Beginning the Sir Kay kit from Caldercraft

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

Beginning the Sir Kay kit from Caldercraft

This topic is empty.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

Author

Posts
24 March 2009 at 00:12 #1849
Maj.Kootstranovski.ret.
Participant
@maj-kootstranovski-ret
how to build in the rudder.
Advert

24 March 2009 at 00:12 #19670
Maj.Kootstranovski.ret.
Participant
@maj-kootstranovski-ret
Hallo there.

My name is Harry Kootstra,see my profile ,and I,m ready to start building the Sir Kay from Caldercraft.Now there is some confussion about the rudder build in.

The rudder comes with a shaft that is 3.2mm and they suggest that you drill a hole of 4 mm in the hull and put in a 4mm alu shaft over the rudder.As you can imagine,this is a very wobble construction.Also how to get it watertight?

If there is someone out there who has build the boat or a similar,please would you be so kind to contact me as I,m not an experiened builder.Some 15 year ago I build the Banckert from Billing and no trouble wath so ever. Also the main plan is not to scale so you have to figure out a lot by yourself.

Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks up front and my mai adress is the following.

[email protected]

Edited By Maj.Kootstranovski.ret. on 24/03/2009 00:17:15
24 March 2009 at 03:53 #19673
JC Uknz 1
Participant
@jcuknz1
I have mounted my rudder’s shaft in a tube, usually brass, and then made up an epoxy ‘bog’ mixture which I place around the tube where it comes through the hull [inside] … no problems with water entry and if you taper it up the pipe it makes a very strong firm support. If you are concerned that the tube is not strong enough then organise a strut across the hull to hold the top of the tube. The top of the tube should be above water level. Last time I did this I didn’t use epoxy but Polyester glue which expands as it cures. I have a belt sander so I always have some dust on hand to mix with epoxy. At a chemist you should be able to find talcam powder which is an alternative to my sander’s dust, but it costs a bit. Or perhaps steal some from your better half, SWMBO

I also used the Gorilla glue to fix the drive shafts in position for this last boat but earlier I’ve used an epoxy bog to fix and waterproof the brass tube to plastic hull. In fact I was on a Gorilla spree and used it all over the boat to glue things

My Club had a ‘glue night’ and something like sixty glues were brought along with only a much smaller number being common to a number of members.
24 March 2009 at 23:30 #19719
Maj.Kootstranovski.ret.
Participant
@maj-kootstranovski-ret
Thanks for the tip.But my main concern is to make it watertight around the 4 mm shaft,where it ends above the rudder.Also considerd a smaller brass tube with a silicon bearing.If its not watertight you can get the phenomena off capillairy action and then you have water in your boat. Talcum pwder is there in my wife,s depertment in the bthroom,so no problem with that.Yet a question about the drive shaft wich I ordered with the boat(Westbourne) it is sealed on both ends,but is it wise to put on a grease nipple?? As you see I,m not familiyar to those things.A got a message from Paul Fresnry and he recommended to keep all the heavy stuff,such as batteries and so on,as low in the boat as possible.I have now everything to put in the hull and bought two 6 volt 4 amp,s sealed batteries.Gonna put them in after I put on the waterline and make them parralel,so she’s running on 6 volts 8 amps.I think that will do and can shift the weight around till I,m satified of how the boat lies on the waterline.Anyway thanks for your message and if you have more tips,feel free to wright me. Thank you,

Harry Kootstra.
24 March 2009 at 23:39 #19722
ashley needham
Participant
@ashleyneedham69188
Harry. If you get a bit of tube which is a nice fit over the shaft, make sure the top is above the waterline and grease it a bit you really shouldn’t have much of a problem. I have only seen problems when the top is below the waterline, or the flow from the propeller is strong enough to push water up the tube, a highly unusual occurrence. You could also apply the same rule as your prop shaft adjustment and ensure the tiller arm is snug against the top with minimum play. Ashley
24 March 2009 at 23:57 #19724
Maj.Kootstranovski.ret.
Participant
@maj-kootstranovski-ret
Ashley

Thank you very much for the tip and I get more and more amazed how willing are to share there experiences.A whole new world is opening itself here right before my eyes.

I think that I have a lot of more questions in the future,so you will probably see more postings from in the near future.I,m now gonna start with the batteries,drive shaft motormount and the other things neccesary to sail the boat.Someone told me to keep the weight as low as possible,so I both two 6 volt 4 amps lead accu,s and gonna put them parralel so I have 8 amps.As said the main plan is not to scale so there,s a lot to figure out.I saw you gun deck building and may I ask what scale it is?? I,m still looking for sailors for my minesweeper and the scale is 1/48.Hope that we can have some more contact in the future,because as I said this is really something new for me.

With utmost regards,Harry Kootstra.
25 March 2009 at 08:50 #19736
Colin Bishop
Moderator
@colinbishop34627
Harry,

Ashley is correct that if you put some grease in the rudder tube and the tube top is above the waterline it is most unlikely that you will get any leakage,

I’m afraid that you will find in many kits that the drawings are not exactly to scale which is a nuisance. I am told that this is to discourage people copying and selling them.

