I'd start with a Club 500, at least you can afford to loose it when it hits a solid object!

Seriously though using a Club 500 hull as a test bed for development ideas and modifications can be very useful while you build your main model, plus it can be on the water very quickly helping you learn racing techniques and be better prepared when the main model is ready to go.

Hi Richard,

This one is an Engineering exercise. Just to see if i can do it. I'm no planning to race it. Just to see if it'll work.

Peter. Is the prop going to sit on the waterline or be fully submerged? If it’s on the waterline ie level with the bottom lip of the stern, obviously(?) you will need a surface piercing prop, but if submerged, a normal X type two blade one.

Surface piercing ones can be larger than underwater ones as they are only half submerged.

X series props will drive almost anything, and are very cheap. A wattmeter is the thing to use when setting up, so you can see how much current is being drawn for whatever prop you have, and you can judge speed verses power consumption when juggling with sizes. AND you can keep the current draw within motor and esc specs. Buy a few (35, 40, 45) and try them out.

Probably you will have a dog-drive on the flexi, but X props can be converted by cutting off the end, filing out the threads and filing a slot for the dog. No doubt no one would recommend this, but it worked for me….

I like those club 500 boats. Straightforward, not too big, quite quick and robust. If or as and when I sell the Fantome I may buy one.

Ashley

Edited By ashley needham on 01/02/2021 11:09:18

I guess I'll need a Surface Piercing prop Ashley.