Riva Aquarama

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Riva Aquarama

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19 December 2016 at 17:58 #6259
Phil Turner 1
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@philturner1
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19 December 2016 at 17:58 #69074
Phil Turner 1
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@philturner1
I wonder if Jeremy could let me know which motors, ESCs, propshafts, props and rudders he used in his Amati Riva Aquarama build? I'd also be grateful if he could tell me the name and address of the supplier of these items. I'm about to start building one, so this information would be very useful. Finally, what is the best adhesive to use on thus sort of kit, and is it advisable to sand away the scorched area of components? (Scorched from laser cutting)
3 January 2017 at 16:46 #69290
ashley needham
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@ashleyneedham69188
Hi Phil. Belated welcome to the forum. I hate to see a post unanswered, unfortunately I have no info on the first two questions.

With regard to the scorching, you would spend a lot of time sanding away the burnt bits and likely open up the joints a bit. I have not (yet) built anything laser cut, but my money is on a divided opinion as to whether sanding is the way to go or not.

Adhesives…. there's loads you COULD use, but an aliphatic wood glue should do, or plain old water resistant PVA…or even superglue in some areas. There are specialised adhesives out there, so perhaps a bit of surfing is in order, or looking for similar kit builds to see who is using what.

I have a Mantua Victory to build, and I shall be using PVA, after tacking stuff in place(for initial rigidity) with superglue.

Ashley
4 January 2017 at 07:50 #69304
Phil Turner 1
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@philturner1
Hi Ashley, thank you for the reply. I was thinking of using an Aliphatic resin, and using a little superglue to hold the parts while the resin cures. Do you think this would work. I'm reluctant to use superglue only, as it would produce potentially brittle joints.

Phil.
4 January 2017 at 08:07 #69305
Ray Wood 3
Participant
@raywood3
Hi Phil

For years I've been paying model shop prices for adhesives ie £6-7 for the double tube 5min epoxy and £10-12 for Zap superglue, but now gone over completely to Poundland products in the Tommy Walsh range. The same double tube epoxy costs a pound and you get a spring clamp,stirring stick with the glue. The superglue comes with 5 small bottles with fine applicators for a pound and its thick enough to produce small fillets whilst still soaking in to the wood, I'm using Gorilla water resistant glue for bigger structural joints and areas or Wickes PVA.

Regards Ray
4 January 2017 at 09:12 #69307
ashley needham
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@ashleyneedham69188
I`m with Ray on this one. At the moment, Wilkinson's are selling Gorilla 1 litre waterproof PVA for a fiver, same as their own make on PVA. A bargain.

I only buy those cheap tubes of superglue now, as it just doesn't store at all over a few weeks, only buy a big bottle if I am actually going to use loads on a build.

A quick surf has just shown me more than a few video clips of this boat on youtube, not sure if they are your size, but several have motor details.

Propshaft lengths simply depend on where you mount the motors. The tube length will be the distance from the end of the motor coupling to the back end of the prop, to the nearest inch unless having one custom made. I would think there simply must be some leeway in motor mounting room to allow for this.

A 35mm diameter outrunner would no doubt do. They come in various wattages, and I would say an 1100Kv one on 3s would do you, Mount outboard end on propshaft(s) so that an "up to" 45mm prop could be fitted and this should cover all eventualities.

I make my own rudders, but the common commercial one with plastic tiller is fine, a large one could be bought and shaped if required.

Ashley
9 January 2017 at 09:38 #69376
Phil Turner 1
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@philturner1
Good morning gentlemen, thank you for the replies, they are most helpful. Hope to start building in the Spring, when I've finished the rocking horse for my grand daughters.

Phil.
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