Prototype build of ELLIE

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Cutting the 6mm thick keel for the propshaft / tube is covered in the instructions on page 4 section 8 and the size / position of the keel cut out is shown on drawing 8.

The task of fitting the pre cut keel into the correct position is left to the builders own ingenuity.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Paul

Just keeping you on your toes!

This is the general appearance I`m hoping to create with "Slo Mo Cruiser"

Polished veneer….plenty of red paint…..Complex rudders with moveable airfoil….Impressive engine section

It seems a long way off at the moment

It would be interesting to hear of other ideas for the hull/superstructure combo, chaps?

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Bob

Sorry but I can't agree, mate. Just as a modern cruise ship looks like a block of flats on top of a ship's hull, the combination of a racing hydro top and a broads cruiser hull will look incongruous – if not to say just plain ridiculous. If I were you I'd find a different project. Ashley does 'silly' models properly; at least they look as if all the parts belong together!

I can't comment on the type of ESC you have used (unless the noise is a high-pitched whine) but if the noise is more of a vibration you may want to try replacing the central U/J of the coupling with a length of silicon tubing. I've just bought some for the couplings on Sea Spray. PM me your address if you want a short length of it to try.

More on my Sea Spray later – we've been away for 11 days and just got back this afternoon.

Dave M

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Welcome back grumpy, I presume that you had a nice time and judging by your returning comments a considerable bar bill.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Dave for your comments regarding my latest venture

I know it sounds and looks a little crazy, but at the moment, I`m building a twin motor powered hull which can have almost any type of superstructure

The SloMo top is already existing and is a simple job to adapt and fit on the new hull and have a little play

If it doesn`t work out, then I`ll try something else

I am having fun at the moment, building the project and that`s all that matters

As for the Ellie Cruiser, the motor is not running as fast as it should and sort of miss – fires on the water

I think it`s set up correctly…..Every expert in the club has had a go!

Green light on, going forward and red in reverse….both on, ticking over

The ESC is making a very high pitched whine and the motor sounds very noisy somehow

Thanks for the tubing offer, the coupling is ok

Bob

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

 

Just a picture of the framework, loosely assembled, prior to glueing

Built to the revised final drawings

The Breasthook area is new and fits OK

Edited By Bob Abell on 27/11/2013 18:10:39

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Bob
The whine is caused by the interaction of the high-frequency ESC and the motor brushes. There are only two effective cures:
1. Earplugs and/or
2. A different type of ESC.
Can't suggest a definite reason for any other motor noise if you're happy with the coupling and running gear alignment. Is the prop balanced? Motor and shaft bearings oiled? Mounting screws tight? Blah blah.
Not sure if both ESC lights should be on simultaneously – I've never had to resort to MTroniks as I've always had a source of ESCs closer to hand ;o) Maybe someone else could enlighten me/you as to the meaning of the lights…………………..
Dave M (back on dry land)

[curlyParticipant @curly]

Hi Bob

I run MTroniks ESC mid stick both lights, when running full chat there is only one light on. It depends witch way the wires are on the motor, if it's red or grean

Curly

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Dave and Curlly

Haven`t fitted any capacitors, could this make a difference?

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Haven`t fitted any capacitors, could this make a difference?

If it's with a 27MHz or 40MHz radio then yes, it's quite likely to cause a problem – but I can only bang on about suppressors for so long, can't I? "Misfiring" doesn't mean a lot with reference to a DC electric motor. It might imply a loose or faulty connection somewhere (e.g. inside that choc block….). Check all electrical connections for loose screws or whiskers of wire. Have you tried a different speed controller, Bob? They have been known to be faulty, even straight from the box.

DM

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dave

Whilst on the subject of suppressors it might be an opportune moment to explain what they are and what they do.

More to the point why don't they cause a short circuit when they are connected across the motor tabs, will one particular type or size fit all motors or is it a little more complicated than that, please bear in mind that I have only just started using electrickery to power my boats and that I find it all very confusing.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Shop floor to Drawing office

The breasthook looks a bit short, old chap?

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Paul

Ref your request for info on capacitors, I didn't want to flood Bob's thread with more tecchie stuff so I resurrected an older thread for the purpose. I'm sure you'll remember it.

Dave M

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The drawing is 100% accurate, I realise that it might look short but there is plenty of 'fat' in the stempost / keel to allow for shaping in preparation to receive the skins.

Dave

Oddly enough I did remember the suppressor thingies thread but I thought that raising the old chestnut here might be a nice welcome home question for you.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul

There won't be much stem left after dieting the stem!….Why should there be plenty of fat on the stem

It would be easier to build up the breast hook, to meet the stem!

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Have just seen DM`s compliment, or I take it to be a compliment on my creations. You have seen nothing yet!

Bob, I think the hull would be too tall for a racing type boat to be honest. a "gentlemans runabout" perhaps??

Could you slope the rear end in a bit (cant think of the term) , this would looka bit more "racy"

I see you are building away. Some ironmongery out the back would certainly increase the perceived length as would a projecting railing at the front bow.

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Ashley….At least you've not poo pooed the idea!

I still like the idea myself, so it's upward and onward!

There's always one of Paul's creations to fall back on if it doesn't work out

Bob the Optimist

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Ashley
Paul T would have me voted Mr World Grumpy every year. A compliment from me is thus (apparently) a rare and beautiful thing. Treasure it forever……………….

Bob
Pay no attention – it's only my opinion.
DM

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Special WIP picture for Geoff

Note deck former developed from deck pattern…..Better for handling and positioning than the back sawn curved strips

Question for the Drawing Office….What`s the idea with the step in the bottom edge of the keel, please?

Bob

ps…..No problem, Grumpy

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The step in the keel is to allow the skins to meet correctly, it was discussed during the build process along with references to how Les Rowel got over the problem.

 

Meanwhile here are some photos of the Red Leader version, its a bit rough at the moment but you can get the general idea.

Like I said its still a bit rough around the edges and far from completion but its coming together.

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 30/11/2013 16:33:13

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

I like it very much including the colour scheme. It looks very potent

I like the way you have staggered the motors too

Have you decided on the motors and battery yet?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Bob

I'm glad that you like it I have been experimenting with the colour mix to produce a matt paint with a sheen finish, there is still a bit of filling and rubbing down to do and change the temporary guns when the scale ones arrive from China.

The engines are 3 Graupner Speed 500e, coupled to the correct mixers and speed controllers (ACtion) I will be building my own battery packs out of C cells to sit between F5 & F6.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul

The step in former 1 is only about 1mm and this means that the curved stringer is only 1mm in parts!

Frightfully feeble for the skin to glue too?

If the stringer was a plywood cut out, the notch could be full depth?

See my last photo

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

We discussed this very question back in August, see page 13 of this thread, and my answer then is as follows.

 

Hello Bob

The reason behing the slot only being 2mm is to allow for shaping the stringer, the sketch below shows a section of Frame 1 and better explains what I mean.

The frame section is shown upside down and the blue dashed line indicates the extended line of the hull, the black dashed box show the stringer before shaping.

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 02/12/2013 15:03:27

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dear All

From now until Christmas the full set of drawings and instructions for the Ellie range will be available on CD.

A minimum donation of £12.00 will include free p&p to mainland UK (overseas buyers please email me at [email protected] for postage costs.

Paul

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