Help with RC installation

[Keith HoodParticipant @keithhood50293]

Hi All,

complete novice speaking here

Can anyone provide me with a labelled photo, or similar pictorial as to where the bits and pieces go inside the boat and how they are wired up.

I'm not new to modelling but completely new to RC.

Just bought a model of Antje II and the lady gave me f.o.c an Acoms Techniplus AP-202.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

[Keith HoodParticipant @keithhood50293]

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Google is probably your friend here. For example, googling "radio control boat installation" gave me this useful link:

Wiring Model Boats

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Some additional information about the layout re: the Robbe Antje II in this thread from Model Boat Mayhem, may be of value.

**LINK**

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Keith

Just a point about the motor/battery/prop combination. This is important if you want to avoid either a model which will not make headway into a light breeze or conversely one which tears across the lake at a scale speed in excess of 100 knots. "Spook" fitted a 6:1 geared MFA motor and ran it on a 7.2v battery. This would produce about 1500 RPM at the prop, which is much too slow for the model. Those gearboxes are also very noisy, especially in a plastic hull which acts more as a resonator than dampening the vibrations.
I would recommend a Mabuchi 555 motor, using a direct flexible rubber coupling from the motor shaft to the prop shaft. It will turn the prop at about 3750RPM on 7.2v which will be a distinct improvement over the 6:1 geared motor. It's also cheaper **LINK**
If you find you want more power then simply increase the number of cells in the battery pack. I would agree with the comment about using Tamiya connectors – I favour the Deans type which are available from the same supplier as the motor (Component Shop).
Finally I'm duty-bound to point you in the direction of this article about electricity in model boats……….'cos I wrote it just for folk such as yourself! **LINK**
Dave M

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Just one other point – the radio. I assume that you have a Transmitter and matching Receiver? And you have never used radio control before?

I think the Acoms Techniplus AP-202 is a 27Mhz 2-function frequency set. This is fine for a small boat – you can control two things with it (rudder and engine speed) but it is a bit limiting if you want to do more.

It is also 'old' technology. This means that it uses crystals to specify a 'spot' frequency that it operates on, and only one person can operate on that frequency at a time. If two people do, they will interfere with each other. The usual way this is avoided is by flying a small coloured pennant from your aerial denoting your frequency – see here **LINK** At a 'club' site there is usually a 'pegboard' with pegs to allocate frequencies – you take a free one corresponding to your colour, and then other people know that that frequency is 'taken'.

The standard advice to give inexperienced people is to read up a bit about radio control, then go down to the nearest club and see how things work. Lots of people will show you the ropes! From a safety point of view, it's a VERY good idea not to turn on a transmitter until you know it's safe to do so…

The frequency bands in use are:

27Mhz – used by all types of models, toys, CB radios and various industrial services. There may be a lot of interference!

35Mhz – only used by model aircraft

40Mhz – only used by surface models – boats, cars, tanks, etc

459Mhz – rare – don't bother about this!

2.4Ghz – used by all models. Recent band using Wi-Fi technology. No crystals required, no interference, no waiting for your frequency slot to become free, and radios can be VERY cheap. Most modellers are moving towards this band…

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 11/06/2017 16:20:47

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Keith

My good friend and mentor DM is tooo modest as he is our leading electronics expert and has produced many easy to follow wiring diagrams, see this example LINK all of which can be found on Action Electronics website LINK and believe me that if I can follow them then anyone can.

He might be a grumpy bug-er but if you ask honest questions he will go all out to help.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Note:

Other grumpy bug-ers are available………..and a few much grumpier!

DM

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Don't sell yourself short Dave, I've worked with lots of grumpy bug-ers and you're the only one that ever impressed me.

[Keith HoodParticipant @keithhood50293]

Thank you so much guys, what a fantastic response and Tony Hadley, Ive seen that link and that is quite amazing.

Its better than the instructions that come with the kit Thanks again, brilliant.

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