My Triton Build

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Steve Walker 1 on 15/03/2016 16:47:40:

….

As an aside, it was £15 for what was quite a small parcel to the island, so it's quite important to me to be able to source as much as I can from one place. I have found lots of bits and pieces at different outlets at cheap prices but once I add on delivery it's amazing what it costs. Happy days….

 

 

So you obviously need to plan shopping for whenever you visit the mainland…? But you also need to make the most of what you can source locally. For instance, use the glues that you can get – PVA glue is quite common. See if there's a builder's merchants or wood yard that does 1/8" ply or thinner. See if you can get brass sheet or rod or lead from a plumber.

Don't be afraid to raid skips – there's often lots of useful stuff there. I found several old computer power supplies, and have used the steel sheet they were made from for lots of things. In fact, one of the aims of the EeZeBilt boats is to encourage people to make their own fittings rather than buy them. Here are some pictures of the EeZeBilt RAF Crash Tender – the only items on this that were installed 'straight from a fittings shop' are:

• the prop
• the motor
• the cowl vents
• the water pump
• the vinyl stripe and lettering

the hand-holds and cleats are made from some chopped-up railing I had in my bits box, but the rest is bent steel sheet, hammered copper wire, or, for the flags and roundels, printed paper. The working hydrants are brass tube and copper wire from domestic wiring and an old immersion heater…

 

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 16/03/2016 00:16:57

[Steve Walker 1Participant @stevewalker1]

Yes, points well made Dodgy. I have searched my local yards, diy's etc. No one sells balsa glue or model grade balsa or ply but I did use a large supplier and got some glue, ezekote and wood. Unfortunately I ordered 50mm wide instead of 100, so have had to glue strips together in preparation for the Sea Princess base. Think I have enough with careful glueing and cutting.

I have already started looking at out household junk with different eyes, much to the frustration of the missus and have scavenged a bucket of bits from the garage and my toolkits. I hadn't thought about computers and so on. Apart from little fittings are the DC bits fitted of any use? I'm thinking about fan motors and such like, or are they just not bothering with?

You are right about my trips to the mainland though, careful future planning is needed and that's why I was wondering what I might be able to tackle through the winter even though we have only reached Spring. In the summer we take the car but in winter we fly and I don't think Loganair will take too kindly to me turning up with a load of 4' lengths of wood.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Steve Walker 1 on 16/03/2016 09:02:04:

Yes, points well made Dodgy. I have searched my local yards, diy's etc. No one sells balsa glue or model grade balsa or ply but I did use a large supplier and got some glue, ezekote and wood. Unfortunately I ordered 50mm wide instead of 100, so have had to glue strips together in preparation for the Sea Princess base. Think I have enough with careful glueing and cutting.

I have already started looking at out household junk with different eyes, much to the frustration of the missus and have scavenged a bucket of bits from the garage and my toolkits. I hadn't thought about computers and so on. Apart from little fittings are the DC bits fitted of any use? I'm thinking about fan motors and such like, or are they just not bothering with? …..

The original balsa cement is now a bit of a specialist item – and is less good for plywood, so moving to aliphatic glue (which should be available from any hardware store) would be a good idea. The advantage of balsa cement is the quick 'grab time', which is ideal for a kid building a boat – they want rapid gratification!

You may find useful 1/8" ply being used in the bottom of drawers or the back of old wardrobes – there are all sorts of places to get material from. The 12v DC fans in computers are often used for ESC cooling or in smoke generators – broken up they offer a pair of bearings, some magnets and a length of useful varnished copper wire. The sheet steel, aluminium and plastic of a computer housing is always useful – the internal wiring offers wires and connectors. The circuit boards can be scavenged for diodes, resistors and LEDs, and then the PCB fibreglass substrate is a useful sheet material – there are nuts, bolts and microswitches in abundance, and usually a small speaker…

[Steve Walker 1Participant @stevewalker1]

In anticipation of the arrival of the granddaughters and the inevitable titanic scenario that will unfold with our Tritons, I have another question.

When the boat fills with water, will the motor survive? That is if I rescue it and rinse and dry out the motor, will it still work, or will I be best to get at least one spare?

I have been sent drawings of the changes they want to your Triton design which include canopies and deck chairs! Be prepared to be horrified. Even I am not sure about the colour schemes but 4 and 6 year olds have some set ideas.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Steve. Electric motors run quite well underwater, and providing the mud is washed out and the motor blown through and left to dry in a well ventilated/warm environment it will certainly be fine. Possibly a drop of light oil on the bearings would not go amiss. Literally a drop….a drop from a pin and no more.

It is the receiver and (depending on make) ESC that is more likely to be damaged, but there again, dry them out well and they should be OK.

Ashley

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

 

Posted by Steve Walker 1 on 01/04/2016 16:11:22:

……..

I have been sent drawings of the changes they want to your Triton design which include canopies and deck chairs! Be prepared to be horrified. Even I am not sure about the colour schemes but 4 and 6 year olds have some set ideas.

