Painting (Help)

[John O’CParticipant @johnoc]

Hello Folks

I am currently, and very slowly, planking the hull of my Smit Rotterdam and hope to finish it before I die!!

I have spent recent weeks learning to airbrush on my Springer that I made from scrap wood from of my shed after discovering them on the forum. I think I have made every mistake under the sun including trying to varnish over the Acrylic paint and causing mayhem with the finish. Then not sanding it all off thoroughly enough and getting a patchy orange peel effect that has now been sanded off.

This practice has stood me in good stead for the job on Smit but I would like to get rid of the wood grain effect before painting.

What advice is there out there that would help me please?

Also what is best for masking as I have had a few problems on this front as well.

I hate painting but will have to improve.

Cheers

John

[John O’CParticipant @johnoc]

Preperation of the wooden hull

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

John,

There is an excellent item on Painting and Varnishing in the Members Contributions section of this site by Paul Thomason. Although the item covers brush painting as against spray painting, a superb finish is easy to obtain by brush painting (with time and patience).

For masking, Tamiya make a range of good model sized tape, but for larger usage Frogtape Delicate Surface painters masking tape, from the DIY shop.

**LINK**

[mike farrellParticipant @mikefarrell21522]

Hi John My friend who paints petrol tanks for Bikers told the simple way and cheapest way to prepare a surface for spraying is ,1 paint the wood with emulsion 2 When dry rub down with sand paper (NOT TO ROUGH) 3 that will fill all grain holes repaint and rub down again 4 When smooth rub down with 400 grade to flat surface .It works .Use any old emulsion you have as you will cover with undercoat . .I,ve found airbrushing needs 6or7 coats to get any debth of colour and I give it as many coats of varnish.Hope that helpsMichael

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

I'd recommend Deluxe Material's Eze-Kote **LINK** used either with or without their lightweight glass-cloth. It is intended for wood; sets in about 20 minutes and is water-based so no smell and easily cleaned up. I've used it several time and have no qualms about recommending it.

Dave M

[John O’CParticipant @johnoc]

Tony, Mike and Dave

Many thanks for your quick responses and help.

I have today purchased the Tamiya masking tape with dispenser!! and ordered the Eze-Kote to aid with the internal and external structure and finishes.

Mike, regards the airbrushing, when you say 5-6 coats is that coats left to dry for say 24 hours or an almost continuous one coat after another?

Also what varnish do you recommend to go over Tamiya acrylics?

I also have some old emulsion so Scrappy will be experimented on.

Once again many thanks.

J

[mike farrellParticipant @mikefarrell21522]

Hi John ,I have a heated workshop so I spray leave for 20 mins and continue until I get a debth of colour I need .I leave to harden for 24 hours before starting to with the varnish .A thorough check of the paint finish ,rub down with 400 wet and dry . A thorough clean and repeat varnish as painting I,ve used dope in the past but do not like getting high from the smellMichael

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

John

I've always used the 'sniff test'. On the basis that all paints have a solvent which has to evaporate in order for the paint itself to dry, I wait until I can't smell any trace of solvent (when I stick my nose right up against the painted surface) before I apply another coat. Leaving the primer coat to harden for at least 24 hours is mandatory also in my book – longer if you have the time/patience. Along with dust and poor materials, impatience is the worst enemy of a good finish.

Dave M

[shipwrightParticipant @shipwright]

John,

A few simple axioms for painting models – all learned by me the hard way !.

a. Surfaces must be rubbed down to provide a "key" for paint to grip to – shiny surfaces (eg gel coat on fibreglass hull) will not provide the grip that is needed and the paint will peel off

b. Cleanliness is a "must" – dirt, dust and oil/grease are the enemies of paint.

c. Steady hand and good eyesight – good illumination is essential.

d. Don't use ordinary decorator's masking tape – if you do the paint line will not be sharp and paint will spread under the tape – I know because that is what happened when I painted my TSDY Dufresne (Deans Marine) model !

e. If spraying paint then do it in well ventilated space eg garage with door open and cover objects nearby as spray does drift.

f. Patience is needed !

Ian

[John O’CParticipant @johnoc]

Once again thank you for your assistance.

My shed is heated so that helps but it is also my workshop so is dusty. I have set up a spray booth so have one area for painting and keep that hoovered out and dust is not yet an issue. It is just me I think.

Having said that my airbrushes are not the best. I read a recommendation for Veda so bought 2 @ £21 each, a 0.2 and a 0.3. I have had nothing but grief. Out of the box the 0.2 sprayed great but the 0.3 was 'Mr Blobby' but I am learning so at first put problems down to me. Having said that the 0.2 won't give a clean blob free spray with the nozzle guard/cap on. I picked it up this morning and the needle end was bent through not re-fitting the guard/cap. I fitted a new needle but the nozzle must be damaged and the 0.3 won't spray cleanly even after cooking in the ultrasonic cleaner. 2 hours wasted just when I thought I was getting it together.

I am returning them for checking by Bartsharp so spray cans here we come for now.

I am also thinking of investing in the Iwata HP-C PLUS providing her in doors doesn't kill me!!!!

One last question to Mike: What type of varnish do you use to final coat? I am getting there with Scrappy's hull and would like to try it.

Take care

J

 

Edited By JOHN O’CONNELL on 23/04/2014 14:28:34

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