Vintage Gentleman’s Cruiser

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dear All

This is a note for all of those members who are following this project and wish to progressively build their own version as the design develops. The keel and frame drawings are nearing completion and after checking I will be emailing them out to you (don't forget that I will need your email address) in PDF format.

If anybody else would like to receive these drawings (for free) please contact me by private message.

Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dear All

The drawings for the vintage cruiser 'Lady Jane' have reached the point where construction can begin.

So in the true tradition of all 'Blue Peter' builds we will start at the beginning and explain the process in easy to understand step by step sections (just so the hard of thinking hover van builder can keep up)

The drawings and instructions are sent by email in easily printed PDF format……this means that the recipient doesn't have to do anything fancy or open the files with any specialist software ….in fact all you need is an email address, a computer with Adobe Reader and a standard A4 printer.

The drawings are also 1:1 scale templates and all that the reciepiant need do is print them.

The larger sections of the model are spread across a few pages and when printed they look like these below.

The printed sheets have margins and location marks so the trimming of the sheets is easy.

Simply cut along the margin line on one side of each sheet.

And glue the sections together

In this way large sections of the drawing can easily be printed and assembled.

Then the full size templates can be cut out ready for transferring to timber ready for cutting out.

Paul

 

Edited By Paul T on 30/06/2014 15:40:09

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

One of the problems that I have with plywood (especially the cheap stuff from the DIY superstore) is splintering when cutting.

I prefer to use a 110v Bosch jigsaw to cut out the pieces but the upwards cutting blades can cause a lot of splintering on plywood, the same effect can easily happen when using a bandsaw.

Incidentally I use a cheap Power Craft bandsaw that I picked up brand new from Aldi for £20, the machine is great but the blade that came with it was rubbish. I bought a decent blade for under £10 and now have a first class bandsaw that will happily chomp through plywood all daylong.

After sorting out the templates to use the least amount plywood

I cover the edge of the templates with masking tape.

This prevents the wood from splintering.

Finally redefine the edges of the templates with a black pen, not only does this highlight the cutting line it also ensures the masking tape is firmly stuck down.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

I would like a copy of the plans, please……As I like the idea of the ABELL drive being incorporated and it looks an interesting model of yesteryear?

Thinking of using the MFA 700 motors etc

I agree that the 36" version is more practical compared to the original five footer

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dear All

I was all set to start uploading the drawings to the membership that have requested them when my machine suffered an electronic embolism and now Hotmail refuses to accept any attachments.

I have sent for the 20lb hammer and should have normal service resumed soon.

Meanwhile if anyone else would like a set of drawings just pm me your email address and I will add you to the list.

Paul

[lnvisiblemanParticipant @lnvisibleman]

Posted by Paul T on 01/07/2014 15:06:16

I have sent for the 20lb hammer and should have normal service resumed soon.

Paul

Paul

I have heard if kilobytes – kB

and megabytes – mB

even gigabytes – gB and terabytes – tB.

Can you enlighten me regarding the value of lB ?

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Can you enlighten me regarding the value of lB ………Laptop Basher

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Nah, he got it wrong…he meant Oz. Its magic. And much better than gm, which is a foreign hammer value.

Ashley

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

It must mean I'm getting old, but it's scary to think that there will actually be people out there who are really not aware of the meaning of "lb" as a unit of weight. Or "oz" either, for that matter.

Peter.

Edited By Peter Fitness on 02/07/2014 07:56:31

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Shop floor to design department

Can we not design a leakproof seal at the prop end of the propshaft?

I was thinking of a brass washer held against the tube end by a short compression spring?

Or a compression spring at the motor end doing a similar job?

Or as Ashley suggests……A water sump to catch the drips and contain them?

In the case of Lady Fane, we could have a motorised water pump?……You have plenty of spare channels on your new trannies?

While we are feeling inventive…..How about operating windscreen wipers?

Not forgetting the animated driver….SloMo style?

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

I always thought that a sort of packing gland arrangement might work, a simple thread on the end of the tube, some greasy felt and a screw on cap. Or how about simply a longer nylon bearing either end??

Peter, now theres a man who knows about Oz !