 

Already ahead of you!

Here we see the Edwardian Steam Launch with a canopy: **LINK**

…and here is your deck chair: **LINK**

(Sorry about the rhyme! Someone bet me…)

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 01/04/2016 21:11:33

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

My 11 year old daughter has chosen the colour scheme for my goblin sail boat too. Metallic turquoise with a pink hibiscus flower on the bow sides and the name hibiscus across the transom.

Andy

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

AndyC. Hmmmm…we shall enjoy seeing this on the pond eventually..

​Ashley

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Steve Walker 1 on 01/04/2016 16:11:22:

When the boat fills with water, will the motor survive? That is if I rescue it and rinse and dry out the motor, will it still work, or will I be best to get at least one spare?

Useful tip #42: When you have completed a boat, stuff any accessible cavities with expanded polystyrene foam cut from packing material.

EeZeBilts are small, so can be swamped if run in rough water. And they are made of balsa, which can resonate and increase noise levels. Polystyrene foam suppresses noise and provides emergency buoyancy. And it's cheap and can be used to hold batteries in place…

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Dodgy Geezer on 02/04/2016 10:42:29:

Posted by Steve Walker 1 on 01/04/2016 16:11:22:

When the boat fills with water, will the motor survive? That is if I rescue it and rinse and dry out the motor, will it still work, or will I be best to get at least one spare?

Useful tip #42: When you have completed a boat, stuff any accessible cavities with expanded polystyrene foam cut from packing material.

EeZeBilts are small, so can be swamped if run in very rough water. And they are made of balsa, which can resonate and increase noise levels. Polystyrene foam suppresses noise and provides emergency buoyancy. And it's cheap and can be used to hold batteries in place…

[Steve Walker 1Participant @stevewalker1]

Ha! Love the deck chair but I think I will see how we get on putting the second one together when they arrive. I have pre-built and sealed some of the fiddly parts and managed to get the rest in a pre-fit condition so I'm hopeful it will be a couple of days at most to get it onto the water.

I'm sure they will be a big hit but I will need to keep some of your developments up my sleeve for the next visit. I hope they get as excited about this as I am.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Steve Walker 1 on 02/04/2016 10:43:19:

…… I hope they get as excited about this as I am.

Easy way to get small kids excited about model boats #108: Get some small figures which can be put on board. Lego figures should do at a pinch for a Triton…

For your further delectation, and as a suitable topic for a bedside story, I offer this gem from F Anstey (a much underrated and forgotten writer of Victorian child's fantasy). Scroll down to Example 7:

"THE WRECK OF THE STEAMSHIP "PUFFIN"

[Steve Walker 1Participant @stevewalker1]

Well, Dodgy, the holiday is over and two very happy little girls are off home to the big city tomorrow. Gone through 3 sets of batteries, two major floods and one flat Triton which gave its life saving a wee girl from falling on her face on the riverbank. All performed well. No 1 had the handmade prop and shaft and held its own in a moderate current with a 4.5v battery pack. No 2 and 3 had bought props and shafts and did very well on 6v battery packs pulling against the current. The Lego figures and the required addition of a sail to the dingy delighted them and they have to be refurbished for the summer hols. Definitely glad I ezekoted the hulls though.

Does any one know of a nice pond in the Rawtenstall/Ramsbottom area where I can take them? The girls are non-swimmers, well, with their clothes on anyway.

[Robert PutleyParticipant @robertputley]

Just seen this thread. Purchased my first Keil Kraft Triton, I guess around the late sixties. Radio controled it – cannot remember which gear I used, a Kaco electric motor, and a 4.8 volt Deac pack, again, cannot remember wether it was a 500 pack, or a 225.

The tuning circle was very large, due to the large distance between rudder and propeller. Their is a simple way to cure that. My brother and I, each built a small racing electric boat built from plans published in MM/Model boats by Vic Smeed. These boats had dagger plates fitted about 30/40% in from the transom. This reduces the turning circle.

Made and fitted one to the Triton, which dramiticly reduced the turning circle. at a later stage, I also had an KK EB tug. That was quite short.

I still have a Triton, originaly built about 35/40 years ago. Also a similar age Mermaid, both fitted with dagger plates. They have a very good turn of speed and are still going strong.

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Hi Robert

Welcome aboard. There seem to be a few Tritons about the place. I should finish mine but not had time o get in the shop.

I did a bit a little while ago and rubbed down and gave her a second coat of undercoat and a dollop of paint or two on the inside too. It was whilst I was doing this that I fitted the rudder assembly back on and tried it out. Found that the fishing line had gone a bit saggy and was not getting a full rudder lock. so I thought I would change the line to something a bit more substantial. Not easy and then lost one end as I tried to pull the new line through using the old one. Problem now is that you have no access to the rudder line mechanism because the sides are on and you can't see where the holes in the supports are.

