required, even though there is /was a mould line to cut to. ive put in the lateral beams in place but having trouble getting them all to the correct height so the deck will make contact with each one, some rethinking required so i can move on

[Tim Ford 2Participant @timford2]

looking for a bit of advice now for the above, what will be the best and easiest method to ensure i get all the beams the correct height and curve from stem to stern and port / starboard,

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Tim – I would assume that the curve from side to side would be correct anyway as you have cut the parts out from the plan?

As regards getting the heights right and hence the curve from bow to stern I take it this is shown on the drawing?

If so you could cut out a temporary profile from ply and fix the beams to it. This would then hold the beams in the correct position whilst gluing.

Hard to be more specific without seeing the drawings but a jig along these lines would help.

What do the instructions say? Are there any markings on the hull for positioning of the beams?

Chris

[Tim Ford 2Participant @timford2]

Ive taken the shape for the beams off the plan, but moved there position to aid the strength of the opening of the deck housing.im thinking of using a long straight edge and sand away but still maintain the curves, would this method be the way to go…

[Tim Ford 2Participant @timford2]

Hi, All

work on my Tyne class life boat has been slow, due to me being really cautious with the plans and build, i have come to another issue thats really giving me grief, so wondering if you can help out, So, i have made up the brackets that hold the shafts away from the the hull just behind the rudders (some times called A frame), where they are glued in position as per plan the angel the shaft are to the motors is so low inside the hull the motors will have to be almost 12 inches away from the point where they go through the hull, plans call for 4 inch shaft, in order for me to get the shafts some where near the plan the brackets (A frame) will need to be remade at a greater angel, so would putting the props away from the mid way point on the rudders make a lot of difference to the performance.

just like to point out i have no build notes or instructions for this model so going with instinct and what goes..

regards

Tim

[TelstarParticipant @telstar]

Hi Tim.

I wondered if this photo could throw some light on the tyne class stern.

[David Hooper 1Participant @davidhooper1]

Hi everyone, just a quick note to all members.I have just been to my local Aldi (Blackwood in Gwent) and they have a fantastic set of hand clamps (12 in the set) for £5 what a steal just had to get 2 sets so I hope that they have the same at an Aldi near you.Regards,Dai H.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Looking at the picture of the Tyne as above, one wonders why they didn't go the whole hog and make the props inside proper tunnels?? Surely would have been more efficient…or perhaps this would have taken too much design time up??

​The new Shannon ones have jet drives now.

Ashley

[Tim Ford 2Participant @timford2]

thank you for the pic of the tyne boat, i actually have that picture on my pc now , i have improved the position thus the angel for the shaft but in the process butchered the hull, so a far bit of repair work to be done, very steep learning curve though.

[Tim Ford 2Participant @timford2]

Hello guys

i want to cover the brass rudders on my tyne class lifeboat, making them look much like the ones in the photo above, has any one done the same if so, can you give me some pointers or direct me to videos, i have a couple of ideas but looking for inspiration ..

[ROBERT BUTTRESSParticipant @robertbuttress87089]

Hi all, I,am new to the forum & require some help please on a project – I,am revamping a Baitboat for fishing – I have upgraded the motor & ESC (G2 HYDRA 50 kit from Mtronics) and replaced the lead acid 6V battery with a Lifepo4 12ah 12Volt – I've installed new Futaba servos etc.

 

The problem i,am having is that the boat goes at slow speed, but when i turn up the speed it slows down? the prop shaft is 5mm where it joins the motor shaft which is also 5mm – these are connected with a stainless steel universal join – at the propeller end the shaft is M3 on which a 50mm plastic 3 blade propeller is mounted – the propeller seems very flimsy, and I was wondering if this is collapsing under the strain of the new motor ?

If anybody can advise me that would be great.

I,am also getting a lot of heat from the ESC, after a while 10mins – the motor judders like its getting intermittent power. 

Below is a link to a youtube video that shows the same boat as I have. Single propeller & rudder steering.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcU_Oz0dDjs

Edited By ROBERT BUTTRESS on 08/05/2018 13:19:46

Edited By ROBERT BUTTRESS on 08/05/2018 13:23:18

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