Bo

What functions do you wish to operate in addition to motors and steering?

Dave M

I have some wiring diagrams for various different installations for Aziz. These diagrams used to be available on a separate website but that is undergoing a fundamental upgrade and isn't working at the moment. If you send me your regular E-Mail address via the "Message member" link at the bottom of this reply then I can forward a selection of PDF files for you to look at.

Dave M

Bo,

I have had a look at the Hitec Aurora 9 manual (https://hitecrcd.com/files/Aurora_9_manual.pdf?bcsi_scan_a8638f79cc58bbc4=0&bcsi_scan_filename=Aurora_9_manual.pdf), and can very much understand why you find set-up confusing.

First and foremost, it is entirely and exclusively written from the perspective and for the purpose of setting up model aircraft — powered airplanes, gliders or helicopters.

This means that although the English in which it is written is quite good, I'd say, it uses some very specialised (and therefore difficult) vocabulary and takes it for granted that you are reasonably familiar with model aircraft and their operation.

The problem is that very little (if any!) of all that applies to using a r/c set to control a model boat.

You will however need to understand the concept of modes, as the choice of mode (1, 2, 3 or 4 — and the Aurora 9 apparently also has two custom modes) will directly affect how the four channels controlled by the sticks are attributed, and how they behave. See page 63 of the manual!

In particular you need to note that according to the manual, the default mode is set to Mode 2, which means that the throttle (gasen) is on the left stick, up-and-down. You may think that this is fine — many (most?) model boaters like to control the throttle with that stick and direction. However, all these modes are intended for aircraft, and aircraft don't need a reverse function — they never fly backwards! Therefore, in Mode 2 there will be zero throttle at the bottom of the stick's travel, and not in the center as we boaters need it to be. To further complicate things, many radios have an alarm function which will sound if you turn the radio on with a Mode 2 throttle stick in the center position. This makes perfect sense with an aircraft: it could be very, very dangerous to turn things on in a way that would make the propeller spin at half throttle while you are still getting the aircraft ready to fly. But in a model boat, all this makes no sense.

I use a different brand of radio (a Spectrum DX6i), but I think these things are pretty much standard. What I have done is to set the radio to Mode 1 instead. This puts the elevator (höjdroder) function on the left stick up-and-down instead, and because the elevator on an airplane is a function that works up or down from a centered position, I now have a stick with which to control the throttle that will behave as I want it to with my model boats. The only thing I need to think about is to plug my electronic speed controller into the receiver channel socket marked elevator instead of the one marked throttle!

As far as the additional functions that you mention are concerned, I would suggest that you more or less forget about the manual! These are all on/off functions. That is to say that what you want to be able to do is to throw a switch on the transmitter and start the function, and then throw the switch back again to turn it off. To do this, you would normally use some form of electronic switch (such as these https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches.html) that you connect to the receiver, and when activated makes things happen by letting current flow through a circuit and then stops things again when desactivated.

To find out which buttons on your transmitter does what through which channel socket on the receiver, you can simply take a normal servo (if you have one) and then connect it to each channel in turn, and try flipping the switches around until you find the one that is connected to that channel. Make a note, and move on to next and so on. If a transmitter switch is a simple two-way on/off affair, the servo will most likely just move between its extremes, but that doesn't really matter. All you want to do is to map transmitter switches to receiver channel sockets.

I hope the above helps to some extent. If you'd like to, please send me a Personal Message through the Message Member function, and I'll be happy to repeat my message in Swedish. Given that this is an English language forum, public messages are not supposed to be in any other language, which of course makes sense as otherwise most forum members would be excluded from (parts of) the public discussions. If for example someone does not quite agree with what I've written above, or even thinks that I'm wrong (which is always a possibility!), they could not say so if they hadn't been able to understand what I'd written, could they?!

You might also find it worth your while to check out the Modellbygge i Fokus forum here: https://modellbygge.ifokus.se/. Although it is mainly used by people who build static plastic models, there are quite a few model boat builders on there, too, and everyone speaks Swedish …

Mattias

Edited By Banjoman on 17/05/2019 13:00:07