Prototype build of ELLIE

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The stand is perfect for the model and far better than the one I have drawn so if you don't mind I will copy yours, could you send me a set of dims so that I can get it right.

The hull looks super now the building extensions have been removed and hopefully everything is all plumb and square.

The top floor sends its heartfelt thanks for doing such a first rate job.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

Will do it on CAD tomorrow…..I need the practice these days

Clockin` off the job now

G`nite….P

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob (tomorrow) Looks good.

I was worried a bit that bending the thick(ish) ply around the bow formers was a bit…difficult.. and may be a hidden minus with what is otherwise a simple plan?

Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Bob

It will be nice to see your CAD skills in action.

Hello Ashley

Bobs choice of ply was far thinner than specified and in retrospect he made the right choice, but I'm not sure that hardboard would have survived such rigorous treatment.

Paul

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

I can only disagree, as hardboard would become quite pliable when wetted, and cope EASILY with the curvature .

Ashley

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Could you remind me how thick the skin is?? I have just reread the posts from the beginning but lost the will to live at P14.

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ashley

The skin thickness is 1.5mm….That's 1/16" in real money

Hardboard?……That's as bad as using indoor PVA…..If not worse!

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ashley

The skin thickness is 1.5mm….That's 1/16" in real money

Hardboard?……That's as bad as using indoor PVA…..If not worse!

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dear All

This is a good time to explain to those who are a little confused about the references to hardboard and indoor PVA.

Both Ashley and Bob as experienced model builders have preferences for using different materials some of which might seem odd to any newcomer.

For example interior PVA which isn't waterproof and dissolves when exposed to moisture, Bob uses this in the full knowledge of its shortcomings and compensates for them by correctly sealing the glued areas with paint or varnish.

Hardboard becomes soft when exposed to moisture and Ashley uses this knowledge to form hardboard into tight hull shapes after which he fully dries the material before sealing it to prevent any further changes.

Both non waterproof glue and hardboard are perfectly suitable materials when used by experienced modellers.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Chaps

We agree with the comments made by Paul, regarding Indoor PVA and the humble hardboard

But, here`s a word of warning……Models made with these materials should not be left in the garage over winter!

The materials will certainly soften in time

Got to admit though, I`ve have left models over winter and they have come to no harm!

If you value your model……Take them indoors

Bob

Edited By Bob Abell on 29/08/2013 08:02:15

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

I use Aliphatic Resin glue for all wood-wood joints. It ain't cheap if you buy the small bottle but 500ml is about the same price as the equivalent bottle of EvoStick Waterproof PVA (Blue bottle). It sets up quicker and sands easier than PVA. I'm afraid I can't see the point of using non-waterproof PVA in a model boat.
Dave M

[Nigel EdwardsParticipant @nigeledwards16506]

Been Following great build looking forward to seeing it finnished.. Hope you dont mind me sharing on your post on a glue point although I am new to boat building and being on a budget I had no proplems using D4 Wood Glue Solvent free industrial grade, high strength wood adhesive. Totally waterproof, impact and temperature resistant, and sets in just 10 minutes with good clean joints Dries clear only £5.98 for 1L from Toolstation.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Thanks for that, Nigel. Might well give that a try.

Dave

[Nigel EdwardsParticipant @nigeledwards16506]

Posted by Dave Milbourn on 29/08/2013 11:54:27:

Thanks for that, Nigel. Might well give that a try.

Dave

Your welcome Dave I find toolstaition handy for some items as they can be cheeper than other places..

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Nigel

I`ll get some in…..Sounds just the stuff we need, although. I`ve never heard of it

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Nigel

Be careful how and where you store the D4 as it is very susceptible to temperatures and to achieve the 6 month shelf life it must be stored between 15 and 25 deg C (which is basically summer time)

Paul

[Nigel EdwardsParticipant @nigeledwards16506]

Posted by Paul T on 29/08/2013 18:49:24:

Nigel

Be careful how and where you store the D4 as it is very susceptible to temperatures and to achieve the 6 month shelf life it must be stored between 15 and 25 deg C (which is basically summer time)

Paul

Thanks for the info Paul I will bear that in mind.. I was not aware of this.. looks like its best for craftsman who will likley use lots of it within a few months, might be best using another product if your only a occassional builder. sorry if i got you all excited about this glue its works a treat for me and I shall not waste any as I have other projects on the go plus another boat build soon and the price was right thats what got me excited about it…Keep up the good work guys looking forward to seeing the finished boat and plans once released.. Nigel

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

I am pleased to announce that Bobs endeavours have been appreciated and that even though the testing is not complete the 1st sale of the design has taken place.

As a very experienced modeller he has taken the sports fisher version in the full knowledge that the designs are still being tested and I look forward to seeing the results.

Please note that I don't intend to release any more plans until the testing is fully completed.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Well done, Paul

Looking forward to the builders efforts!

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi! chaps and…………Hi! Noobs especially

Got sealed orders from Red Leader!

It says……."Tell `em about the cracks"……Er?…….What`s he on about now?…….More jokes?

No!……..The filler……you plonker!

OK Roger!

Occasionally, we have the need to hide our poor workmanship!……Sloppy joints etc

We need to fill the gaps with filler

What sort of filler?………. I hear you ask

This stuff……..P38…………From all good filler shops and also Halfords

The cracks

More cracks

The filler needs to be mixed……..Back in 5 mins……

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

5 mins later….

This is about right for the Filler and Hardener proportions…..

(I always seem to end up with plenty of hardener left over)

Then we mix it with a spatula or your butter knife

Then!!!!!!!………We need to work fast………As we`ve only got 5 mins before the mixture starts setting

After about 1/2 an hour, the surplus can be cut off with a knife or chisel

After about 2 hours, the filler can be sanded down, and we should wear a dust mask for this job

Back shortly……

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

A note about dust masks

The usual elastic around the head masks that everyone knows as a dust mask are only suitable for everyday brushing up of general household debris. This type of mask is classified as P1 or even cheaper Comfort Masks and they are just about useless.

For the work that Bob is doing i.e. a sanding process that produces a fine particulate it is advisable to use a minimum P2 type mask.

For those who are not sure what the difference is have a look at this link

http://www.screwfix.com/c/safety-workwear/respiratory-protection-dust-masks/cat850348

Don't forget that you only get issued with one pair of eyes and one pair of lungs so DO NOT take chances with either

Paul

 

 

Edited By Paul T on 30/08/2013 14:49:43

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Just to show you the result of the filler

Now for the deck build

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Shop floor to Drawing Office……….Minor disaster!

Can see a problem, Red Leader!

The deck has a camber, but there`s no way of achieving it!

All the formers need the top camber profile, which will get cut off when the hatch opening is cut out

It`s the norm to have the same deck radius throughout the length of the hull

What is the camber at the widest hull width, please?……I can make my own camber tops, that can be glued alongside the existing formers

All the formers need modifying to show the top camber…..Sorry Paul

The former No 6 with the protruding top edge, will need modding too

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The deck camber and extended section to Frame 6 are already detailed on the drawings

Is this correct or are we at cross purposes

Paul

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