Typhoon Static Model to RC anyone done it??

[Alexander WillisParticipant @alexanderwillis66914]

Looking at the Typhoon boats on ebay that are static models that state they can be RC converted, anyone done it? is there a blog / how to guide anywhere? im tempted.

Or someone talk me out of it

[Alexander WillisParticipant @alexanderwillis66914]

Converting static to RC

[Alexander WillisParticipant @alexanderwillis66914]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-100cm-Handmade-Wooden-Typhoon-Slipper-Class-Speed-Boat-Hydroplane-Display-RC-/311619105808?hash=item488df23410:g:sWMAAOSwNphWbswB

Incase you dont know the one i mean.

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

Alexander, as long as it floats, you can do it, I'd have thought. At 1 metre long, a decent 540 motor installation should give a good scale speed. Brushless would give you demented duck status, of course, but I don't do all that hi-techy stuff. Others will have to give the low down on all that.

But as long as it doesn't leak, you can make it R/C.

Martin

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Just in case anyone is interested here's a diagram which shows all the added complications of fitting a "hi-techy" brushless motor. I've highlighted it in case you don't spot it first time around.

 

 

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 16/06/2016 09:24:55

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

Nice try, Dave, but I was referring to understanding all the numbers of brushless motors (suitability, etc.), the inevitable LiPo stuff with all its complication of charging, discharging, etc and then there's the smart chargers needed for them, not to mention the extra costs for all that stuff, but if you want demented duck, you go for it.

At least I answered the fella!

Martin

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

The info in the link does say that sections of the top can be removed, so there is interior access allowing at least some stuff to be fitted without damage to the exterior. Any model like this needs plenty of power and as little extra weight as possible. The modern techy stuff does that very well. The more traditional approach does give either a long, leisurely run or a good performance with a short run time.

Performance, run time, cheap. Pick any two.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Martin

More information is available about any given brushless motor that practically any brushed one (now that boxed Graupner motors are all but extinct). For example, I'm curious as to what you might mean by "a decent 540". I have several 540 3-pole motors in my box. One of them wouldn't pull the skin off a rice-pudding on anything less than 24 volts while another would just about pull off an arm on 6v. You couldn't tell one from the other without a really good look at it – there's certainly no indication on the case. Contrast that with an typical outrunner – see the picture here **LINK**

For what it's worth I don't think any motor with a 540-sized can would be sufficient power for a model 1metre long, especially one which has been built primarily for display and will likely be quite heavy. Conversely a moderate kv 35mm dia brushless running on 7.2v would turn a 45mm 3 or 4-blade prop without overpowering the thing. Just because there are a few sad individuals who think a Perkasa has to travel at warp speed doesn't mean that no other brushless option is possible.

LiPo batteries etc are not "inevitable". You don't need LiPo batteries to run brushless motors and equally you can use them to run brushed motors. The myth that they are the only power source suitable has come from aeromodelling, where their much superior power-weight ratio to NiMH makes them the only sensible choice. A modern automatic charger will handle both NiMH and LiPo types for a reasonable price – you don't need to spend hundreds e.g. **LINK**

Like you, I used to think that LiPo batteries were inherently dangerous and brushless motors were creations of the devil. Unlike you, I did some proper research; took advice and bought a proven motor/ESC/LiPo set-up; tried it and fine-tuned it until I was 100% happy with it. I still have a box full of brushed motors and the parts to make many more brushed ESCs than I will ever use, but brushless is now my first choice for anything which needs to plane over the water rather than plough though it.

As my tongue-in-cheek diagram was intended to show, the only real complication in installing them is connecting one additional wire – hardly beyond the grasp of any intelligent modeller. Otherwise they are smaller, lighter, hardly any more expensive and much more efficient. You should try one, Martin. It will certainly inform your opinions and may even change them!

Oh! Almost forgot – I would have answered Alexander's original post but I haven't converted such a model to RC and I don't know of any blog or guide about doing so. Nil replies aren't much help.

Dave M

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 16/06/2016 11:19:05

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 16/06/2016 11:24:00

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

Dave,

you can recommend all the research in the world, but if costs prevent the acquisition of all new stuff, when one's cupboard has existing stuff, then it isn't worth a toss. I'm sure if a 540 motor can seem to propel a buggy or racing car at amazing speed, then it can provide a good speed for a boat, if it is a decent one, not one that you describe having difficulty with a rice pudding. I'm sure any asking around would recommend one. As ever, playing with props is probably as important as anything.

And as my tongue in cheek response showed, it's the difficulties likely to be encountered with all the other stuff that i worry about.

I have only just done what i consider a great deal. I swapped all the little brushless motors and ESCs I was sent in exchange for a sheet of plywood, for a Basset-Lowke motor, which gives me more delight than I would ever derive from some faceless bit of Eastern cleverness.

I dare say brushless is the answer to every maidens' dream, but not for those of us with very limited funds. I've already wasted my money, it seems on an imax charger which, it transpires, is probably NOT what it says. I've no wish to lash out on more stuff I don't understand and have no interest in learning about.

I also figured an encouraging post, rather than none at all was likely to be appreciated by the OP.

But hey! Only hi-tech seems to mean anything these days, so I'll leave you all with that and bow out, wishing the OP every luck with his conversion. It'll make a change from all the tugs.

Martin

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

I think a good brushless motor for that size boat with a bit more grunt like a 35mm(540 size motor).

To turn Dave's size prop, a D3548/4 1100kv (part No.D3548-41100) this motor runs on 11.1 to 18.5 volts, but requires a 60Amp ESC.

I found this motor was about $8AU cheaper than my old time favourite the 3639-1100kv and had 110 watts more power.

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I've not seen it done, but I'm sure it can be. The following points might help.

Build light and strong.

Reinforce carefully all the critical areas.

Weight needs preference over duration.

Plan very carefully before building.

The balance point is vital, weigh the motor, battery, and drive etc at the planning stage.

Cross your fingers.

Good luck.

 

Edited By Charles Oates on 17/06/2016 08:58:18

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