Drastic times call for drastic measures. Cut a slot in the inside of the inner hull to be able to re-thread the line. Had to do this both sides, but balsa is easy to cut and then repair. Now have long lines waiting for me to re-glue to the servo arm and rudder arm.

Next instalment soon. Hope to put a top coat on and finish painting the roofs too. Then I still need to find a suitable prop coupling. Tried a microflex but is too long. The problem I have is that I used a short piece of silicon hose which is the right inside diameter (2mm both motor and propshaft). I did order a mini coupling from model boat bits too, but one end is 2.3 so too big. Might try the hose again. Just does not seem to last long. Any other ideas?

Regards Andy

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Andy C on 15/06/2016 20:30:21:

……….. Then I still need to find a suitable prop coupling. Tried a microflex but is too long. The problem I have is that I used a short piece of silicon hose which is the right inside diameter (2mm both motor and propshaft). I did order a mini coupling from model boat bits too, but one end is 2.3 so too big. Might try the hose again. Just does not seem to last long. Any other ideas?

Regards Andy

For the smaller boats I have used power cable insulation for some time now. Find a length of domestic 3-core mains cable and cut an inch of insulation off one of the cores. The insulation is tough stuff, and can take quite a lot of wear…

DG

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Hi DG

Do they have 2mm inside diameter?

Andy

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Andy C on 15/06/2016 22:54:45:

Hi DG

Do they have 2mm inside diameter?

Andy

Cooker wire is around 1.8MM. I usually use standard ring mains wire, which is about 1mm. It's quite flexible, so it expands to push over a 2mm shaft quite easily…. Look in your nearest skip, grab a foot or two and experiment…

[Robert PutleyParticipant @robertputley]

Hello Andy,

Thanks for your reply. With regard for the coupling, I see that you have had a couple of helpful answers. Over the years, I just made do with whatever I could get my hands on.

For the rudder in both boats, I fit the servo in the rudder bay, with a direct connection to the rudder arm. Smear a little silicon around joints extra for water resistance.

My boats are quite fast, and sit low in the water, I would say the waterline/plimsol line is scale. When turning, water would run the the deck into the rudder well. So I fit solid rails at the back to prevent this.

I use four AAA cells in the Mermaid, and five AA in the Triton which has a rare earth Keller fitted. Very understressed!! It was lying around unused, so I decided to put it to work.

I would seriously consider fitting a dagger plate because it transforms the model.

I could show you photos of my boat, but I do not now how.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Robert Putley on 16/06/2016 08:02:59:

Hello Andy,

Thanks for your reply. With regard for the coupling, I see that you have had a couple of helpful answers. Over the years, I just made do with whatever I could get my hands on.

For the rudder in both boats, I fit the servo in the rudder bay, with a direct connection to the rudder arm. Smear a little silicon around joints extra for water resistance.

My boats are quite fast, and sit low in the water, I would say the waterline/plimsol line is scale. When turning, water would run the the deck into the rudder well. So I fit solid rails at the back to prevent this.

I use four AAA cells in the Mermaid, and five AA in the Triton which has a rare earth Keller fitted. Very understressed!! It was lying around unused, so I decided to put it to work.

I would seriously consider fitting a dagger plate because it transforms the model.

I could show you photos of my boat, but I do not now how.

 

 

I am very interested in your boats, and I run the EeZeBilt web site. It is a little complex to display photos on this forum, but you could send some to me at eezebilt@Hotmail.co.uk and I could put them up for you. I would also be interested in including them on the web-site…

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 16/06/2016 11:46:08

[Steve Walker 1Participant @stevewalker1]

Just as suggested by DG above, I used insulation from ring main cable. My granddaughters played with their Tritons for the whole Easter hols with not a hint of trouble. I found it a good tight fit and as long as the motor and prop shafts were carefully aligned can't envisage any problem. They sailed them up and down a shallow river at the side of the croft so no need for RC. I found they sailed true even in the slight current and the girls so got the hang of where to point them to get the longest run. In fact they had a hoot!

Would the complication of a dagger board on such a small model as the Triton not just be avoided by adding a bit onto the keel? What are your thoughts DG, as I am thinking about building another for the summer holidays to replace the one they squashed? Regards, Steve.

[Robert PutleyParticipant @robertputley]

I have forgotten that the Triton featured a kiel. Even with my original one built in the late sixties, I left off the kiel as it was built for RC.

The dagger plate was added later to improve the turning circle, which was very large, which i put down to the large distance between rudder and prop.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Here are a few shots of RP's EeZeBilts from the 1960s – a Triton and a Mermaid:

Both boats are quite fast, and heavy – so the stern can get swamped in a turn and so has extra wings added:

The dagger plates which enable better turns look like this:

and this:

What a view from the workshop!

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

DG. The boats are OK, but wow, what a train layout you have !! Ashley

[Robert PutleyParticipant @robertputley]

True Ashley, true😊

Problem is…. I think my controller is out of order, just doesn't work!!😊😊

[Author]

Posts