Prototype build of ELLIE

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Returning back to the subject of sharpening the plane's blade, I find a honing guide a useful addition to the tool kit, in keeping the blade cutting angle correct. Very easy to use, not too expensive and also suitable to keep chisel blades sharp. Easily found on the internet, ebay and tuition clips available.

Tony.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Tony

Sharpening a plane blade is very interesting and also very technical

Some experts use Aluminium Oxide sheets of all grades…up to 2000 grit for some reason on a plate glass backing

The biggest breakthrough is the process of removing the back burr after sharpening

They rest the back end of the blade on a steel rule and the burr is removed with the blade pointing down minutely….ie….Not using the full flat face of the blade

And if you can understand that….You're a better man than I am!

They test the quality of sharpness by shaving the hairs off the arm!

Bob

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

Bob and Paul, it's probably not visible in the photos of my Broads cruiser, but I did decide to plank the deck, on a 1.5mm ply sub deck. I don't know if the full size boats had planked decks or not, but as mine is freelance I decided to use modeller's licence and plank it anyway. I'm very happy with the result.

Peter.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Peter

I don`t like painted decks or drawn on simulated planking with the ply grain showing in the background

So it`s got to be planked and varnished, I may paint the hull, bright red and call it….

…..RED LEADER…….Should be a striking advert for the project!

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Alan

I designed the model to have ply all the way to the bow in order to maintain the integrity of the hull shape.

As the ply is fixed to the frames it is pulled into the correct shape and forms the long smooth curve which can be seen from Bobs photos.

To use a block to form the bow would have interrupted the 'flow' of the hull by introducing a vertical joint at a critical point.

The ply also gives the hull considerable strength around the bow and can absorb the occasional impact without damage where a balsa block would show the dents and bumps of every mishap.

Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

A real teak deck would look great against deep red hull.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Morning Paul

Nice to see you back in action, so early in the morning!

I like the colour scheme idea very much, but will you accept Mahogany in place of Teak?

I could nick a plank off Llandudno Pier if it's really necessary?…..lol

Been looking for these legendary Johnson motors, lately, but haven't come across any

It's time to gather the gear together now. Have you any special requirement?

Shopaholic

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I have no special requirements for the motors, speed controllers or propellers, I wrote Johnson motors on the basic specification simply because they are a very common motor, you could equally well use MFA or Mabuchi.

My only requirement is the 20inch prop tubes/shafts.

Ultimately the choice of equipment is up to the builder and whatever gear they might have spare, but rest assured that the final detailed instructions will specify a more precise set of requirements purely for the beginners.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

There yer go again!

What`s a 20" prop tube?

Overall length?……… Or the tube only?

Bob……..Confused dot com

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

After the last confusion regarding propshafts I decided to specify as per the following from Cornwall Model Boats.

Now every one can check up on the exact specification.

Stainless Steel 20 Inch Long Tube 5mm Fine Line Threaded Propshaft, Tube Diameter: 8mm. Part no C5370

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Now we are getting somewhere!

Here`s the prop shaft link……

**LINK**

Bob…..Stores

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Stores to Drawing office

Now that the drive has been upgraded to 45mm prop, the 550 motors are a bit too small

We need a motor and prop selecting and a suitable battery for the Newbies benefit

Bob…….Stores

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The change of prop spec was simply to give the builders a wider choice of prop and motor combinations when building the higher speed versions of the design so a 550 / 30mm prop mix can still be used for the cabin cruiser.

One of the design principals was to produce a model where the builder had the widest possiable choice of equipment and hopefully use motors etc that they might already have.

Paul

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

I can only agree that a 500 size mounting gives a very wide choice of motor. I shouldnt think that the builder of this vessel will be doing so to make a speedboat and so a 550/600 should be perfectly adequate. I should think a hot 600 and 35mm prop would make this go quite well in any event.

A 550 will easily drive a 40mm prop and i shouild think will be ok on a 45mm. I have 5 blade 40mm props on the Manchester and on 12v the 550`s do not even get warm.

NOT keen on the fineline shafts. Too little shaft/tube clearance for me, especially on a long run like this, even at 5mm. PERSONALLY I would use a "standard" brass tube/nylon bearing setup.

Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Ashley

A standard prop shaft would be fine as the requirements are that the units be 20 inches long and 8mm diameter.

If, like you the builder has a disliking for a particular piece of equipment they will have the option of using the basic requirements as a basis to spec something else.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Wood shop to Drawing office

Got a complant from the bandsaw dept!

George the bandsaw chappie says that the gap between the mirrored cabin side walls is too narrow!

Followed by a few choice words!

Sorry, Red Leader, but I agree with George

Bob interdepartmental co-ordinator

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Drawing office to Wood Shop

How thick is the bandsaw blade?

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Wood shop to Top Shop

I'd say a fresh wood cutting blade would be 1.5mm wide

Doesn't matter anyway, as we will be cutting both cabin sides at the same time!

Bob ….Lateral thinker

.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Before doing much more on the deck hatch, I`ve decided to make the cabin assembly, in case something crops up?

I`ve marked out one side of the cabin wall and clamped a second piece of ply to it

The windows require cutting out with great care. I alway`s drill the corners out first, followed by the bulk with my new found toy….the Dremel Trio and profile cutting drill

The openings are then attacked with the coarse grit rotary sander….Followed by the sanding block

It`s most important to get the windows perfectly in line and exact, as poorly cut windows spoil the model completely!

A dust mask is recommended

Bob

Forgot to mention…..I`ve opted for 1.5mm ply for the cabin, as my poor quality 4mm ply would not be suitable for cutting the windows out, the wood is far too crumbly and soft

Edited By Bob Abell on 05/09/2013 09:33:37

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello chaps and Ladies?…….I wonder?

Work in progress

This is quite a long painstaking tricky job actually and will test the patience of the budding tyro!……..and anybody else for that matter!

The slender section has a temporary support strip for security

The window cutouts are nearly done, but will be finalised when the cabin is fully assembled

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Shop floor to Drawing office……

Er………….We seem to be a little short on cabin assembly drawings?

Shall I invent it and then you draw it?

For starters…..Curved roof beams to maintain the curves and a dummy floor to glue the side walls to, somethig to prevent the cabin from breaking in the middle, all in all something strong!

Bob……Shop floor temp design team

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Drawings sent by email.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Your drawings recieved……..Thank you

Need more frames for rear section?…..eh?

How about some breadhook type floors to maintain shape etc?

The walls coloured red……Is this for cabin strength?

Think we need one of your 3D Isometric drawings, as a Newbie would struggle?

Shop floor staff are struggling at the moment!

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Oh I do like a challenge!

The cabin wall is placed roughly in position to study where the bulkheads go!

Paul…..I can see where the bulkheads go, but we need a base profile or something, to obtain the cabin wall curves……..Even though the hatch combing would support it……Somehow

I`m glad I didn`t finish off the hatch combing………Serious adjustment required!

Everything is in a state of flux at the moment!

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Captain Bob

Glad that the drawings arrived ok, you will see that there are superstructure height bulkheads in both the forward and rear cabins, these are to maintain the shape of the cabin roof and provide strength in the midpoints of the superstructure.

I note that you have been having some trouble with the cabin walls splitting at the narrow point. I didn't have this trouble as the 4mm ply provided the necessary strength however I appreciate that 1.5mm is a lot easier to work with so I am going to look at that part of the design again to see if we can utilise a thinner ply.

Paul

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