Plastic renovation

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Plastic renovation

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  • #35636
    Denis Whitfield
    Participant
      @deniswhitfield58242

      I have aquired a perspex based 45year old 6ft model of the SS Southern Cross. The hull, which is see thru, is in good shape but the super structure has been butchered by exposure to the sun and other influences. As I have no experience in working with "industrial" plastics, can anyone advise me on some informed reading that will point me in the right direction in restoring this beautiful ship.

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      #5751
      Denis Whitfield
      Participant
        @deniswhitfield58242
        #35638
        Colin Bishop
        Moderator
          @colinbishop34627

          That sounds interesting Dennis, Southern Cross was a very interesting ship and ahead of her time – in some ways she innovated many features of modern cruise ships but she looked good too.

          Can you post some photos of the model and perhaps close ups of the damaged areas?

          Colin

          #35732
          Denis Whitfield
          Participant
            @deniswhitfield58242

            Have posted some photos of Southern Cross. I need advice on what type of mouldable "plastic" I can use to recreate the damaged bits, how to mould, what glue etc. I have access to Perspex sheet to replace the decks etc. Also anybody got any ideas on how to remove the "overpainting" so I can salvage some of the existing bits?

            #35746
            Colin Bishop
            Moderator
              @colinbishop34627

              Denisi, that's quite some model you have there. What a pity it has been allowed to deteriorate like that.

              I rather doubt if you will find anyone on this Forum with the expertise to give you the advice you need. perspex is not a very common model boating material although it is used by Adrian Gosling of Speedline Models **LINK** for his superstructures.

              I wonder just how similar the material used to construct your model is to the acrylic sheet used today. You would be probably better off trying to find somebody who specialises in perspex/acrylic sheet modelling of any description.

              Colin

              #35753
              ashley needham
              Participant
                @ashleyneedham69188

                Denis. As stated that is a model and a half. Must have looked stunning when first made. A professional display model, I guess??

                Might even be worth ringing a few pro model making firms for a bit of advice?

                Ashley

                #35785
                Bob Wilson
                Participant
                  @bobwilson59101

                  That damage to me looks far more than would have happened naturally over time. I would think it has been subjected to intense heat, maybe following a fire wherever it was stored! I use a lot of perspex (another name for acrylic) but only for display cases as it is hard and will not bend unless heated. The model looks more like it is made from plasticard sheet to me, that is far more user-friendly when it comes to bending etc.

                  Bob

                  #35787
                  Colin Bishop
                  Moderator
                    @colinbishop34627

                    Not sure that they had plasticard sheet back in 1955 Bob. But you may well be right about the heat damage.

                    Colin

                    Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 12/08/2012 09:10:26

                    #35788
                    Bob Wilson
                    Participant
                      @bobwilson59101

                      Although SOUTHERN CROSS was completed in 1955, he said the model was 45-years old and that puts the building date as about 1967! But I wouldn't be surprised if the model does date back to the mid 1950s and may have been built for publicity when the ship was new! I have no idea when plasticard came in though. I did not hear of it until about 1974! If not plasticard, maybe it was built of celluloid. I know that was widely used in model passenger liners built for adverising purposes that this one could have been!

                      Bob

                      #35789
                      Colin Bishop
                      Moderator
                        @colinbishop34627

                        Yes, unless there is evidence to the contrary it would seem more likely that the model was built closer to the ship's entry into service. The engines aft/no cargo design was considered quite revolutionary at the time and attracted a lot of interest – my Dad bought me a plastic kit of the ship!

                        Celluloid is possible I suppose but as I remember, it was quite an unstable material and highly flammable!

                        As said above, I think Denis needs to get it looked at bu a perspex modelling specialist who might be able to advice on what can or cannot be done.

                        Colin

                        #35803
                        Denis Whitfield
                        Participant
                          @deniswhitfield58242

                          A bit of some background to the above. I am a member of the NZ Shaw Savill Society. The society was given the model ( not sure by whom). The society got an estimate of about NZ$20,000 from a professional model maker to restore the model to former glory but this amount was beyond the society's finances.The model then languished in the chairman's basement until he wanted to sell his house when I volunteered to take the model on sight unseen.Opinion is probably right about the age of the model (about 56 years old) as we think it was used for promotional purposes. The hull and a lot of the superstructure is in pretty good condition except where at some time it has been overpainted with the wrong shade of green and thus obliterating some of the see thru features. If I could remove this paint without damaging the perspex it would simplify things (ideas ?). My major problem is with the other parts of the superstructure (see photos) which obviously need replacing. These parts aren't fire damaged as other parts of paper, cardboard construction in close proximity are undamaged. I think it is just material degradation due to age, sunlight and UV rays. I have obtained a sheet of polycarbonate which seems somewhat similar but am lacking knowledge in moulding, glueing etc. My modeling experience is limited to wood, thus my plea for help

