Vosper RAF Fire Boat RC Stuff

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Thanks Dodgy

That's about what I paid for my second RX but they are now £15.90 + £1.57 delivery.

I'll check that source next time I need one.

Tim

[Peter Brown 15Participant @peterbrown15]

I think to begin with I will go with the slightly cheaper RC set. I've taken out the motor, the mounting for it was well rusted but the motor does run with a bit of coaxing. I think I will replace it with a new motor and mounting for £11. The motor thread was attached to a clamp and a cv type joint. The rudder seems large for the boat but this may be normal. The only thing I'm not sure of does the rudder clamp on to a small rod underneath the stern, looks like a split pin.

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

So many things to consider – will just one transmitter do the job? For a permanent solo sailor, probably. If it is thought that more than one boat will be operated at the same time, you need that many transmitters.

Then there is the question of finding the sweet spot of price, quality and usability. If a transmitter is going to be bound to a bunch of receivers, there is a strong incentive to find one with low cost receivers. Looking so far, the lowest cost receivers seem to be for relatively high price transmitters. It does make you appreciate the time not long ago when there was almost universal compatibility between transmitters and receivers, and you just needed to remember where you had put your box of crystals. Even if some present day 6 channel receivers are about the same price as a pair of 40MHz Xtals used to be.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Malcolm Frary on 03/08/2017 20:03:24:

So many things to consider – will just one transmitter do the job? For a permanent solo sailor, probably. If it is thought that more than one boat will be operated at the same time, you need that many transmitters.

Then there is the question of finding the sweet spot of price, quality and usability. If a transmitter is going to be bound to a bunch of receivers, there is a strong incentive to find one with low cost receivers. Looking so far, the lowest cost receivers seem to be for relatively high price transmitters. It does make you appreciate the time not long ago when there was almost universal compatibility between transmitters and receivers, and you just needed to remember where you had put your box of crystals. Even if some present day 6 channel receivers are about the same price as a pair of 40MHz Xtals used to be.

Radiolink transmitters are cheap, and their receivers go from £7 up to about £15… you can pay more if you want to… **LINK**

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Peter

The 6 channel Flysky I6 and the Turnigy IA6 are the same with different badges.

They handle up to 20 models with different setups and names for each model.

You only buy extra receivers as required.

The servos are sold separate, I buy 4.5KG ones as they are only a few bucks more, but, work well on large boats.

The mode of the radio is per IC planes and heli's throttle with NO CENTERING.

AS ESCs in boats require centering for forward and reverse, keep this in mind !!!

You can get the centering spring kit from banggood as to the radio.

Checkout Banggood and Hobbyking for prices!!!

I have not had a problem with Hobbyking gear or their service, only with one of the couriers who still delivered a parcel that was so damaged that Hobbyking replaced the lot.

A very twisted Lipo battery, a missing motor and a 100Amp ESC which look like it was hit by a 2 pound hammer.

Harry

[Peter Brown 15Participant @peterbrown15]

Great, I've bought most of the components suggested and waiting for them to arrive. I want some advice about the rudder. I've got a small rod which opens up like a split pin. Am I right in assuming the rudder clamps on to this. The old rudder does appear very oversized in comparison to the boat.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

A picture is worth a thousand words!

Are you talking about the way the rudder shaft is connected to the blade? This is usually done by cutting a slot in the shaft and soldering or brazing the blade into it. Has your blade fallen out of the shaft? If so, you will need to re-solder it, or join it some other way. Here is an example of a rudder blade held in with pins: **LINK**

Or you could buy a new one – **LINK**

Rudder size depends on how much force you want. Big boats get big rudders! If a boat is expected to move fast, it will need a smaller rudder than a slow one…

[Peter Brown 15Participant @peterbrown15]

Hi the blade and shaft are intact as in the links provided. How is the shaft attached to the boat.

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Peter

The rudder on my boat is 70mm long and 45mm wide.

The silicon fuel tubing is for safety, if the operating arm comes off and to stop the rudder dropping into the water.

I am adding a pic of the rudder setup on by SG&K Runabout to give you an idea.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Peter. Not sure what you mean there. The rudder shaft sticks up in the tube at the stern, the end of the shaft in the boat has the tiller on it, and this is connected to the servo arm by wire.

​The wire can be thick-ish, to fit the tiller holes, or a bit thinner but sleeved in a plastic sheath to stop it kinking. I find ordinary garden wire of 1.5mm or so to be perfectly good.

​A simple double bend at the ends of the wire will suffice to keep the wire attached to the arms, but Harry`s example has deluxe swivelling screwed connectors, or alternatively a simple bend in the wire and the use of a quick-link keeper.

​various alternatives, see >>

​Ashley

**LINK**

[Peter Brown 15Participant @peterbrown15]

If I look at the underneath of my Vosper there is a single shaft/pin. This is rotated by the servo see my second photo, I can only guess that the rudder is clamped to this protruding shaft.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Ah ha. You mean that there is a rudder shaft in place, it just does not have a rudder blade on it??? Ashley

[Peter Brown 15Participant @peterbrown15]

Ashley that's it, see drawing

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

OK. This is the rudder SHAFT.