As far as 1/48th scale figures are concerned, have a look at the ones George Turner Models produces. They have two naval sets at this scale and they are very good quality: http://www.georgeturnermodels.com/

The advice you have been given to keep the weight low is particularly important in this model which has a lot of deck fittings and equipment.

Do not hesitate to ask questions on this Forum. People are very willing to help from their own experience.

Colin
25 March 2009 at 13:07 #19740
neil hp
Participant
@neilhp
hello Harry,

I tend to sail in salt water and to get over the corrosion aspect that usually forms when the white metal is in contact with either brass or alluminium tubing as supplied in the kit, I use a length of Plaststuct plastic tubing for my rudder tube( the white stuff that is for sale universally in hobby shops)

I find that the plastic acts as a natural lubricant, but I still put a vaseline type grease into the tube, mixed with graphite powder, and this makes it very easy with absolutely full waterproofing but virtually no friction against the servo motor.

we all have our own ways of doing things but it will give you an idea for your own way of dealing with these little problems.

neil.
25 March 2009 at 23:37 #19756
Maj.Kootstranovski.ret.
Participant
@maj-kootstranovski-ret
Hello everybody on the other side of the pond.

I will thank everyone who helped me with my question about the build in of the rudder.

With all the hints and tips I,m sure it will gonna be allright.

Now I have a new question,about the colours I will need to paint the boat.

Below the waterline/no problem,but what colour or colours do I need for the superstructure.I saw on a site a Sir Kay build by Julian Machin,and it it looks he used two colours on the deckhousing an other items.The guns I will do my own way and going to replace the barrels with either syringe needles or small tubing.So anyone who knows more about these colours,please can you notify me??

It dnt mather if its either acryl or enemal paint like Humbrol or White ensings.I believe W.E.has the most colours and they are enemal paints.I love to spray trough the airbrush enemal paints.In my experience do spray better then acrylics.So gentleman feel free to give your opinion in this matter.I have to make my apologise if my English writing and formulation is maybe not allways what your used to,but for one thing I,m sure, its probably better then your Dutch(ha Ha).As they say in Germany,I wish you all allways a handwidht of water under your keel. Regards,Harry Kootstra.
26 March 2009 at 08:38 #19758
neil hp
Participant
@neilhp
Your english is far better than MY english at times, Harry.

I am going to “throw the cat in amongst the pidgeons” here ( an old english achronism for stirring it up a little) and say, why don’t you paint your Sir Kay in North Atlantic Dazzle colours.

I have just bought a larger version of the model you are building, the Sir Lancelot, from Mountfleet models, and fancy doing her in Dazzle paint, and have had a couple of leads from gents on this forum.

I am also about to write to the RN Coastal patrol service museum, ( Sparrows Nest) in Lowestoft, Suffolk for info on Dazzle colours…….it would make a nice change from the usual monotonous warship grey that we see most WW2 warships painted in………

Now that will set your mind thinking.

If I get any info I’ll pass it on to you, if interested.

Neil.
27 March 2009 at 00:06 #19762
Maj.Kootstranovski.ret.
Participant
@maj-kootstranovski-ret
Helllo Neil.

Thanks for the info,and yes it could brake the monotonous grey colourI saw the Sir Galahad in the Model Boat magazine,but he was a litlle to expensive for me.

I,m retired you now and had nothing in terms of RC conrols.Well you probably know what it costs to buy everything new.Transmitter Robbe F14, motor ,speedcontroler,batteries,batterie charger,and a lot off other little items.

To please the missis I will ow stop to buy things and strat building the stuff that must be in the hull.Soundmodules,smokegenerator,and lighting will come in due time.I,m also thinking of make the main deck out off plastic card and put then on the printed overlay.

You see there,s a lot to do.But I think it will be very rewarding when she,s finished.

Keep up the good work and maybe you could send me some in progress pictures.

Then I will do the same to you. Regards,Harry Kootstra.

[email protected]
27 March 2009 at 07:56 #19765
neil hp
Participant
@neilhp
Will do, Harry, and enjoy the build.

just a point, you don’t need to go as expensive as the F14 transmitter/rx. there are plenty of multi channel radios a lot cheeper.

neil.
27 March 2009 at 09:55 #19769
Colin Bishop
Moderator
@colinbishop34627
Harry, plastic card for the main deck is likely to be quite a bit heavier than plywood of the same thickness so maybe not a good idea. I am building a steam yacht kit at the moment which is also top heavy. It was supplied with a 1mm thick plastic card deck and I substituted 1mm birch plywood which was much lighter.

Also, as Neil says, you don’t need to spend all the money on a F14 radio, there are much cheaper multi channel alternatives available.

Colin
30 March 2009 at 09:19 #19811
JC Uknz 1
Participant
@jcuknz1
While I have used waterproof grease for my prop shafts.tubes it does tend to create a drag on the motor which is not good and the answer from my local ‘guru’ was to solder a vertical tube onto the prop shaft with a small connecting hole and top up this tube with light oil. I orioginally bought the waterproof grease for the wheel axles of my 1:1 scale boat trailer …. it is a light buff colour and came from BP Oil Co.
30 March 2009 at 12:49 #19818
neil hp
Participant
@neilhp
sounds similar to the old Talus 20 grease that i used to deliver to the waiting trawlers in Fleetwood docks.

very heavy grease for a model boat.
Author

Posts