Guardsman by Vic Smeed

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Tony

No rivets, hey?

Then it`ll be a welded structure?……lol

Bob

[Ian GardnerParticipant @iangardner62867]

Well done Tony- looks fantastic.

Give the chap a chance- it's a bit early for rivets as the plating isn't even finished yet. Expo sell nice fine hypodermic syringes which would be ideal for applying PVA rivets! Or do what I did and use a cocktail stick.

How will you waterproof the plating Tony? Not much chance of rubbing it down especially if you do rivet. It occurs to me something like Eze-Kote would be good- if your credit rating is still OK!

I remember my Guardsman weighed about 4 1/2 lbs all up- not much really.

Keep up the good work…Ian

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Welded structure, in the 1920's wouldn't they have used countersunk rivets.

Thanks for the reminder about Eze-Kote, which would be ideal for water proofing. When I saw the price though, can only hope my credit rating is ok, as a Wonga loan would be required.

Tony

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Can't have plates without rivets!

Try a cocktail stick and PVA………?

Don't you need to show every one, either

Paint and varnish will do for sealing

Bob

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Bob,

The comment re:countersunk rivets was just my sense of humour, should have written lol afterwards.

Must agree plates wouldn't look right without rivets, even though Jim Pottinger says with the MSC Archer plan to leave them off at this scale. Haven't really got round to thinking about them too deeply yet, either a hypodermic syringe (as suggested by Ian) or a cocktail stick with pva sound good. I plan to experiment with scrap card first.

Tony

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Plating is now complete except for the row at the deck (which won't be done until after the deck is fixed). Next to think about are the rivets, a stand and the motor installation. The ESC for a brushed motor, earlier in this thread, has now been claimed for the winter project to de-steam the Glasgow paddle tug, I am now reverting back to the original idea to go brushless with this model.

The 3mm liteply deck was too rigid and didn't flex enough for the hull's shape. I tried a series of saw cuts on the underside which improved things slightly, however I've now decided to go back to the original idea of a layer of 1.5mm balsa, with a top veneer of 0.8mm birch ply which will give a good surface to mark the lines. The cabin cut-outs on original deck template were approx 3mm out of position and luckily this error was noticed before any cutting to the new deck.

A couple of photographs of the nearly complete plating and one of the revised deck template.

Tony

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Tony

If Jim says leave the rivets off…..I would do just that!

As it is, adding rivets at this stage is almost impossible!

You could have rivets on the top row of plates for effect, but punch them in the card before glueing to the hull

Bob

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hello Tony

build looking nice, as for deck i used .8mm ply with added coffee stirrer planking ,

it is tight camber deck , cheers Larry..

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Thanks Bob and Larry for the food for thought, whilst the stand is built and the motor is fitted.

Larry, you are quite right about the deck, hence the srapping of the 3mm liteply deck and replacement with two sheets. Don't think I will go to the trouble of individual planks. I plan to use 0.8mm birch ply (which can be lined) on top of 1.5mm balsa.

Bob, I was reading the book on the RMS Titanic, a Modelmakers Manual (which I won in this site's competition) and all the rivets except the ones near the top of the hull were countersunk, so my earlier quip was actually true. Your thought to add round head rivets at the top, would really look a very attractive feature. At the club last Sunday an ex marine engineer was also giving the advice that rivets were regularly countersunk.

Meanwhile, I am going to do what is not advised, have more than one model under constuction at the same time (although in this instance, one will be under modification). Time to start a new project, stripping the steam plant out of the Glasgow. I will tell my tales of woe with the modification in a new thread, which I hope to start next week. It will be necessary to take some photographs and made some sketches first.

Tony.

Edited By Tony Hadley on 08/09/2013 20:58:44

Edited By Tony Hadley on 08/09/2013 20:59:30

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Some further progress,

The stand was built from 10mm ply.

The first deck was cut from 1.5mm balsa. As this will be covered by a lined 0.8mm ply deck, it was cut from three strips, which was what I had in stock. If I could have nipped to the model shop and bought a sheet I would have used that, but as we have discussed on a regular basis this would now be an internet order. Need to fit the motor before this deck can be glued in place. I was really pleased with this deck as the access cut-out matched up with the bulkheads.

