Vintage Gentleman’s Cruiser

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

How did you cut the slots so neatly?

By the way I also drew a launch version

 

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 22/07/2017 19:01:13

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Paul

They were easy to cut out…….Once marked out and a few drill holes, followed by a crisp sand paper block

Job done

I was quite surprised how quickly the prop shaft was made and installed yesterday

I now need the timing pulley's and belts……..Pity they are so expensive

But 20,000 rpm calls for some high tech pulley's

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

More prop shaft progress

Got the shafts down to a pleasing angle, although not as shallow as Paul`s layout

The deciding factor, was the available space for the Timing belt pulley's, inside the hull

Only have enough room for 20 mm dia pulley's………And those only by a stroke of luck!

Now for the Rudder Hatch etc

Bob

Edited By Bob Abell on 23/07/2017 09:31:58

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

A slight change in angle?

From looking at your photos it looks like 10deg ……….thats a BIG change from the designed angle of 4deg.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Excuse me, Mr Thomason, if you don`t mind?

What`s that you say?………10 Degrees?…………..We`ll do a check

Take a look at this photo, my Boy

I`ve packed up the hull, so that the deck edge level

I`ve marked two spots at 12" apart and made a gauge to span the keel, but rest on the tubes

First position…………..Height measures……6 3/4"

Second position…….Height measures…….5 7/8"

Angle of Dangle in 12" works out at just less than ………..6 Degrees

Sorry Paul, old chap……….I only went through the exercise, out of curiosity

You are being misled by the sloping surface of the hull bottom?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Captain Bob

The sloping surface has no bearing [sic] on the angle as I only had the oblique angle photos as a reference and any guesstimate of the true angle would be taken from the keel.

However an accurate measurement from the C/L at the prop directly down to the hull would be sufficient to verify your curiosity.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

I assume 6 degrees is OK?

Found a Timing Belt of the correct width and pitch, but a little too long at 2 1/4" centres

Made up a couple of 20mm pulleys to see how they look in position

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Even better

The motors fit nicely on the side walls

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Very novel mount position but you might need to beef up the coaming to take the extra load.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Paul

I've extended the motor base down to the hull bottom and fits in nicely

Hoping to order the pulley drives today

How's this for a new method of securing the rudder blade to the shaft?

It's not scale, but I like the cleanliness of it

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Good old Victorian engineering….cast iron rudder post, wrought iron rivets and heavy duty brass blade…..what's not to like?

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Galvanic reaction perhaps?

Colin

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Lads……..I knew you`d like them

You want to feel the bite on the blade, when I tighten up the bottom nut……..Ooooooo!

Shear satisfaction guaranteed

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Chaps

The completed Rudder Assemblies

These would even look nice on the mantlepiece?

It`s the unusual facets of the build, such as these beauties, that keeps me from getting bored

Not forgetting the viewing members encouragement of course

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob. If it were not for the PLASTIC cogs on top, then yes, the mantelpiece it would be.

Why the nut in the middle of the rudder??

Colin. Obviously Bob will use a sacrificial anode, although most of those were sacrificed years ago round here..

Ashley

Edited By ashley needham on 25/07/2017 08:59:48

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Ashley

You obviously don`t understand the Engineering Logic of the Rudder Blade assembly?

The lower nut tightens the blade against the inner nut…..ie…..No soldering required

Clever or wot?

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Ah I see now.. Yes, clever. I love the rivets. Thank you Bob.

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Aligning the rudders

Because the hull floor slopes in all directions, the Rudder Shafts being are set up, square with the deck

Then Mr P38 takes over

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

To the Chief Engineer.

Some questions that Kevin might be to nervous to ask.

How have you locked the lower nut in position so that it can't fall off and loose the rudder/

Is that a brass ferrule between the rudder blade and fancy wooden housing?

As you are using that fancy wooden housing will you be lubricating it with tallow?

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Morning Paul

I do like these a technical questions

First question………Both nuts are locked up solid

If the nut fell off, the blade is still captivated by the trapped nut

To prevent loosing the rudder, I've threaded the top end and used more nuts for peace of mind

Next question……..The ferrule is actually the full length bush, protruding thru the fancy housing

Next question

Tallow?……..Do you mean……Candle Wax?

We used to use Tallow in the factory for alsorts of uses………Tapping, lathe centres etc, we used to call it Dog Fat

It was most foul and smelt rancid

I think I'll be using some of that Magic propshaft grease actually

Bob

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Bob

Good work as usual for your favourite type of hull, any reason why the motors are so far forward ? looks from an earlier picture you could be swinging a pair of 3" props with that gap under the hull ?

Regards Ray

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I know that you old boys like to keep craft secrets but as technical answers go yours is a useful as a glass hammer. Kevin might might want to know how you get the 'trapped' nut in half way up the shaft? because the rudder fits very snugly around the rudder post and is to narrow to allow the nut to 'run' up the thread. I know that you old timers have some clever tricks but Kevin might think that you have a magic wand instead of a spanner.

Used to use tallow in plumbing when jointing lead pipes together and I still remember the smell, the old plumber that I served my time with used to cook bacon in tallow.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Kevin
When fitting a nut to a shaft there are two options: turning the nut while holding the shaft steady, or turning the shaft while holding the nut. In this case the latter would seem to be appropriate. Hold the "trapped" nut in place and thread the shaft down through the rudder, spinning it in your fingers to run the thread down through the nut and out through the bottom of the rudder blade. This nut does not have to be turned in order to tighten it against the rudder; the tightening of the lower nut will take care of that.

(Some times it's like talking to a puppy on here….)

DM

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Paul

Dave M has beaten me to it

He is quite right……..Put the nut in the slot and wind the shaft through it

Ray…..The little red props are only there for effect

Will be getting larger props on my next visit to Haydock, in August

Technical question for Paul………Your obsession for zero degrees prop shaft inclination etc……..Seems to be flawed?

With a steeper angle, like say 30 degrees, the prop would try and lift the hull out of the water…….and get it on the plane ?……….eh?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

With a steeper angle the prop wants to lift the rear of the boat out of the water and with a steep angle the prop also has to be significantly larger to compensate for the reduced angle of attack.

Paul

[Author]

Posts