Fairey Huntsman 31

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Harry – funnily enough I was thinking of you when I was looking at it and thinking Tasmania is a long way away!

Yes, it is the fibreglass hulled one and apart from a very small scuff on the bottom of the hull the whole kit is like new. I've wrapped it back up and taped up the box again.

Eddie – Looking forward to you starting it.

Chris

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Chris/Harry

Good luck with sending that halfway around the world…

I was speaking to a well-known model trader this morning and he told me that, whereas previously most goods sent by air from China were using spare hold capacity in passenger aircraft, now there's no passenger aircraft the air freight rates have gone from perhaps $4-$5/Kg to $15 – with no discount for bulk. One guy paid that rate on a consigment of 1.5 Tonnes! That may be the case world-wide.

Dave M

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Dave

I am hope the Fairey post would be fair price as pre lockdown, Australia Post was about $300au from Sydney to Hobart !!!

It was cheaper to get parts from England to Australia.

Parcel Post was a third of the price !!!

Keep safe

Harry Smith

PHD in faster boat !!!

HA HA

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Harry/Chris

I've always used a UK company called Interparcel which sources "rides" from other carriers. Never found anyone to beat its price or reliablility.

"Just a satisfied customer", as the advert says.

DM

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

[Jerry Oram 2Participant @jerryoram2]

Hello was the scale not correct my questioning is that I built kits but would like to build directly off a plan . Seen free plans on sites but unsure if they are correct . Jerry

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Jerry

I'm building all my models at 1:12 and whilst there have been a number of kits produced over the years for the Huntsman 31 none of them are at that scale. I do have a set of drawings though but I like to tweak the construction, more so with my other builds, and producing the drawings is part of the fun for me. Also I can print out what I want, though with the hull etc. it means joining two or three A3 prints together. Earlier in the thread you may have seen that I have changed the design to the Sport version, for which there are no plans available as far as I know, though there was a kit at 1:48 which is way too small for me.

Are the free plans you've seen for the Huntsman 31? When you say correct, do you mean as a representation of the real boat or from a building point of view?

If you want to build a Fairey then a good plan to start off with is the Huntress 23 available from Sarik Hobbies. The design is by a fellow forum member, Dave Milbourn, and is definitely correct!

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Where does the time go!

Prompted by a comment that Ray made some time ago about me building similar boats I was considering changing the build from the Sport (full open cockpit) to the aft cabin version. Whilst I really like the look of the Sport I already have/am building three full cockpit boats (2 x Huntress and 1 x Huntsman 28) and my big 47" Huntsman 31 has a new owner and so I have made the decision to go with the aft cabin design.

To that end I've increased the size of the deck by the transom by adding in a ply former and infilling with that valuable commodity – balsa! Followed by sanding to the curve of the deck. The only other modification required is to add another former for the front of the rear cabin to sit on.

The 0.5 x 5mm Tanganyka timber strip arrived today for planking the deck. Need to add some additional formers to the deck to provide the camber and then glue the ply sub-deck in place and then planking can begin. I've bought enough strip for the Swordsman and Huntress as well.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Sanded the top of the forwardmost former (top of bulkhead No. 1) so that the sub-deck would sit properly and then added in another former between it and bulkhead No. 2 and sanded to profile.

4 No. pieces of 0.8mm birch ply (bow, by transom and 2 sides) were then cut to shape, slightly oversize, using card templates and then glued in place with a/resin and held with clamps and parcel tape. Left to thoroughly dry and then sanded around deck and internally where the coaming will be fitted.

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 14/10/2020 17:04:45

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

1.5 x 100mm mahogany sheet is being used to produce the bow detail and deck edgings within which the planking will sit.

Started by sticking 2 pieces to the bow with small pieces of double sided tape, roughly trimmed to shape and then sanded back to the edge of the deck with PermaGrit block and then 240 grit on a sanding block. The pieces were then carefully removed using a thin scraper to cut through the tape.

The shape of the bow detail was then drawn onto each piece of mahogany and carefully cut out with the scroll saw and then sanded back to the lines. The pieces were then glued in place with Slo Zap to give some time for positioning.