This one is a pleasure to build,

Tony.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Tony

It`s nice to hear that you are enjoying the build

Don`t forget to wipe over the back of the card with a damp cloth before you glue it down, as the card distorts with the PVA…..And I would seal the balsa first?

The best of luck

A tricky job

Bob…..Done some!

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hello Tony,

Coming on well and nice tidy build , do no what motor you are fitting..?…

its a tight fit for running gear so have a dummy run on gear,

i have several requests for sale on mine,

but not yet…..cheers Larry….

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Motor now fitted, the angled balsa motor block was sanded to the correct angle to give correct coupling alignment. I wasn't happy at fixing the motor straight on the balsa and have fixed the motor onto two spruce strips, these are then glued on to the angled balsa block.

Although I will be using 2.4ghz radio, I've fitted capacitors to the motor, to prevent interference to other models on 27/40mhz, all as what Dave Milbourne says in his item on electric/electronics in the latest MB Special. The capacitors are from the local Maplins.

Tony

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Tony

It's nice to see some progress on your Guardsman once more

I hope Vic Smeed didn't show the motor base made from Balsa?

Bob

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hello Tony,

Same set up as mine, are you going to coat in side of hull with any thing ,

to seal against water incress , nice tidy build , and smart stand ,…..Larry…

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Bob, the material for the motor block isn't specified, hope you like my solution, which sounds to be the same as Larry's. Must admit, progress has been slow, life seems full of other things to do, although I've started to de-steam the Glasgow, hoping to show in a new thread soon.

Larry, I am thinking of giving the inside a coat of eze-coat before a coat of white acrylic Aqua-Color. Afterwards the deck can be glued on. What did you do to finish the inside of yours?

Tony

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hi Ton

my hull is moulded styrene , but on all my plank on frame i use f/g resin ,

brushed in and a bandage on stress points if needed nice water tight job cheers Larry..

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

hi there tony just been reading through your build and I have thoroughly enjoyed it. Nice to see someone building models from traditional timbers for a change.

I have built this model myself – a few years ago – when I planked the hull i did it with Obechi planking and then covered it with  fibreglass tissue and resin and if I remember correctly its either sterident tablets tube or alka seltza tube which is the correct diameter and has the correct shape at the top for the funnel.

The other thing I did, on the plan the bridge door is on the front of the bridge – I opted to make 2 doors either sides of the bridge.

Keep on with the good build, I will be following.

aye

john

Edited By bluebird on 22/10/2013 19:23:25

Edited By bluebird on 22/10/2013 19:24:14

Edited By bluebird on 22/10/2013 19:24:54

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Thanks for the positive feedback John. It is always good to hear what others think.

Did you take any photographs of your model? Would be nice to see if so.

Tony

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

hi ya there Tony

no pics of my guardsman build; it was built pre-digital box-brownie camera time or was it the glass negative plate time cant remember

Originally, I built mine as a bit of an experiment to try out a homemade electronic speed controller from a book and also if I remember rightly it was my first venture into rechargable batteries and it was originally run on 6 x AA rechargables and when the NiCad packs came onto the scene with the Tamiya connections, I swapped over to that battery pack. Its a nice model for using on scale sailing courses and competitions and the addition I did was increased the size of the rudder to help in the reversing manouvres during the courses.

I will put a couple of pictures on when I get if off the shelf and clean the dust off it. KEEP ON WITH YOUR GOOD BUILDING

aye

john

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

John
Where on earth do you keep all those beautiful models? There surely isn't room in your workshop!
Dave M

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

John, I'm really impressed with your Guardsman. Any further pictures would be most welcome, it's nice to get an old model off the shelf and give it a dusting now and again. Must only guess you're like the rest of us in this hobby – too many projects and too little time. As Dave says where on earth do you keep them all.

Dave, nice to see you appear in this thread, guess my motor & capacitor set up must be ok, otherwise I think you would have advised.

Tony

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hello Bluebird,

Nice to see you on a sane web site , that is super model of Guardsman,

crew is a added format, must get back to mine one day , the on pool action is amazing,

hope you add some build ideas , great stuff you build cheers Larry…

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

Hi ya Tony

Rather than fill your postings up with photographs, I will take a few pics and put them in my albums and that way they can be seen, but we can keep your topic to your excellent build and not be sidelined or distracted from it

aye

john

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