Another billings slo-mo-shun

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Hi Bob they are here I believe the screw section is 2mm so that 4mm frames can be pre-drilled to accept them and I’ve heard good things about their holding ability. a little silicone spray on the screw thread prevents them sticking. Miskin models are, I believe from south wales/newport area so I’m hopefull that he will be at the south west model show this weekend and I maybe will save on postage.

 

 

Phil 

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Phil

 

I understand now………………You could make you own really, out of fine wood screws and a bit of ingenuity?

 

Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Very true Bob or even a bit of brass bar,

 

 the real clever bit is the handle as apparently it allows a lot of control on tension without the fiddle of a screwdriver, makes them a one handed tool

 

The Big question is can I be fussed with the bother of making about 15 or 20 of them. Hang on thats £20 !!! answer yes I can !!!

 

Fine brass wood screws 1/2″ no 4 or smaller (where can I find No 2 brass wood screws I wonder) soldered to a bit of round bar or into 1/8th tube, and a micro file handle, a little epoxy!  job sorted.

 

Thanks Bob Inspiration just when I need it

 

Phil

 

Nb fine screws = servo screws usually made of brass! cooking on gas now

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

How`s about……………….Servo screws with a blob of P51 and a washer?

 

It`s a cheapjack way, but it will get you going……..plus the feeling of smuggness thrown in!

 

Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

great Idea Bob just one prob (isn’t there always) my unlimited supply of servo screws has  a limit lol I had a look in the box this morning only 2 left hmm I’ll find some somewhere maybe get some at the weekend.

 

no real rush as the motors/bty/esc/rx/servo won’t be here for a month at least which gives me time to take my time over the veneering.  That bit will be perfect, I’m determined about that!

 

On with the other bits 1st then. Thats the scoop, the steering transfer, and the cockpit!.

 

The transome cover can be fitted allowing the gubbins at the tail to be readied plenty for this week then finish the fore deck next week

 

Phil

[PierreParticipant @pierre]

Hi Phil

 

Thanks for posting details of those planking clamps – I’ve just finished the first planking of Jotika’s “HMS Endeavour” and was wondering  how to go about securing the second planking. (I hate working with CA glue)  Off to workshop to see what wood screws are available. I thought of epoxing them into some dowelling and using some aluminium section for the foot.

 

Pierre

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

How about this then?…….Gents

 

Another spiffin` idea from Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Glad to have helped Pierre I would be interested to see details of what you come up with as a result. that looks interesting Bob is it a wood screw or have I mis-interpreted?

 

Now some pics of the details in hand the steering transfer box pre-paint looks good enough to me and the idea of using a control snake has allowed me to hide the contol details pretty effectively

 

the snake outer inside the hull is still waiting to be fitted to the cokpit base to stiffen it up. the servo will be fitted to the left of the propshaft with the RX on the right to help the lateral balance

 

everything is just dry fitted at present and while I was at it I thought lets see how it’s going to look

 

And with the cowl/hatch removed it looks like plenty of room to swap bty’s

Now to take it all off and spend the rest of the week painting sanding painting sanding while I devise some plank clamps lol

 

Phil

Edited By Phil Winks 1 on 14/04/2010 19:31:19

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks looking nice now, Phil

 

Can`t make out what that “Liquorice Allsort” is at the back, on the left?

 

Bob

 

PS …..My plank clamp is supposed to be a long slender woodscrew, with a washer soldered on

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Brilliant idea Bob prob work just great would need some slim wood screws the frames are, well you know! only 4mm thick.

 

 

Liquorice allsort lol go back a page mate

 

Or look at this

 

 

steering transferbox mate

 

Phil

 

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

I was only pulling your leg, mate!

 

The cockpit area is very neat and tidy

 

Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Thankyou Bob

 

The finishing touch that will make the Allsort? more realistic is the 2 coneccting rods one solid one from the actuator to an arm fixed to the rudder to move it and one fixed at each end comprising a tube at one end and a rod at the other to simulate the damper should look quite industrial and being from nylon control snake very light. the ridges as you can see are nylon cord. they are fixed with super glue which has caused them to become solid (Sandably solid) some ali paint should complete the picture

 

Phil

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

On the transferbox/rudder linkage subject, I’ve had to shelve the two rods idea as it didn’t work at this scale, however what I’ve got is a good representation, the con rod is only dry fit here!

