Brutus

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I have rechecked the drawings and cant find a problem, The dim from outside of hull to inner face of stringer is 35mm

Could you take some more pictures of the stringer showing the full length of the hull.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul

Just look at Former 5 top notches….Then look at Former 6 notches

Former 6 is too narrow

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

You are right, F6 is to narrow by 15mm on each side at these points. Can you make the necessary alterations whilst I go back through my scribbling's to see where I went wrong.

Thanks Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul

The curved runners on your sketch of the stern area, look as though they pass through Former 7?

Yet the cutout on Former 7 is very shallow and not the right shape?

Or am I being a bit thick?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Drawing office to works foreman

Detailed drawings showing the construction of the stern have been emailed and I am working on the coaming details now…..even though its a lovely sunny day and I should be out having a picnic by the river with Jane I am here doing unpaid overtime keeping the detail hungry workshop going.

Does anyone care…NO

Will I get my reward in heaven…NO(don't believe in it)

Is there the satisfaction of a job well done….NO I would rather be spending this lovely day with Jane!

Paul

I bet you all feel sorry for me now

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Cheer up Paul

You are doing a fine job. Why is the stern of Brutus, so shallow?

Just come back from Etherow….It looks lovely, but the wind is biting

Just had a PM from a chap who fancies making an Ellie launch. He needs the info for getting a set of plans

Got some nice chequer plate for the Roll Top, it'll look lovely and very fitting

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The stern is shallow as a counterpoint to the large bow, if you imagine a slipper launch then you will get the general idea.

I am working through all of your TQs but it will take some time to answer them all.

Shame about Etherow but good news about the chap wanting to build an Ellie.

Chequer plate might look good as a total deck covering.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

Chequer plate will look excellent as a deck covering, we certainly wouldn`t want Mahogany planking

What about the roof also?

What we also need are some bold Destroyer type letters and numbers on the hull walls

Like…..PT007?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Checker plate on the deck would be great but I'm not so sure about the roof. Large lettering would be HUGE over kill and defeat the effect of quiet menace, a little like putting go faster stripes on 007s Bentley.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

"There ain`t no pleasing you!" and "Gercha"………Says Chas and Dave

In the meantime, a couple of pictures for the Drawing Officeto study and the Brutus fan club…..

The pictures show the present situation of total chaos…….Fitting the inner combing and the desktop slide rails

Both items are in limbo with the D.O. at the moment

But great fun, all the same!

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

There you go, Paul

The Top Secret feature is revealed!……..The Roll Top chequer plate hatch!

Just the type of novel feature that Brutus deserves?

Have you decided on the rudder pitch yet?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

How thick is the checkerplate and is it self-supporting or does it need a backing sheet, the overall thickness of the roller door will have an effect upon the supporting frames.

The two roller door supporting frames are cut deeper into F7 and are fitted flush with the top of F7, it will be necessary to trim the stern end of these roller door frames to enable them to fit inside the transom.

The inner stringer follows the same path as on F5 and F6 i.e. with an overall width of 25mm from the outside edge of the outer stringer. The inner stringer stops at the cross member that also closes off the top of the two roller frames.

I don't understand your TQ regarding the pitch of the rudder, the intention is to install the rudder post at 90deg to the underside of hull in the compartment formed by F7 and the transom.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Paul

I've sorted the roller shutter area out now and looking at the deck and super structure

I've fitted the combing stringers, full length and don't understand your design for the decking and how it fits etc

You show the deck fitting in a former notch? I've filled this notch with the full length stringer?

I can sort it out my way, if that's ok?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The reason for showing the deck as an insert is to preserve the totally flat nature of the design.

However as you have fitted stringers to the inner notches the following design could be adopted.

Its only a small divergence from the original design and in some ways might be easier to construct however this changes at the cabin where a traditional raised coaming is used (as below)

An easier method of fixing the coaming around the long curves is to fit the coaming in two layers as below.

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 03/02/2014 18:16:33

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Paul

Two layers for the coaming is a good idea

The deck cover could be flush the deck and fit a stopping rail inside the hull, taking the deck sheet to the hull opening.

Then the deck cover need not be a thin sheet

The cabin walls could overlap the coaming on the OUTSIDE……Better idea?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The deck cover could be flush the deck and fit a stopping rail inside the hull, taking the deck sheet to the hull opening. Then the deck cover need not be a thin sheet.

The only provisos are that the deck is totally flat (with no lumps, bumps or raised edges) and that changes don't add any extra weight to the higher parts of the hull.

The cabin walls could overlap the coaming on the OUTSIDE……Better idea?

I am aiming to produce a tight fitting waterproof seal that will stay on the model even at high speed, the traditional method of overlapping the coaming from the outside can produce a loose fit and will certainly reduce the width of the side decks which is something that I don't want to do.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

What does the roof look like, from the air?

Any more info on the cabin, please?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

For a plan view look at drg 19.

I am still working on the cabin structure.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

How about making the window a full half circle?

The corner as drawn may not look so nice?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Its important that the corner looks the way that it is drawn.

To explain: When designing the window and forward cabin area I tried a few layouts, a half circle being one, and concluded that a half circle window would change the basis of the design from brutal and menacing to a softer and more jolly appearance.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

There's just no catching you out, Sunshine…..You seem to have thought of every thing!

Any further developments on the superstructure?

Progress is rapid now, just waiting for the glue to set on the lower coaming, which is under great pressure, I'm a little dubious about taking the clamps off!

Any interest in my normal rivetted card covering?….Would look very tank like?

If not….What?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Don't worry about taking the clamps off, if you have used the prescribed waterproof adhesive then all will be well.

No rivets……its not a tank.

The image that we are going for is sleek and smooth just like you in your younger days as a lounge lizard, a silky smooth operator with a smile on your face and a dagger in your hand.

The finish should be a deep gloss black and silver.

Imagine that Q has been polishing 007s new Bentley to a point where the black is so deep and dark that not even light cant escape from its depth and the silver has the shine normally associated with nebular explosions.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Bob

See my notes on the way I finished Sea Spray. It should give you at least some idea:

The model was finished using EzeKote and lightweight fibreglass cloth, followed by several more coats of EzeKote and a good rub down with 400 silicon-carbide paper. Then on to the Halfords rattle cans for the primers and gloss colours.

Dave M

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

That`s some paint spec you chaps have concocted!……. Er……What is EzeKote and lightweight fibre glass ?

How about…….Solar film?

Now we`re talking 007 colours!…….Sigh!

In the meantime, the clamps are off, having been on for three days!

The outer stringers were under such great pressure getting round the Thomason curves!

Now for a good rub down and on with the deck covering

I`ve started at the ends with a good dolloping of oxide primer, as they will be difficult to reach, once the deck is on

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

To meet Pauls exacting standards, the deck section needs to be as flat as a billiard table!

So the flat board is being used as a sort of " Engineers Surface Plate"

Whereby the top deck surface will be sanded down to match the flatness of the board

In workshops, Engineers apply "Blue" to the surface plate and rub it onto the surface being scraped level

Then scrape off the blue…..This is done many times, until the surface is dead flat….Happy Days!

Spirit level is resting on the stern datum surface and is used as a "Sighter"……To check parallelism with the board

Apologies for the lecture, but some members may find this process interesting?

Bob

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