Hi Peter

As an older modeller I remember Bustler.

Your query raises many questions, what size prop. is fitted to the model, how much room do you have in the model (what scale/size is it). 

Based on the motor you have, Electronize 360-14, from Electronize data sheet the max continious current for this motor (1A) means that for a prop. any bigger than 30mm you will need to use either a 6V gel cell or a 6 cell 7.2V NiCad. with a stall current (again from Electronize data sheet) not exceeding 2.5A then the ESC can be a Mtronics 10A 4.8 to 12 volt. or an ACTion 10A esc, or indeed your preferred make not less than 10A working.

The battery is mainly dependant on how much room you have to fit it in, running at the designed current a 3500mAHr nicad would give you 3Hrs running on a full charge.

Radio gear is a matter of personal choice and depth of pocket.  I use 40MHz equipment these days, I do still have some 27MHz, but find in my area there is a lot of outside interference on 27MHz, When I bought my latest equipment the model shop mixed and matched for me, giving me a RX TX combo, with rechargable TX battery and charger, one servo and an ESC, they credited the price of the second servo against the ESC.

It depends wether you plan to fit Lights Foghorn etc. to your model if you are then it may be worth getting a four channel set, if not then a two channel would probably do.

Hope his helps, if you need more PM me

Telstar

Hi Peter

It depends on what you mean by "smaller than the 6v gelcell".  If you mean lower voltage then I think you would lack power for that motor, but if you mean smaller physically then no problems. Be aware if you use an ESC with BEC(battery eliminator circuit) you do not need a receiver battery for the radio ( save space and weight ) A 6cell or 7cell nicad (of the type used in RC cars) would be the type of battery I would tend to use but if space and weight is at a premium, Model Power do 2700mAH battery packs based on the AA size cell, 2 ‘reciever’ style 4.8 V packs (connected in series, red from one to black of the other and two wires left is the output), would give some flexibility in positioning ( eg one tucked in either side of the boat) I always think use the biggest battery you can carry in a model rather than carry lead ballast. The bigger the capacity ( more mAh ) gives longer sailing time. Again according to Electronize data sheet for your motor any voltage over 9v with your prop would load the motor above its design max continuous current (this would cause the motor to overheat). At max design current for each 1000 mAH battery capacity you should get about 1 hour sailing although you will get full speed for roughly half of this time, dependant on age of battery etc.

Good luck with the model

Telstar