Hi Andy and welcome to the forum.

As a first test, I would pop it into the bath and check for leaks.

It may be an old "Aerokits", or similar, design /kit.

Send us a photo or two (you'll need to set up an 'Album' first), plus some measurements, weights etc that you can derive.

I'm sure the experts will be able to advise you on any repairs, preparation, radio and speed controllers that you may need.

Dave

Hi Andy and welcome to the forum. First of all modern radio and electronics components can still be used to operate any motor so no worries there. Pictures would be a huge help as we can then see exactly what you have got and what you need to get it operational. You will have to make some decisions yourself but, assuming that you will only want to control this model you can go for a fairly simple and cheap radio but you will want to go for one with the receiver included. The simplest set up then would be a speed controller and a servo for the rudder but we cannot help with the speed controller until we know the size of the motor.

There may well be two or possibly three cables going to the receiver so we need to know a little bit more before being able to help. The cables would be:

1) One from the steering servo that moves the rudder to the receiver.

2) One from the speed controller to the receiver.

3) If your speed controller does not use a battery elimination circuit you would also need a seperate power supply for the receiver from a small battery pack.

Pictures will be a great start, if you have trouble just let us know.

Hi again Andy

Looks like you managed the Album creation OK !

As Colin says, I think the choice is (a) restore as a vintage model on 27 MHz radio, or, (b) come into the new world of 2.4 GHz.

I went the vintage route with my little RAF launch. It was quite fun to finish a project that my son and a friend had begun many years earlier. The main snag is that 27Mhz is prone to interference (non-intentional) from other modellers /radio sets. I mainly sail this one far away from others.

For the Pilot Cutter, I'll be going 2.4 Ghz as I'll be sailing mainly with other yachts. The advantage is that '2.4' is, for the main part, interference free and gives a certain 'peace-of-mind'.

Incidentally, last night at a club auction, I picked up a used 2.4 transmitter with manuals plus a bag of servos for £10…..even buying new, 2.4 has now become very cheap compared to the radios of old.

Let us know how you get on – plenty of help here,

Dave

The red wire with the ring is almost certainly the positive battery lead. That it has a ring terminal also mean likely the boat would have had a sealed lead-acid type battery.

The Decaperm came in 6 and 12v versions as far as my research shows, and when I “restored” the big destroyer I have I did not trace the battery wiring to see which version of motor I had. I am running it on a 7.2v Nimh stick as an “in between” compromise (it’s using direct drive) and the motors are coping very well with brass 45mm props. I didn’t see any markings on the motor to tell me which version I have??

With regard to your model….it depends on what you want to do with it as to how much you want to spend and how fast you want to go.

If the model will work with simply a new 4x cell receiver battery pack and a Nimh battery, you are quids in.

If not, as suggested, buy a new 2.4 gig set and a new BEC equipped ESC (so eliminating the need for a separate RX battery pack) as this is the most trouble free way to go.

Ashley

Something like this might be all you need to get up and running.

Radio

and you would also need one of these to power the receiver:

Receiver Battery

My apologies, I hadn't noticed that you already has a set of instructions for the speed controller.

I think with the above items, plugging the speed controller into the receiver Channel 1, this is usually the left hand stick up and down, the steering into whatever channel is on the other stick with a left to right movement, most sets it is Channel 2, and the battery pack plugged into the power socket of the receiver you may well find everything works without any further expense.

Hi Andy,

You have a Veron Fast Patrol Boat there 52" long quite a large hull for your Decaperm If it's using the geared drive ? I think it will cruise around at a decent speed not enough power to get her up on the plane how she should be, reading other folks experience's it was quite fast with a 10cc glow motor back in the day !!

If your keen enough and want a better performance look up the relatively new brushless motors and Lithium Polymer battery options for power she will fly but quite a large investment involved.

Good Luck Ray

Hi Andy,

I looked at your photos and see you have the larger Hectaperm rated at 12 volts and direct drive to the prop so should produce enough power for a decent speed, May I suggest you obtain a 7 cell 9.2 volt Nickel Metal Hydride battery pack and a 40 amp ECS it should go pretty well

Regards Ray

NiMH packs appear in increments of 1.2 volts. A 7 cell pack will be labelled as 8.4 volts, an 8 cell pack as 9.6. The 7.2 volt packs have 6 cells.

Traditionally, with a 2 channel set from back in the day, the right hand stick going left and right does the steering. The servo for that job usually plugs into channel 1. The left hand stick up and down is the throttle and uses channel 2. As a result, the first sign of radio interference (the bane of 27MHz AM) is the rudder servo twitching.

With modern sets having 4 channels, it becomes 1 for rudder, 3 for throttle, but still the same sticks.