                          #35812
                          Colin Bishop
                          Moderator
                            @colinbishop34627

                            Denis,

                            Thanks very much for the additional information. I don't think any of our regulars can be of much assistance as perspex isn't a common modelling material for us.

                            However I have had a quick look on the internet and if you Google:
                            Working with Acrylic sheet
                            or
                            Modelmaking with Acrylic sheet

                            It brings up lots of references and information which should prove useful.

                            Trying:
                            Removing paint from acrylic sheet

                            also brings up various suggestions including use of rubbing alcohol and oven cleaner!

                            The polycarbonate sheet you have got is generally used for things like safety glazing and is different from acrylic sheet which is effectively the same as Perspex or Plexiglass.

                            Colin

                            #35816
                            Keith Long
                            Participant
                              @keithlong89920

                              Hi Denis

                              If the model is perspex then you should be alright trying some of the gentler solvents such as white spirit, methylated spirits etc. You could also try brake fluid on a swab to see if it shifts the old paint – it can play havoc with car paintwork if you spill it!

                              Be careful with the polycarbonate, have a GOOD look for advice for gluing and suitable paints. There was a spate a good few years ago of motor cycle crash helmets being ruined by being painted with the wrong sort of paint. Polycarbonate is very fussy and can disintegrate almost before your eyes with the wrong solvent applied to the surface, perspex and "acrylic" are much more user friendly but I think the term "acrylic" gets used a bit widely and you're not absolutely certain what plastic you're actually dealing with.

                              If the perspex parts are robust enough to stand a bit of pressure from a rubbing pad, then a car paint cutting compound could be used to shift the paint and to clear up any scratches, as could the old favourites "Brasso" and "Silvo". "Duraglit" wadding might also be useful – you'll have to have a look in your local supermarket or harware store for your local equivalents

                              Good luck – I remember seeing these type of models in the travel agents windows in Birmingham in the UK during the 50's and early 60's – I think one of them was of the Canberra.

                              Keith

                              ps one thing I forgot to add with perspex and "acrylic", beware of getting solvents accidentally on any cut edges unless you're tyring to glue the plastic. You can get a effect where nicks in the cut edge can propagate into the body of the plastic and cause a crack – and that does happen while you watch – you can reduce the tendancy for this to happen by smoothing the cut edge as much as possible – almost polishing it.

                              Edited By Keith Long on 12/08/2012 11:12:56

                              #36984
                              wizard
                              Participant
                                @wizard

                                When I was an apprentice in the 50's I did work occasionaly with Perspex which is a trade name for acrylic. For polishing we used a variety of things including jewellers rouge on a moistened felt buff. also toothpaste on a felt buff for a fairly high polish. For adhesive we used acetone in which we had melted shavings of perspex. It can be formed with heat. I was interested to see the hull which was possibly vacuum formed which would have been leding edge technology in the 50's. I would be wary of using solvents near this as they will melt the surface. To clean it use a detergent in warm water.

                                Good luck with your restoration, it looks like a real adventure for you.

                                Wizard

                                #37012
                                Denis Whitfield
                                Participant
                                  @deniswhitfield58242

                                  Hi Wizard,

                                  Thanks for the advice, I thad a chat with a local paint shop, (Resene Paints Cambridge N.Z.) and they recommended I try a product fromSea to Sky Innovations called Coating Removal (original eh!!).Anyhow it worked a treat and removed the"rogue" paint quite satifactorily.However,the problem of finding a replacement for the badly damaged 'flexible' parts of the superstructure still remains unsolved.

                                  Regards

                                  Denis

                                  #37019
                                  wizard
                                  Participant
                                    @wizard

                                    one way of forming bends in acrylic is to make up a timber former and place your acrylic in an oven with slow heat to allow it to bend over the former. the heat must be brought up slowly as you dont want to overheat it. when the acrylic has taken its shape turn off the heat and allow to cool in the oven.this is basically how the acrylic tunnels in aquariums are done.

                                    wizard

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