Leaking hull

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Leaking hull

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14 August 2017 at 14:04 #72625
Peter Brown 15
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@peterbrown15
Hi just bath tested my boat and after about 5 mins noticed water in one area of the boat about midship. No leaks from the prop or rudder. Is the solution to stand down the hull fill if any gaps found or use a fibreglass resin?
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14 August 2017 at 14:04 #2701
Peter Brown 15
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@peterbrown15
In old wooden Vosper
14 August 2017 at 14:12 #72626
Dodgy Geezer 1
Participant
@dodgygeezer1
First step is to find the leak. Try drying out the hull, puffing a bit of talcum powder in and looking to see where the leak develops first…
14 August 2017 at 15:04 #72627
Peter Brown 15
Participant
@peterbrown15
Thinking about stripping the old paint off, sanding and filling the seams with expoxy resin. Not sure if this is the standard epoxy mixing tubes A & B or is it specialist stuff?
14 August 2017 at 15:26 #72628
Dodgy Geezer 1
Participant
@dodgygeezer1
Gaps can be hard to spot, and may not be on a seam. Really, you are better off to find out precisely where the problem is before undertaking a large amount of work…
14 August 2017 at 15:39 #72629
Peter Brown 15
Participant
@peterbrown15
Just had another look and there are gaps in the seams. What’s the best option for this.
14 August 2017 at 16:22 #72630
Charles Oates
Participant
@charlesoates31738
Here is one option, other approaches are just as valid. Sand or strip most of the paint off. Check all the joints and seams, any loose joints and unsupported planks / skins should be attended to. Minor gaps can be filled with plastic padding elastic, or similar, it's easy to sand but not a glue substitute. Then paint the inside with a polyester / fibreglass resin, it waterproofs and stabilises the hull. Then re paint the hull and all should be fine. It is my opinion that quick fixes lead to trouble later. Don't be afraid to add or substitute wood in suspect areas, fillers and resin aren't a substitute for good building..

Chas.
14 August 2017 at 17:02 #72631
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
Peter

There is only one way to do this properly, strip off all the paint and get down to bare wood then you can investigate every joint and seam, there is a good chance that the original glue could have deteriorated and you might have a complete re-glue on your hands.

This isn't as daunting as it sounds as it can be done in short sections.

Hopefully your problem isn't so bad.

Paul
14 August 2017 at 18:24 #72634
Dodgy Geezer 1
Participant
@dodgygeezer1
If you use a resin like Z-Poxy, which is intended for painting on, it should creep into the gaps in the seams and glue/seal them effectively. A coat inside and outside would certainly make the boat watertight…

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 14/08/2017 18:25:17
21 August 2017 at 10:37 #72752
soleyjon
Participant
@soleyjon
Morning, If It was mine I'd start on the inside, food colouring in plain water, mix well- pour into hull! you should see where the gap/s are , dry it all out, it's got wet inside anyway..! thin epoxy resin like DG says pour in where the leak is and leave to set, he quicker the better…job done.

SJ.
7 September 2017 at 02:42 #73068
Queequeg Quint
Participant
@queequegquint38270
My Orca boat is made of planked wood. I didn't make the hull itself, but the bloke who did said it was sealed. On my first run, it began to sink!

So, I sanded off all the paint and then began to apply several layers of fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth. I did this on the entire outside of the boat. Then, I applied a layer inside the hull. Finally, I applied a line of adhesive sealant along both sides of the keel on the inside. All told, I have about 7 layers of fiberglass resin and cloth on the outside. No more leaks! The only water that gets in is from the splashing water.

This hull is so strong now, I can actually drop the hull on the ground and it won't break!

Edited By Queequeg Quint on 07/09/2017 02:43:57
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