Vintage Gentleman’s Cruiser

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Bob,

I have to say I agree with Diede here. If you want to use a transmitter with two sticks and you dont want differential operation of the motors then by all means bolt the sticks together. However then use a Y lead to supply both ESCs from a single throttle channel so they both see exactly the same signal. Even if you forget to bolt the sticks together at some point in the future it wont matter since one of the throttle sticks wont be doing anything.

But its your model so……..

Gareth

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Gareth

The tranny is an F14 and is provided with a built in screw for bolting the sticks together

But the problem is still with us……..At the zero position

The zero must be zero for both ESC's….or else

Bob

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Bob,

I agree both ESC's should have a common zero setting. If you use a Y lead from one of the throttle channels both ESCs will get the same signal. You then set the neutral, max forward and max reverse positions using the setting buttons on the ESCs as I explained to you at Lyme Park (assuming you are using a pair of Mtroniks controllers).

Gareth

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Just as I thought

Many thanks Gareth

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dear All

Getting away from Bobs problems with his AbellDrive we will stagger back to the theme of this thread and hopefully, for the members who have requested the drawings, get on with the build.

The first and possibly most important task is to locate a suitable building board for this project, the building board must be large enough to accommodate the layout schematic (drawing no 00)be flat, level and rigid enough not to bend or warp during the build.

The layout drawing shows the centre line and full extent of each frame so all you have to do is position each part over its corresponding location.

I have started the build from the Transom but it doesn't really matter which end you start from.

Each of the frames is fixed to the building board with a batten (drilled and screwed to both the frame and building board) using the centre line for guidance.

Paul

 

 

 

 

Edited By Paul T on 11/07/2014 15:29:17

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Paul. Well done in getting back to the very root of this thread!! I like kitchen worktop to build on (lengths that is, not THE kitchen worktop) very rigid.

For a few things I have actually GLUED the supports or whatever on the surface with a hot glue gun and simply scraped it clean afterwards.

Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Ashley

A glue gun would be ideal for smaller or light weight items but I wouldn't recommend it for my designs as sometimes the parts of the model have to be pulled together with ratchet straps and heavy duty clamps so the frame has to be securely fixed to the building board.

Using a ratchet strap is a common occurrence when I use 3mm ply for the hull skin.

Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Continuing the build

Positioning Frame 9

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Paul, I was taken back a bit there . I always thought a ratchet strap was an item of personal clothing.

Yes, was only giving a for-instance. Obviously you work with Brunellian sized boats and a more substantial approach is needed

Ashley

[Amy jane SeptemberParticipant @amyjaneseptember49770]

I rather enjoy my ratchet strap……

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Would it not be a nice civilised idea, using 12mm x 3mm planking instead?

Rather than the ball and chain method?

As an alternative to the frame base strips/feet, I prefer the single central spine method as used for the Brutus build?

Just a suggestion

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob. Trevor used 4mm x 15mm ply planks for his corvette and we were pleasantly suprised as to how flexible they were once cut. Lot of mess though,ply does not cut nicely into thin strips but it does not matter much once covered in glass tissue and resin.

AmyJ. I have had a vision…

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

I have fitted the twin motor drive in Ellie as a test bed…..The chain is not fitted yet

The ESC`s are set at zero and max speed, using identical procedures, independently on each motor

A true identical equal zero on each stick is not clearly defined…..But I think the low voltage present at the zero position may not be a problem?

Will not power up with the chain attached just yet,in case someone has a comment to make

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Just powered up with the chain attached and it ran as sweet as a nut!

Whatever that means?

On switch on, one motor runs quite normally, but the power is really evident on second motor start up, which is nice to witness

I like it

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Captain Courageous

I am really glad to hear of the successful outcome to your motor experiment and I look forward to a future where the Abell Drive is a common sight in model boats.

Paul

btw Lady Jane will be planked and not skinned.

[lnvisiblemanParticipant @lnvisibleman]

btw Lady Jane will be planked and not skinned.

OH HECK !!!

I've never planked a model before. This could be fun, or a disaster.

Mike

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Mike

Don't worry as Lady Jane has been designed with ease of planking in mind, but for those who are impatient the hull can also be skinned with large panels.

Paul

[lnvisiblemanParticipant @lnvisibleman]

Paul

Ease of planking?

Is that like quantum physics for dummies ?

I'm game for a laugh so planks it will be, at least till it all goes pear shaped.

Mike

Edited By lnvisibleman on 12/07/2014 17:04:17

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Mike

Ease of planking?

It just means that there are no difficult curves to plank around…..in fact its so easy even Mr Needham could do it.(standard disclaimer applies)

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul

Have you released the keel yet?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Yes, the keel is on drawing 12 and is included in the pack that I emailed to you.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

My pack only showed the formers, which I've printed off

I'll have another look

I have a slight complaint…..Most of the formers fit an A4 sheet, but the title is on the next sheet and does seem a waste of paper?

Needs sorting?

Bob

[lnvisiblemanParticipant @lnvisibleman]

Can I suggest that the titles etc are put on the section of frame that will be discarded later in the build ?

Mike

Edited By lnvisibleman on 12/07/2014 18:36:16

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Bob

The beauty of the printable templates is that you don't have to print everything so where the template part is on one sheet simply print that sheet and leave the title box on the computer.

Mike

The reason for the way that the drawings are laid out is for clarity and ease of identification. i.e the title box is always in the bottom right hand corner. It avoids cluttering up the template part of the drawings.

Paul

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Mike. I have never planked anything before either. I cannot be bothered, this is the issue. I have had to use small strips not and then to affect tight curves and so on in some models. Trevor , with no prior plank-on-frame experience, made a 6 foot corvette for our D-Day thing, so it can be done

Mr Tompason thinks I cannot do it, i will prove him wrong, (but not yet).

Ashley

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