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Ashley

There was a very interesting prog an the telly this afternoon, you would have enjoyed it

It was all about the Russion Ecroplans etc

They came up with some crazy ideas for it,

Just remembered a gland seal that I sketched a few years ago

Hope I can find it?

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Found it….

Commercial prop shafts would need the bush replacing and a threaded section adding

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Bob

I am sure that we can design a leak proof prop tube in fact we sketched up a few a couple of years ago. But does this mean that all of the commercially available tubes have inherent leakage problems.

Water sump for a leak?? its not a concept that I am familiar with but I will google it and see.lol

I can design the micro windscreen wipers but you will have to build them, an animated skipper would look good though.

Paul

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

I doubt if there is any such thing as a leakproof tube. Full size ships have to cope with a degree of leakage so models are no different. Yachts have stuffing boxes which restrict the leakage but don't stop it altogether.

If you have a washer in front of the prop and its locknut that presses against the outboard end of the tube then when the model is travelling forward this will seal off almost all water entry. Going astern can let a bit of water in, (especially if the inboard end of the tube is below the waterline), but you can have another washer at the inboard end if everything is adjusted correctly. Any drops that make it through the tube can be contained by fitting a mini dam on the bottom of the hull fore and aft of the inboard end of the tube.

Just normal practice really.

Colin

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Colin

I think the water sump idea is the way to go

It would be very easy to empty too

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Shop floor to Dr Do

Sorted out the drive chain for the ABELL drive unit…….And the price is right too!

Hobbies plastic chain and sprockets!

Tested it to 20,000 rpm with the Dremel Trio…..No problem

We`ve now got an economical solution

Will make one up and fit it in Ellie………If there`s room…..Using the MFA 700 motors

What an exciting project?

Bob

[lnvisiblemanParticipant @lnvisibleman]

Bob

I've tried to fing those chains and sprokets on hobbies site but had no luck.

Do you have a link for them ?

Mike

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Mike

This is not the old Hobbies……..but Hobby`s

Here is the link….

**LINK**

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I like the chain better than the belt but, not ever having used these plastic chains before, will it need some kind of tensioner to keep the links tight?

There is plenty of room in Ellie to accommodate your drive and the MFAs but it will put more weight at the front of the boat so you might have to move the batteries further toward the stern (or chuck some lead into the rudder servo compartment)

The only downside is having all of that power going through a maximum 30mm dia prop as most of it will be wasted but the experiment is well worth doing just to prove that the Abell Drive works.

Looking forward to seeing the results on your Sunday sail.(no pressure then)

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 03/07/2014 14:21:40

[curlyParticipant @curly]

Hi all

I lived on a narrow boat for twelve years, the way we stopped water ingress from the stern gland, was to have a stuffing gland. The packing for this gland was fine cotton rope and grease, tighten the gland down until it crushes the wadding, then back it off a small way, on the stern there was a grease nipple. We grease the shaft once a day before moving. Maybe three drops a day. So with a model boat no problem. Don't tighten the gland nut to tight. Hope this helps.

Curly

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Curly

We will bear that in mind, when we get to that stage

At the moment, we are on our the latest whim…..The Abell motor drive, which is just an interesting novelty that needs to be built and tested for feasibility. It is just for visual effect really, to make the simple motor drive look more interesting for old fashioned launches etc

Here are some of the components (Not all of `em!)

The problem with the plastic chains, is that the hub is only bonded to the gear wheel by a coarse knurl and needs a neat positive drive

Needs a Eureka Moment at the moment!……….I can feel one coming on!

Bob

[curlyParticipant @curly]

Hi Bob.

The old way would be to silver solder a tab on to the boss, as you can see on the centre gear, put grub screws in the boss, to save space. You can also skim the boss off the gear, as you can see I'm old school in my ways.

Dave

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Curly

The small pinions don't seem to be suitable, due to lack of scope

I need a cheap source of timing belt

Now Paul….Look what I,'ve found!

Your model from yesteryear, with a pedigree too!

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dave

I like the grub screw option as it reduces the non concentric on the motor.

Bob

It just goes to show that these cruisers have a timeless design of grace and quality….but where is the dog food that you refer to?

Paul

 

Edited By Paul T on 04/07/2014 13:33:21

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