Some cheaper blade fuses are given a coat of lacquer to make them look pretty. A layer of this can act as an insulator except where the curled-over edges of the fuse holder bear down onto the fuse blade and scrapes it bare. This is naturally a very small area – more of a straight line – and resistance there increases drastically. The cure is to scuff the blades of the fuse before you fit it to increase the area of effective contact – or pay more for your fuses! BTW the screw terminals on P92 are rated to 28A.

You really ought to get a wattmeter and connect that between the battery and the P92. That will show you how much current the motors are drawing. They are small and inexpensive – at the risk of boring folk this is the one I use **LINK**

I always reckoned the 600ECO motors were borderline on power for this big lifeboat and suggested an upgrade to 12v Speed 700 motors. Fortunately these motors survived the demise of Graupner and are still available. They will happily turn 40mm 4-blade brass props without going near the melting point of Chinese plastic…………….. **LINK**

Dave M

Dave. It seems to me that not enough people have these cheap wattmeters. Since purchasing one, I am a convert and I think you cant say it enough.

The Graupner eco motor is not a very hot unit, but I would have thought that 35mm plastic 3 bladers would not overload it.

I have a 600eco on the Toyboata driving a brass 35mm prop AND the rear wheels, and it never gets hot even on 8.4V. I cant imagine 9.6V would cause it to fry fuses as described.

As Dave suggests, a larger motor would be more comfortable at this boat size.

Ashley