Aeronaut Clipper (sealing the wood Suggestions)

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Aeronaut Clipper (sealing the wood Suggestions)

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  • #67546
    Daniel Cardona 1
    Participant
      @danielcardona1

      Hello To all

      I'm currently building an Aeronaut Clipper, and I need some advice of how I should seal the wood. The clipper has the Hull build up from 0.8MM ply and the top deck is of Abachi (that is what it's name listed on the parts list) or obeche maybe, it's about 1.5mm in thickness.

      I am waiting for some sanding sealer because i didn't have it in stock so i ordered some and I have a can of polyurethane Varnish Clear Matt (Brolac)

      I would like to spray the hull with a normal spray can paint like Plasticote or similar products but I'm not sure what to use to seal the wood. should i wait and use sanding sealer or the polyurethane Varnish would do good as well? can I use the polyurethane Varnish over the paint is dried?

      Regarding the Deck, do i seal with sanding sealer or with polyurethane Varnish?

      Any suggestions and ideas are more than welcome.

      Kind Regards

      Daniel

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      #2617
      Daniel Cardona 1
      Participant
        @danielcardona1
        #67547
        Paul T
        Participant
          @pault84577

          Hello Daniel

          This might answer some of your questions

          http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/painting-and-varnishing/4918

          #67549
          Banjoman
          Participant
            @banjoman

            Hello Daniel,

            If I were you I would use the sanding sealer to seal the wood before painting, rather than the varnish, as that is one of those things sanding sealer is specifically made for.

            Before applying any topcoat paint, I would also use a primer paint from the same range as that which you intend to use for the topcoat.

            Finally, a small piece of general advice: if ever you are using different types (or even brands) of surface treatment products and/or paints together, always test the complete set you intend to use on a scrap piece before applying anything to your model. Certain paints and products may or even will react adversely to each other, and it is so much better to discover this before your model becomes a minor disaster zone.

            If you want to discover whether or not there would be any discernible difference between the sanding sealer and the PU varnish as a wood sealant, well — you could always do two test pieces …

            Mattias

            Edited By Banjoman on 06/09/2016 07:13:06

            Edited By Banjoman on 06/09/2016 07:13:44

            #67708
            Byron Rees…(Ron)
            Participant
              @byronrees-ron

              What Banjoman says is true and that is what sanding sealer is for. It depends on whether you are clear varnishing or opaque colour painting the hull/decking afterwards. Don't use it over enamels or acrylics!! —– it's Paint stripper!!!

              Originally sanding sealer was a shellac (Powdered beetle shell cases) suspended in a dope-like solvent and used only by French Polishers to raise and harden the fibres of new wood before further coatings. They called the solvent, thinned white polish.

              Any proprietry PU varnish, thinned 50/50 will do the same job but french polish stain and non-water based stains will go over shellac but it won't work over varnish. You can also use Dope, thinned down as well or if colour painting the manufacturers recommended sealer/primer coat. Once the fibres have hardened and dried they can be sanded flat. 2 or 3 coats like this will give a smooth finish ready for painting

              #67709
              Daniel Cardona 1
              Participant
                @danielcardona1

                Thank you guys for all the suggestions, Well I went ahead and used thinned epoxy and gave it a good coat. seems that it worked fine, then I used Plasticote Primer paint. 4 coats in total and sanded in between and I was very pleased with the final result. The hull looked like Plastic and very smooth not perfect maybe but I was pleased, I think I will go on with spraying the Hull in Plasticote spray colors and try their PU varnish as well. I will try that on a test piece.

                #67845
                Martin Field 1
                Participant
                  @martinfield1

                  Be careful with modern formula Plastikote. I used it to repaint my 56 year old Sea Urchin and the paint ate itself! I was so disgused, I phoned them and ranted and the lady on the phone sent me the last four pots of off white ENAMEL in her office. Fine once I'd stripped the acrylic muck off the poor old boat. It was not obvious that they'd moved from enamel to acrylic since I'd last used Plastikote! Now, I just make sure all my paint is enamel in the first place.

                  BTW, sanding sealer, preferably the cellulose sort is wonderful stuff. So easy to use, dries so quickly you can re-coat immediately and rubs down very nicely. Clean with cellulose thinners.

                  Martin

                  #67849
                  Daniel Cardona 1
                  Participant
                    @danielcardona1

                    Oh I hear you Martin! I discovered the issues with the new Plasticote the hard way. The primer came out very good, I was pleased with the result so I started to paint below the chine with a Blue colour, light coat first, let it dry for 15min then a light coat (Final) of spray and let it dry overnight. ( room temp was between 27 and 30 deg ) I always did this with Plasticote products and never had any problems, So the day after I checked the paint and it looked Ok, nice and shiny and most importantly DRY. So I say OK Lets finish the rest with a nice white colour, I started to mask the blue and started to first coat of white let dry and sprayed another one.I Let it dry over night and checked the colour for dryness, Hurray I sad, Job done.

                    So I started to remove the masking Tape and horribly I discovered that the glue residue of the masking tape was still attached to the paint angry (blue). Oh dammit I said, fault of the Tape, so I grabbed some alcohol and rubbed a small piece with a cloth to remove the tape, Only to discover that even the Blue paint was being removed!!angry 2. Then while holding the hull in my hands I realized the I was having lots of finger prints on the white stuff too! It was like that paint was starting to Melt under my fingers,what the hell! So I had to sand Again and start all over. I noticed that that on the back of the says to let it fully dry after 48 hourssurprise But not even after that so long the paint won't be fully dry! Damn you Plasticote!!! I also hated the new nozzles, they leave lot of drips if your not carefulcrying.

                    So be aware with Plasticote guys!

                    Unfortunately all good thing in life come to a miserable end, Plasticote was a fine product…once

                    Regards

                    Daniel

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