 

Also the paint job on the engine cowl/cockpit and fin is coming along nicely. However I am struggling with the exhaust colour still chance to find something more appropriate at the weekend,

 

Also I have a design for and prototype of the planking clamp and it works

 

It’s made from a 1/2″ No3 (2mm) brass wood screw soldered to a short length of brass tube epoxied into a length of 3/8″ dowel, the foot is as seen a piece of 3mm ply. I have plans for some 3x8mm stainless bar to replace this if it doesn’t prove to hard to drill it. A 1.5mm hole drilled into the frame takes the clamp without danger of splitting, and still grips well enough to allow ample pressure. Total cost was : screws 20 for £1.20 Glue £1.99 for a large double syringe, app 30ml,  the rest from my recycling facility.

 

Got to be better than a quid a piece eh

 

Phil

Edited By Phil Winks 1 on 15/04/2010 19:54:25

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Well done, Phil……….Those homemade plankin` screws should last you forever now!

 

The engine cover looks very pretty and neat………Got a driver yet?

 

Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

No Driver yet Bob! however I’m at the south west model show this sunday!  and I keep sneaking into toy shops etc  when we’re out the, seat is living in my pocket for reference.

 

 

Phil

[Len OchiltreeParticipant @lenochiltree67043]

Well done Bob and Phil with the home made planking devices.

 

What a pair of Plankers

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks, Len

 

Necessity was the Motherhood of Invention…………..so the saying goes……and it`s true!

 

Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Thanks Len! As Bob says neccesity as they say and the result makes the using all the more satisfying.

 

Phil

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Here you go chaps I’ve found the materials to improve the plank clamp. 3x8mm flat steel bar and some slightly longer screws 16×2.5mm this has achieved two things, 1st a vastly improved clamp force, and 2nd the bar is far less likely to be accidentally glued to the plank being clamped! the brass rod handle is drilled to take that small Allen key as a Tommy bar and using them is a breeze.

 

The loose plank at the back of the clamps is merely a spacer to keep the clamp paralell to the frame edge

 

 

 

so with 8 in my clamp arsenal the deck will get done in the next couple of days. then its on to sanding and the dreaded veneering.

 

I made the decision over the weekend to use a specialist contact adhesive that I got from “Deluxe Materials” while at the show, hopefully that and a wallpaper seam roller should see it all go on with no drama, and more importantly no gaps or bubbles.

 

Phil

Edited By Phil Winks 1 on 20/04/2010 16:42:27

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Not one to sit around doing nowt the paint box has been out again and I now feel much happier about the paintwork to the engine cowl. also I feel after many failed attempts that the exhaust colour is just about right

 

obviously the dash needs some work! namely the dials and switches

 

Phil

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Looking nice, Phil

 

I`ll bet you can`t wait to start the veneering!

 

Not forgetting the varnishing too!

 

Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

The veneering is now something I am actually looking forward to Bob having chatted to the guy who sold me the specialist glue. It’s something from my aircraft past used for veneering wings and similar, something you may have used in the past

 

Areo bond water based contact adhesive a cracking glue that dries clear and allows a little slip prior to sticking fast with pressure from a roller (wallpaper seam roller does well) No really nasty smells and water clean up while wet. and as lightweight as they come. don’t know why I never thought of this before many thanks to D&M models.

 

Phil

[TelstarParticipant @telstar]

Hi Guys   Before I went on hol you asked for some info,

   The prop on the boat is a Propshop 3514 brass,

   The crew is a modified pilot figure mail ordered from the U S it seems impossable to get anything other than head & shoulders over here.

pics self explanatery

Cheers Tom

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Thanks Tom really helpfull esp the prop size that’s always a bone of contention shame that motor manf don’t make recomendations as far as prop sizes go. can’t understand why either as the aircraft motor manf do so it’s not that hard to determine with the right kit.

 

I must get a telemetry setup to check these things (I wish lol)

 

Phil

[TelstarParticipant @telstar]

Hi Phil     The lack of technical info for motor/prop combinations is one of my pet rants,

that is why I build a test rig (dynamometer) to look at motor performance. Some of the results opened my eyes, (eg at max power out some motors are less the 50% efficient, and lose 100watt of battery power Heating up the model).

Following on from those tests I have been trying to run a test rig for prop output/performance. It needs to be adaptable for different props, controlable and give measurable readings.

My latest is a low pressure pump in which the prop under test is the impeller, the motor is one that I have all the info from previous tests. The proposal is to measure the amount of water moved per minute, at various speeds under controlled conditions. This may enable me to find the most efficient rpm for a given prop, how big a motor is needed to achieve this etc.

In full size engineering, the first parameter when selecting a motor was Horsepower(watts in metric) then max speed required, after which came motor size, type etc.

With model motors the case size seems to be paramount, and motors with the same number eg 540, from different suppliers give different performances.

Sorry about the rant, you mentioned something I do find exasperating

 

Breathless Tom

[Author]

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