Hitec servo programmer

[Graeme LinskeyParticipant @graemelinskey75588]

Hi there,

Has anyone used a Hitec servo programmer as I am after a 2×180 degree servo cant find one that's if they exist my question is can you programme a 360 degree servo that stops at 180 degree left and right not continuous to use on a shottle drive unit cant use a full 360 rotateing servo as I would never know which way my drive would be facing

thanks

[Graeme LinskeyParticipant @graemelinskey75588]

[mark69Participant @mark69]

Hi Graeme don't think any servo will travel more than 90 degrees without doing something inside that's just how there made, you could can your end points on the transmitter to make a winch servo travel how far you want !.what are you upto anyways ???…….mark

[Graeme LinskeyParticipant @graemelinskey75588]

The hitec programmer will adjust most of there servos to just above 180 degrees then I can adjust the atv to 120 percent if needed I just thought it would be cool if I could fully reverse the drive units or you can strip almost any servo down and modify it to 180 or continuous but a programmer for £18 quid? rather do it that way winch servo wont fit as the shottle drives have there own mounting integeral

[mark69Participant @mark69]

Graeme I went looking for ,360 degree servos and found this..

a ,Spring RC 360 degree continuous rotation robot servo SM-S4306R ,I don't think any programmer will change the movement as there are built in end stops …..mark

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Continuous rotating servos are just that i.e. they carry on rotating, just like a motor+speed controller, at the speed and direction dictated by the Tx stick. "Normal" servos have end stops on the output gear to prevent damage to the internal pot which would be caused by over-running. Unfortunately they also prevent the servo output shaft from turning more than about 180°. A programmer won't overcome this limitation. I think you will need to mechanically gear up the output from a standard or high-torque servo to rotate the nozzles as you describe.

I've been wrong before, mind you! Have you had a look at the Model Tug Forum? Odds are that someone there has already done the job. There are some clever blokes on that Forum – many in the north west of the USA. **LINK**

Dave M

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Get a 2 turn winch, discard the drum and fit an arm. Or just discard the shroud and use the drum as an arm. Get a servomorph to RESTRICT the travel to whatever you want.

[Kev.WParticipant @kev-w]

The Hitec 815 servo has a 140 degree arc, would that be close enough ?

[Graeme LinskeyParticipant @graemelinskey75588]

Hi there,

Thanks for your input the servo morph looks a good piece of kit only I cant use a drum which/sail servo it has to be a stock size servo as it fits integarel withe the shottle drive and is direct drive no way around that so I either modify a stock servo to turn continuous or use the hitec programmer to get 180 degree

Thanks for the input

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

There's a lot of information about configuring the drive units here. You might even find out something about the tyres.

**LINK**

Dave M

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Posted by Graeme Linskey on 17/04/2016 19:01:45:

Hi there,

Thanks for your input the servo morph looks a good piece of kit only I cant use a drum which/sail servo it has to be a stock size servo as it fits integarel withe the shottle drive and is direct drive no way around that so I either modify a stock servo to turn continuous or use the hitec programmer to get 180 degree

Thanks for the input

Look at the standard servo size winches as listed by Howes and Component shop. They are standard size servos with extra internal gearing to the position sensing pot and a shrouded drum instead of a servo horn. Without the shroud, and with a hole drilled in the right spot on the drum, it becomes a standard size servo with a custom arm that can turn as much or as little as wanted.

A modified servo will lack deadband and if it is providing steering, it will be incredibly difficult to stop the thing turning when wanted. I've been using them to power small plastic conversions and to make home made winches for years. Preventing "creep" is an inherent problem with them.

[Graeme LinskeyParticipant @graemelinskey75588]

Hi Malcom

thanks for that will take a peek

Hi Dave useful link given me some ideas thanks

[Graeme LinskeyParticipant @graemelinskey75588]

Posted by Malcolm Frary on 18/04/2016 09:59:19:

Posted by Graeme Linskey on 17/04/2016 19:01:45:

Hi there,

Thanks for your input the servo morph looks a good piece of kit only I cant use a drum which/sail servo it has to be a stock size servo as it fits integarel withe the shottle drive and is direct drive no way around that so I either modify a stock servo to turn continuous or use the hitec programmer to get 180 degree

Thanks for the input

Look at the standard servo size winches as listed by Howes and Component shop. They are standard size servos with extra internal gearing to the position sensing pot and a shrouded drum instead of a servo horn. Without the shroud, and with a hole drilled in the right spot on the drum, it becomes a standard size servo with a custom arm that can turn as much or as little as wanted.

A modified servo will lack deadband and if it is providing steering, it will be incredibly difficult to stop the thing turning when wanted. I've been using them to power small plastic conversions and to make home made winches for years. Preventing "creep" is an inherent problem with them.

well they would not of made a digital programable servo unless it works the way it should as for dead band never had any issues… its only lt the same as turning your ATV up

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Servo electronics are designed to cause the servo to hunt for a new position at the slightest stick movement, then come to a stop and stay there on arrival. They are also designed to start slow and slow down as they approach their new position which generally prevents jitter. When used as a motor control, this gives a very finicky stop position. A slowly creeping prop is rarely a problem. A creeping winch or steering could be a problem.

A purpose designed ESC (using the same chip but with a couple of different peripheral components in pre-PIC days) has a wider deadband just so that neutral can be found consistently. Effectively when the stick is moved, both are driving a motor to a new position. A servo "knows" when it has got there and stops, an ESC or modified servo never "knows", so keeps going until the stick returns to neutral. A winch servo has an extra bit of gearbox between the output shaft and the position sensing pot to give the extra travel while not driving the pot wiper through its end stops.

Servo electronics do rely on having a very stable voltage supply to prevent creeping if used as a speed control, of interactive buzzing if used as a servo.

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