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

Had you thought of oil based varnish on the perimeter mahogany now and water based for the planks of looks just like teak. With the different shade 😎

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Ray

I'm following the method used by a chap on Mahem for his Huntsman build which looks great. For the planking he used Tanganyka stripwood which he chose for giving a similar look to teak which he finished with matt varnish. On the mahogany he used a gloss varnish.

I've got a tin of Schooner tung oil that I used on the birch ply deck and mahogany rubbing strips of the H28 so shall probably use that on all the mahogany.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Edge pieces were produced by first cutting out a slightly oversize card template and then transferring to the timber and cutting out with the scroll saw. After clamping, the edge was sanded back to the edge of the deck.

Removed from deck and a width of 5mm was marked with pencil dots to form the inside edge, dots were then joined up using a large plastic curve and then carefully cut out with the scroll saw and carefully sanded with a concave PermaGrit block. Note the word carefully keep being used! Finally the pieces were glued to the deck.

Photo shows one edge glued in place and the other being sanded to the deck edge.

Transom piece to be done tomorrow to complete the bow detail and deck edging. The Swordsman has been done at the same time whilst I'm in the swing.

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

That scroll saw is just the job ! I'm just thinking about replacing my ancient Burgess band saw at the moment, as Aldi are selling a Ferrex machine for £147, maybe the similar Axminster offering not sure yet 😉

Regards Ray

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Ray

There's a marked difference between a scroll saw and a band saw, but I'm sure you know that.

Dave M

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Just had a look Dave and the Ferex Ray is reffering to at £149 is another band saw but is showing as sold out.

It was either a scroll or band saw for me and decided on the former. Was thinking about a band saw at some point for planks etc. but may not bother now for the use it will get. The scroll saw has been brilliant and has had quite a bit of use and for less than £120 was good value.

Still fancy a pillar drill though, but don't have the space at the moment.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 17/10/2020 11:36:59

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All,

Yes a few years ago I was given a scroll saw, but the table was about 18" diameter & bloomin heavy so it had to go ! !

I understood that they vibrate up and down ? I prefer the bandsaw for most of my stuff , lots more teeth 😀

Regards Ray

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

It's a question of cutting straight lines vs sharp curves. The bandsaw excels at the former while the scroll saw is vital for the latter. I decided long ago that to have both types was the best option and so it's proved. Mind you, mine were both second-hand when I bought them and just needed a good clean down, oiling and new blades. The Rexon 3-wheel 10" bandsaw is 25 years old and has a pressed steel case and machined bed with large threaded securing knobs, whereas the newer 'Power' it replaced was largely plastic.

Incidentally you can buy blades with different numbers of teeth from any reputable woodworking machine supplier. ALDI and LIDL might make good offers initilally but you'll not get the spares and service backup like you would from, say, Axminster.

DM

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Got on with the piece of edging at the transom this morning. Same process as for the bow; held the mahogany sheet in place by hand and drew around the transom, cut slightly oversize and held in place temporarily with double sided tape, sanded to the transom edge and then removed. Ends were cut and sanded to fit between the side pieces and then glued in place.

Ready to have a bash at the planking now.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

As for the Swordsman I've had to cut out and fit the sub-base from 0.8mm birch ply. Again a paper template was produced first then drawn around oversize on the ply. This was then cut out with the Stanley knife and sanded back to fit inside the mahogany king plank and edgings and flush to where the internal coaming will sit.

Chris

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Spares backup essential. Both the Machine`s mart own small bandsaw and the big De Walt have needed spares after some years and a quick reference to the parts list and a call to machine mart has them almost return of post.

Ashley

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

Which of the Fairey's you are building is your favourite ??

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Ray

That's like asking which is your favourite child!

I like them all for different reasons. The Huntsman Sport may have become a favourite but that is no more!

So maybe the River Cruiser and Huntress.

Watch this space though!

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Just started the planking and got the first one fitted. Even using 0.5mm thick planks they obviously bend upwards going round a curve particularly at the bow where they are tightest.

So decided to use thin CA in the end rather than Titebond so that I could do a short section at a time and not have to wait for it to dry. Fiddly process but the subsequent planks should be easier to do.

Not perfect by any means but once sanded and varnished it should be look Ok. Timber is Tananyka which looks like teak when varnished.

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

That's a task !! Do the planks on the full size boats go round the corner like that ??

Regards Ray

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