Adding Ballast to SY MOONBEAM ..after deck is on !

[Scott Lawson 1Participant @scottlawson1]

Hi Folks …I have just acqured a nearly built Moonbeam ..the problem is the ballast . When I received it through the post, the ballast was rattling about…so probably caused by transport. Never mind.

She is c. 130cm long, and should wigh c. 8.1 kg ? I initially weighed it at c. 7.1kg , then removed the ballast with a small Dyson , and now have presently c. 3.1 kg of lead 'SHAVINGS'

THE EMPTY VASSEL NOW WEIGHS 3.9KG ,so into the very unaccesible long keel I have to add c. 4.2kg ..since the deck is already fitted, and there are 2/3 stringers epoxied in. I can JUST GET MY HAND INTO THE MIDDLE HATCH SPACE.

I am thinking of maybe using small freezer bags, and pushing them in , after brushing in some epoxy onto the hull keel space.

But any advice would be tremendous !! Many thanks.

[Scott Lawson 1Participant @scottlawson1]

Adding Lead ballast with restricted accesibility..

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I would worry about the bags splitting later. Is it possible to feed lead shot or similar mixed with a slow set resin and fed into each area? Maybe improvise a chute to get it to where it needs to be. Messy but effective and stable if you can do it.

Chas

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Scott

I think I have seen a liquid ballast on the Deluxe models site. Might work out expensive. They do a ballast adhesive as well.

Tim

[BanjomanParticipant @banjoman]

For my part, I would have tried lead shot in combination with some sort of funnel to transfer it to the right spots, and then a second and seperate funnel to add resin (e.g. Z-Poxy finishing resin) to fix it in place. Based on experience of pouring lead shot through funnels, I'd say it might be best to use a fairly wide one, as it otherwise easily blocks.

To buy larger quantities of lead shot, I'd suggest looking at shops supplying either divers or hunters, or you can buy scuba diving ballast lead shot from Amazon: **LINK**.

If I were you, I would also do at least the final stages of the ballasting with the boat afloat in the bathtub to make sure that she is ballasted down to sit nicely on the intended waterline, which should hopefully also be the one already painted onto the hull. I found when ballasting my own Moonbeam (a rather easier job, as it was done at the appropriate stage of the build, i.e. before the deck went on) that the precise distribution of the last part of the ballast made quite a difference, with more needed towards the forrard end of the keel space than aft (see **LINK**, about halfway down the page).

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I wasn't very successful adding the resin afterwards, not with a lot of shot. It was fine if only a small amount was used. it didn't get right in there and some came loose. Also I suggested the slow set resin because it is usually thinner and gives you time to get it all in. The problems of using a funnel are common, that's why a chute is better, and you can make it whatever length is needed. A bit of bent up old tin can is fine.

Ballasting in the bathtub is the best way to get it right, but if there is a problem because of access, as it might be in this model, I would do it in two stages. Get it very close on the first ballasting, test in the tub, then add the last bit to get the trim spot on.

Chas

[BanjomanParticipant @banjoman]

Charles,

That is a very good point, and I agree that a chute would most likely be a better option than a funnel or a tube!

However, I am less convinced that it is a good idea to try to add shot and resin already mixed. Not only does it risk getting rather messy, but it will also give only a fairly limited amount of time to reposition the shot if it doesn't end up in just the right place. This would be a tricky enough business given the limited access, and would become even more stressful if the shot were sticky with resin that could start to go off at any moment.

I think it would be much safer to first get all the shot in place just where it should be and only then use a chute to add resin. If the resin is freshly mixed it should seep through the shot as deep as needed. Or, if one worries about the penetrative capacity of the resin, to add the main parts of shot and resin in smaller batches on the workbench, and then finetune in the bathtub with the final kilo or so of shot …

[TelstarParticipant @telstar]

Hi Scott When I needed to get Resin into a restricted space, I used a Hypodermic syringe (no needle of course).

I needed to put a two part "foaming" resin into a confined space so a 50ml syringe with a piece of plastic tube did the trick.

I put the tube etc. in place with no plunger in the syringe, mixed the resin and poured into the top, then pushed the plunger in on top, ejecting the resin (a very slow setting type) where it was needed, Perhaps using a method as mentioned by Banjoman and Charles to get the shot in place, then "injecting" a slow setting resin would do the trick

Cheers Tom

[Scott Lawson 1Participant @scottlawson1]

Hi Folks…thank you very much for your opinions. As a combination of my own thoughts and your ideas , I think I will use my trusty West Epoxy (slow drying version ) , and initially fill in the long-keel internal void , with shot, AFTER tryng to brush the bilge with epoxy..then pour in the shot to the level , (like the chute/ can of beans approach ! ) , and pour in a level of Epoxy over the top, and leave to set. …then in an ideal world, we will have a reasonably full keel, and stable.

Then into the bath, and ,kind of , the same again , Probably a bit more ballast for'd.

Will let you know ..MANY THANKS…just need some Valium now.

Cheers

Scott.

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

Glad you're getting sorted Scott, as you gather we all have a different approach to get a similar end. Just do what works for you. Just don't put too much in on the first pass, it's bxxxr to get out. I once didn't allow for the weight of the resin, and over did it so I know that's true. Plastic sheet or similar over everything except the access hole is a good idea too, as Banjoman says, it can be very messy.

Chas

 I forgot to say to cover any working bits too, a drip of resin can ruin a coupling………….don't ask.

Edited By Charles Oates on 07/11/2017 16:10:09

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