Brutus

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

For the benefit of the readers (and me) it would help if you explained which part of the stern is to wide.

I am also a little bemused by your comments about F6 being to narrow…….F6 is exactly the same width as F7 and it is F7 that sets the width for the entire stern section.

For the benefit of the befuddled readers I have included this section drawing showing the relationship between F7 & F6

It is possible that the Transom is slightly wide but this part has been drawn deliberately over wide to allow for angled trimming.

Paul

ps its nice to see a craftsman using a spoke shave

Edited By Paul T on 17/01/2014 15:09:35

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Drawing office to workshop

An extensive check has been made of all drawings and no errors have been found so the highest authority has been consulted who has suggested that the workshop engineers check their measuring equipment, clean their glasses and stop drinking tea.

Its a good job its poets day.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

Having made a pair of quality outside calipers…..See photo…..I now discover that the width at the top isn`t that far off now!

I couldn`t measure the structure, the keel was in the way….and had to resort, to doing sums!

It`s wide at the bottom as per your latest mod…..With a bit on for adjustment

F6 seemed too narrow originally, because F7 was a bit too wide

Since it`s Poets Day…….There was a young fella called Paul

Who designs model boats for us all

He draws them on CAD

For he`s a good lad

But the money he get`s…….. Is Sod all!………Boom! Boom!

Anon

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Shop floor to Cocky Drawing Office

The side cheeks each side of Transom are too deep!

Shop floor suggests Specsavers next time

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

'It is possible that the Transom is slightly wide but this part has been drawn deliberately over wide to allow for angled trimming.'

The angled trimming would also account for the transom being over deep.

Drawing Office respectfully suggests that specsavers would be useful for shop floor as its usually best to read the drawings before commenting.

Signing off now

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Friends can say anything to friends, without checking to see if it is a silly question or not?

Any item which has excess material should say so on the drawing

I'm still searching for a simple method of assembly for the transom

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Cracked it!

And it`s Bob on too!

Flat board, dead square, with centrelines, fits over central datum spine……Nice one!

Transom clamped on board……….Dead square……. Dead level………..Dead true

Board set at 70 degrees……….Transom set!………Very pleasing engineering solution!

All I need to do now is tinker with width etc……..Knowing where solid ground is!

Like it Paul?……..Essential setup for the building instructions?

Bob

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Your very clever you lot. I only hope when I grow up (40+, but young at heart), my boat building skills will be just as spot on. Very ingenious solution Bob.

Andy

[Amy jane SeptemberParticipant @amyjaneseptember49770]

wot? not finished yet? Get on with it!

(says Amy jane, running for cover…..)

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi there, Amy Jane

We been held up with a tricky assembly problem, the past week, but happily, we've cracked it now

Just like yourself………….picture shortly………..But this is a thing of beauty!

Lovely flowing lines, curvatious lumps and bumps….all in the right places too!

But that's enough about me!……lol

Just shooting through, Blue

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Andy

Dreaming up the Transom Board jig plate was a major breakthrough, but it was obvious really

As you know, I like engineering solutions to assembly problems

Burning the midnight oil, this is the latest state of play……and play is the operative word!

Bob

[Amy jane SeptemberParticipant @amyjaneseptember49770]

Aye, 'tis sculpture, Bob.

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Good morning Bob,

Cracking build , and inventive the good old datum lines and springing lines ,

on the square and level , sounds like masons lodge,……..

nice blog would be better if you moved that green machine out of shot ,

feeling a bit queasy when viewing ……..

cheers Larry…

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Morning Larry

Nice to see you out and about

Glad you like the precision touches….As you use too

We are in Betws.-y-coed at the moment, taking a break from boat building…… ( North Wales )

Look after yourself and take things easy, old friend

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The skeleton frame looks great and exactly as I envisaged, nice work Captain, have you got the 1.5mm ply to skin the beast?

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Paul

We were going to call at the Greenfield shop for the ply, but didn't make it

I fancy 1mm?….It's a bit thin but very flexible

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob what are you going to cover the ply with eventually?? resin and cloth or eze cote or just dope or paint??

1mm ply is very thin and the boat is very BIG..

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ashley

I think paint only will be ok

I've tried very stiff card around the bows and across the widest areas and it feels good enough for 1mm

But I will get 1.5mm also, just in case

Thanks for your concern

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

1.5mm is the minimum thickness in fact 2mm would be better, better still would be two layers of 1mm, fit one layer and then use epoxy to laminate the second (very strong)

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul

Are we aiming for a light build or what?

Your choice of motors originally was not too ambitious………….I think you said…2 x 600 with the belt drives etc

What are your latest thoughts?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Not aiming for a very light build but will need to be trim simply because of the size of the beast, the 1.5 ply is required to form the subtle hull shape and curves which cant be achieved by planking.

I'm still looking at a pair of 600s as these are the minimum requirement to provide a realistic scale speed but if you want to build a demon then have a go with a couple of these brushless thingies. Its really up to you and what you might have in your bits box.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Paul

I don't fancy another round trip of 70 miles, so I'm ordering the plywood …1mm and 2mm from Slec plus a few spare sheets

It's a pity, Brutus is just over 48", So I've planned for butt joints in discrete places by ordering 36" lengths

If you'll accept those Brushless things, I'll get those from Steve Webb with his blessing, as he's the man!

I can also try them in the SloMo too

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I really don't mind what engines are fitted to any of my designs, I provide a 'recommended' size and layout simply for the novice builder who might not be confident in specifying their own power plants.

A builder of your ability is more than capable of deciding your own layouts, I'm actually looking forward to someone building one of my designs with speed in mind.

Paul

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

It may be that a run with standard 600`s would be in order initially, to provide a baseline for motor fitment for anyone making this?? It would be nice to see just how well it goes as designed. There are of course a dozen different 600`s available to pep up the performance a bit if required without going to brushless. ALSO, having seen the boat perform with standard 600`s, this will assist in choosing brushless motors as replacements. I have certainly seen in-runner types that look as if they will fit straight on to brushed brackets..just a change of coupling hole size may be required.

Fitting brushless may entail a high power brushless ESC which in all probability will be, or require, water-cooling.SO I would say that fitting waters scoops in a suitable positions behind the props might be in order, even if they are not used at first, they will be there if your motors get hot or whatever..

I presume access and space are all ok to change motor types on this initial build without too much trouble???

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Looking at the brushless motors for sale at one of the well know model suppliers……..The choice is enormous and is really beyond me!

As a rough guide, a typical motor is about £70.00!….but this size of motor would power SloMo on it's own!

Brutus has got to be a twin, due to the concave cavitital hull

So I'm hoping that two smaller motors will be ok, for SloMo. It's difficult choice, as I want Brutus to fly!

Woe is me!……Bob

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