​You really need to take this pin/shaft out of the boat and solder a brass blade on to it (assuming it is brass. If it isn't brass, you should be able to find brass rod of the same size). Slit the rod for 10mm and cut a brass blade, insert, solder. A junior hacksaw blade cuts a slot of the right thickness (as it were) of the brass sheet you will need.

​Rudder shape does not matter too much, see the commercial items or indeed Harry`s one. make it a bit big and you can cut it down afterwards.

​If you cannot remove the shaft, then an alternative would be to get a grub-screwed brass collar to fit the shaft (doesn't matter if its a tiny bit oversize) and solder a Ruder to this. A notch cut in the rudder to fit over the collar is the way to go. The collar with rudder can then be slipped on the shaft and tightened up.

Ashley

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Peter Brown 15 on 04/08/2017 09:05:31:

Hi the blade and shaft are intact as in the links provided. How is the shaft attached to the boat.

 

Um? Are you now saying that they are separate (which was what I originally thought)? That is what I meant when I said that the blade might have fallen out of the shaft. A picture of what you have would be useful. Here is a typical model boat rudder – **LINK**

Model boat rudders are usually a brass shaft, about 4mm wide, with a 1mm slot cut in one end. Into this slot, a bit of brass sheet is soldered. This unit is the shaft and blade.

At the other end of the shaft, there is a clamp with an arm on it. This is the tiller. You connect it to the rudder servo using a link.

The rudder shaft runs in a 'shaft tube'. This is a tube going through the bottom of the boat, and fastened securely to the hull so that no water can come in. It can either be bolted on, or glued – the important ting is that it is high enough to stop water seeping up it – so the top end should be above the waterline. This may help – **LINK**

 

Rudder blades for small boats can just be attached using soft solder. If yours has failed, you will probably see some solder remains on the shaft and the blade. Just reassemble, add a bit of flux and some more solder and heat over a gas ring to reattach.  

If the boat is bigger, soft soldering may not be strong enough, and you should use 'hard', or 'silver' solder, with a bit more heat. Alternatively, you can pin the blade, as is done in the links I showed you.

 

 

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 04/08/2017 10:47:28

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

On the original plans of the Vosper Crash Tender the rudder is 72mm long by 52mm wide.

The brush motor is a Graupner 900 12 volt with a Graupner 5060 2 blade prop( in new terms 50mm x 1.2 pitch).

I will zip down to the shed and get a few pics.

Harry

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

Pics as promised !!

Harry

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

The Crash Tender looks like an Aerokits model. They came in two different sizes – about 36" and 48", as I recall. Have we sorted out which size this is? Because the rudder sizes will be different. Though, as I understand it, he already has the original rudder blade….

Sizes do not have to be absolutely precise. To replace a 72mm X 52mm rudder, this should be fine – **LINK**

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by harry smith 1 on 04/08/2017 10:57:03:

Hi All

Pics as promised !!

Harry

I like the prop-shaft! How is the skeg connected to the tube?

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Dodgy

I have no idea it was in the boat, I only replaced the bearing and drive shaft.

But on my Precedent Huntsman my go to mate made the skeg from brass flat and a piece of tube(silver soldered) that fitted over 8mm tubing.

He also made a Teflon and brass bearing to fit the 8mm tubing.

Harry

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Peter

The X Large rudder from dodgy's link would be OK and the pushrod kit at the top would work well.

Harry

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Peter

WE have not ask what size is the boat as I am talking about the 46" model as to the small one which is about 34-34"?

Harry

[Peter Brown 15Participant @peterbrown15]

Hi

It's the 36" version. The existing rudder shaft has a split rod at the tip which I guess is where a rudder was attached and soldered. If can replace this with a new rudder and shaft this would save me having to solder a new one. The rudder and shaft unit that came with the Vosper looks too large to fit and was possibly from it's bigger brother or another boat. If you can point me in the direction(Link) of new rudder and shaft that will fit my aerokit it would be much appreciated. Peter

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

For a 36" boat, I would guess that a rudder about 50mm long would be fine. The link I gave you earlier has some standard sizes, at around £6. If you phone these people and have a chat, I am sure they will advise you well – they are a reputable model boat company – **LINK** I would suggest the 'medium' one on that page…

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 04/08/2017 12:38:54

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Peter

The rudder on my 34" Sea Commander is 58mm long and 40 wide, this as no problem in turning.

In a 34-36" size boat I use a 3639-1100 or D3548/4 1100kv motor, 60 Amp ESC, 3S 5800 mah Lipo Battery and a 2 blade 40mm x 1.4 pitch prop but you can go up to a 50mm 1.2 pitch(5060) prop.

Harry

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