Eezebilt Triton

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Just started my latest model now Autumn /Winter is fast approaching.

It's an Eezebilt Triton, the plans were printed from the Eezebilt website it but I redrew them to give a model of 21" instead of 17".

I built one of the original kits, in the early 60's. I hope my modelling skills have improved, as I remember it stopping in the middle of the pond a few times.

Tim

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

[Chris EParticipant @chrise]

I do like seeing these reminders of my childhood built to the standard that my imagination fools me into believing that I might have achieved.

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Chris

Trial fitting of the front of the cabin brought back to me that I had lot of trouble with this 60 years ago! How did we build these on a kitchen table with a Swann Morton knife 'borrowed' from my big brother and a tube of balsa cement.

Of course I have also enlarged the design slightly so any errors in the original will be greater.

The prop shaft arrived this morning so I can fit the motor now before the sides are fixed.

Tim

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

That is proper fun modeling, from a great web site. I've still got one of the originals, lord knows how it's survived all these years. I'm going to enjoy watching. Your build.

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

I am just hoping that I don't overdo the weight. It's only 4 inches longer than the original. I don't think the motor, prop shaft, and rudder weighed very much. The other Eezebilt models I have built are 28 and 32 inches long, so weight wasn't much of a problem.

Tim

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

A little more progress.

Would have been more but the prop shaft was off centre once it was glued in and a cabin side had a material failure when filing a window.

Just started to glue the bottom panels on. Motor mount is fixed and the rudder tube is ready to be fitted.

The cabin sides and the main Deck have to be fitted before the hull sides can be fitted and glued.

Tim

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Have now glued on the bottom and side panels. Just need to get some filler on to cover the pin holes and a few small gaps.

The tight curve on the bow was achieved by soaking the liteply in warm water for a few minutes then pre bending whilst it dried.

Have just started the tricky front windows but will make the apertures smaller to add a little bit more strength. Then need to think about how to secure the cabin roofs.

Tim

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

The front windows are in and the roofs have been made and fitted.

I have started the small rowing boat but I may have another go at a better one.

Two members of the crew have been found but one may need surgery to remove his crash helmet.

Tim

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Been spending time with some detailing but have filled in the grain on the hull, but not sure when it will be warm enough to put some glass cloth on it.

I have a mast made from old paint brush handles and have nav lights, radar, horn, anchor and winch being painted.

Also had couple of attempts at the small boat.

Tim

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Nothing to say much, Tim…coming on well.

yes the cold certainly stops play. A few of my models were built inside over the winter months. Rush outside, cut and sand the wood…rush inside to glue and paint. Acrylics helpful here!

Hot air gun useful for curving ply, being careful.

Ashley

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Thanks Ashley

It's too cold to do anything in my workshop , minus 5 the other night and 0.5 yesterday morning.

I have a desk inside so I can get on with some of the smaller bits on the model. Had a paint problem on the winch with some Humbrol metallic paint so have had to clean it all off and start again.

Tim

[Chris EParticipant @chrise]

I am enjoying your build.

I have the same weather problems. It is amusing (?) that winter is always said to be the build time yet, unless you have a rare fully heated & insulated workshop, it is the time of year that causes the most problems.

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

I'm lucky that my desk is a corner of a loft conversion and as hot air rises it's usually the warmest room in the house.

The Humbrol metallic paint giving trouble is one of their Metalcote paints. I have used it before but can't remember what I used as a base.

Tim

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

I only got into model boats because I wanted a winter hobby. I run the boats now and then in the summer and might do a bit on the builds if it's raining but that's it.

Fortunately I use the small bedroom/storage room as a workroom though I'm limited to how much noise I can make especially as one of my sons is currently working from home. Ive got to be warm to do detailed work!

Chris

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Once upon a time, Humbrol metallic paints used to dry to a proper shiny mettalic finish. Now all I seem to get is a dull silver grey for silver. I have been using Rustins Acrylic silver paint, Unfortunately in a larger tin size, or there are some good artists silver paint, but these do not tend to cover very well.

Ditto Humbrol/Rustins gold.

Ashley

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Ashley, there is a lot of online info anout this if you Google chrome paint or chrome model paint. The plastic modellers need it.

A lot of these metallics don't always wear too well though.

Colin

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

The Humbrol Metalcote is one which once painted and dry you can rub with tissue to give highlights. The Aluminum one works quite well.

For the winch I will use acrylics and add highlights.

Perhaps the Metalcote paints don't keep well.

Tim

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

As I am still waiting for the weather to warm up enough to put some epoxy on the hull, I have been making some detailing parts.

Some handrails and stanchions from wire and brass tube, painted a couple of figures I found in a drawer, and lined and varnished a piece of veneer for the foredeck.

Tim

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Posted by ashley needham on 10/12/2022 08:36:27:

yes the cold certainly stops play. A few of my models were built inside over the winter months. Rush outside, cut and sand the wood…rush inside to glue and paint. Acrylics helpful here!

Ashley

its so cold, i've been building 2 61" boats indoors…….so anything is possible.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Neil, you may be the exception to the rule!

i have unbelievably nothing on the go at the moment.

The heated workshop thing…very expensive to run and in this weather it would take a long time to get up to temp.

I have been mulling over possible improvements to my block/tin roof shed/workshop. Currently there is 50mm polystyrene jammed underneath the roof and this is very effective but condensation has water dripping in the place at the beginning and end of the year. Ventilation might be the answer, gapping between roof and poly, and letting air in via the corrugations (it’s not corrugated, it’s the square bumpy stuff you see on big warehouses etc).

The front wall is divided by a door and the left hand side has 50mm expanded poly behind the feather edge covering (50mm battens for the purpose), but the older right side is uninsulated so I may do that this summer. The wind generally blows AT the shed so it would be a benefit. On the left side the wall s covered by 50mm poly as I had two sheets spare,but can’t do much about the right side or rear as they face neighbours gardens.

Ashley

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Although my cabin in the garden is made from 44mm wood and double glazed doors and windows, it is still minus 2 or 3 each morning. Think my small fan heater would take hours to make a difference.

The problem with building a small model, like the Triton, is there is only a limited number of fittings to make.

Maybe in a few months we will be saying it's too hot be be outside working on our models!

Tim

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Work on Triton has stalled waiting for the weather being suitable for waterproofing and painting the hull.

My thoughts turned to the Eezebilt Cresta I have planned to build. The original was too expensive in the 60's as it needed an outboard motor. At the time this cost more than the boat kit at almost a £1! About £21.50 today. See MB April 2018 Flotsam and Jetsam.

The article had a drawing of the proposed motor, the Keilcraft Elmic Sprite so I have used the drawing to start a mock up of the motor to use on the Cresta. I plan to fit a motor conventionally with prop shaft.

I made the motor outline on liteply and I am now building the basic shape to mimic the Elmic motor. The final shape hopefully will be achieved by filling the space between the ply framework

Tim

 

 

Edited By Tim Cooper on 07/02/2023 13:04:11

Edited By Tim Cooper on 07/02/2023 13:04:52

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Not sure I would bother with the increased thickness of the outboard leg below the waterline. I would just thin it down so it becomes a good rudder, and twiddle the “motor” on its mount . You may be about to do that of course!

The “outboard” on my Toyboata” looks very convincing using a conventional prop and rudder end

Ashley

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Thanks Ashley

I had thought about using the outboard as the rudder, but thought I might want to run the boat without the outboard sometimes. Of course it might all change once I have built the hull.

Tim

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