affixing wiring

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

HI – what is the best way to affix wiring and LEDS (for internal lighting etc) to inside of the hull? Many thanks

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I glue a small bag tie, the sort that are used in the kitchen for closing bags, to a small piece of plasticard or a small bit of wood. When the glues dry, I glue the plastic to the inside of the hull and then the wires are held by the ties.

Charles

 

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Many options and we all have our favourites but just a couple I use.

1) Plastic stick on bases with fine cable ties threaded through them.  Better for heavy wires and multiple cables.

2) Aluminium stick on bases with built in aluminium arms that bend over the cables.  Better for smaller cables.

Both the above stick better to a shiny smooth surface.

3) If you have a lot of cable to tidy up and don’t want to cut it short for whatever reason then two wood screws, wrap the excess cable around them and secure them with a cable tie.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

many thanks – sound advice!

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

All very good recommendations from Richard and Charles, but whatever you choose, make a wiring diagram of the the components, the layout of the wires, their colours and their functions.  It will make life a lot easier a few years from now if you need to fix anything.

Len

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

A couple of supplementary points when it comes to wiring.

The neatest and tightest wiring runs can make it difficult to replace failed components so sometimes a bit of extra wire to give flexibility can be useful. This might make it look a bit untidy but can same some frustration in the future.

When installing intenal lighting in a model the general idea is to esure that windows and portholes etc. are illuminated. However, it is somtimes the case that light can escape through the thickness of the surrounding material if not light proofed such as painting plywood black on the inside.

Colin

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Or dim them to the point where they don’t shine through by either using a lower voltage or going through a dimmer.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Another point is that it is worth using warm white LEDs for internal lighting as the standard white ones are too cold. My fishery cruiser uses warm white LEDs for the interior and standard white for the navigation lights. Quite a difference.

Colin

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Many thanks, everyone.  I think I will try to find a way of fixing the wiring to the deck head, as the sides of my paddle steamer have big saloon windows. I will probably try the bag tag method. I am just discovering this forum, and you are already proving a very friendly and useful soure of advice.  I will continue to make use of you!

[Fred Ellis 1Participant @fredellis1]

For my two pennies’ worth, I use cable wrap when ever I can,

Fred

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Finally, on this theme, I take it when attaching a circuit of lights to the inside of hull it makes sense to clip them into LED holders (am new to these too), rather than try to glue LEDS straight on, in case i need to take the circuit out later on to change/ replace something?

 

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

To be honest Alasdair I don’t bother using holders.  I usually simply glue the LEDs in place.  I work on the principle that they are so lightly loaded and so infrequently used that I expect them to have a life of many years.  If one should ever fail, and I haven’t had one so far, then I would simply cut it out and glue in a replacement.  Having said that I also have them inside lamp fittings when I would almost certainly have to unceremoniously rip the old one out but then clean up and glue in a new one would be the easiest way.

I also sometimes use lamps that are designed for model railway use and, rather than being on the end of the wire facing along the wire they are on the side of the end of the wire.  These lamps must be fitted in exactly the correct attitude for the light to go in the right direction so I find gluing them is more reliable for ensuring this.

As with everything I’m sure we all have our own personal preferences.  It may be the case that you have to adopt a different approach for different locations.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

many thanks Richard – will see how I get on!

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

I have used the small aluminium clips and found that they can break if you undo them few times.l have used velcro cable ties on some recent models as they fasten to themselves and can be stuck to a self adhesive velcro pad in the model.

I agree with Colin about the wiring diagram. I am rewiring a Robbe Dusseldorf, I built 20 years ago, as it seems to have developed a problem . The wiring is complex, as it has an 8 channel Rx and a Decoder to give another 2 proportional controls and 6 switched controls. I have used plenty of labelling but still having to work through the wiring slowly .

Tim

[Nigel Taily 1Participant @nigeltaily1]

As this is a place where the wiring experts are, could you tell me what these connectors are please? I presume that there is a name.

It goes from the ESC to the receiver.

I think I need a Y piece as I have one receiver and two ESC and two brushless motors.

My assumption is that to run two ESC from one receiver, I need a Y piece.

How far off am I?

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

They are generally simply known as Servo Leads.  You are correct, one way to operate two motors is via a ‘Y’ lead from the receiver to two speed controllers.  You can also have one larger speed controller with cables going to the two motors, or you can have two speed controllers independently controlled from two seperate proportional channels, usually the two sticks up and down.  This is generally known as ‘Tank Steering’.

If you go for the one channel and two speed controllers you need one of these:

Link to ‘Y’ Cable

Just to confirm, you have got ‘brushless’ speed controllers?

[Fred Ellis 1Participant @fredellis1]

Hi

If you are using a brushless ESC will it have a BEC, if it doe’s will you still need to remove one of the Red wires?

Fred

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Just as with brushed speed controllers the brushless speed controller could be fitted with a BEC.  If this is the case and you are using two then, yes, you will have to remove the red wire from one of the receiver connectors.

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

They are generally simply known as Servo Leads.  You are correct, one way to operate two motors is via a ‘Y’ lead from the receiver to two speed controllers.  You can also have one larger speed controller with cables going to the two motors, or you can have two speed controllers independently controlled from two seperate proportional channels, usually the two sticks up and down.  This is generally known as ‘Tank Steering’.

Just worth clarifying that a larger ESC connected to two motors is OK for brushed but not brushless motors. brushless motors need an ESC each.

Dave

[Nigel Taily 1Participant @nigeltaily1]

Yep. I bought two brushless and two ESC.
I have ordered up a Y piece for servo leads.

Do I have to do anything else?

A red wire was mentioned.

I don’t know what the yellow wire does so I have just ignored it.

[Nigel Taily 1]

On Nigel Taily 1 Said:

 

I don’t know what the yellow wire does so I have just ignored it.

What’s on the other end of it? It doesn’t look heavy enough for one of the motor wires which are usually yellow & blue.

Stephen

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

ESC and RX wiring has three components. Red is positive power suppy, black or brown is negative wire and the third wire, which can typically be yellow or white, is the signal wire.

If you are using the BEC (battery elimination circuit) to supply power to the receiver with two ESCs then only one ESC is needed to do this. The red wire connecting the second ESC should be disonnected as it will interfere with the first one.

The above refers to controlling the ESC. The motor power connections are typically red and black from the battery and  often blue and yellow to the motor although other colours can be used. The instructions should make this clear.

Colin

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

The yellow wire is for a ‘programming card’ to setup ESC parameters. You’re OK to ignore it.

Plug one ESC into your Y cable as it is. Disconnect the red wire on the plug of the other ESC and connect to Y cable with only white and black cables connected. If you’re careful you should be able to gently lift the plastic retaining tab and remove the cable without damaging the connector so it can be reconnected if necessary. Obviously you would insulate the removed cable / connector (I left it for clarity in pic).

Dave

[Author]

Posts