fuse!

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

fuse!

This topic is empty.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

Author

Posts
13 June 2016 at 20:43 #66012
Paul Quarrell
Participant
@paulquarrell63854
My very slow build of Joffre contnues! I am now reading everything on rc, electronics and installation. I have a 15 Amp viper ESC to install with a 6V SLA battery. I am going with pre-fitted tamiya connectors from Mtroniks. Having read a lot of posts i am opting to include a 10 amp fuse on the live leg between battery and ESC – -my simple question is how best to fit this? Does it need to be on a circuit board and if so how do the wires attach (picture would be good) or a spade connector fuse (again how would this be installed? is this left loose in the hull? Thanks for help and comments in advance!!

Paul
Advert

13 June 2016 at 20:43 #2602
Paul Quarrell
Participant
@paulquarrell63854
best way to fit a fuse
13 June 2016 at 21:01 #66015
Colin Bishop
Moderator
@colinbishop34627
Our resident Guru, Dave Milbourn, would suggest a blade fuse, see here: **LINK**

He is too experienced to fit fuses but I am too cautious not to!

Just fit it somewhere convenient between the battery and ESC, convention dictates the positive lead but either will do.

Colin
13 June 2016 at 21:02 #66016
Banjoman
Participant
@banjoman
Paul,

I put a very similar installation into my Eilean Mòr Cyde Puffer.

Here are the bits and bobs, connected up for testing on the workbench …

… and here you can see the ESC and fuse holder in place in the ship

As you can see, the fuse is a simple EU Mini Blade Fuse in a fuse holder, both of which were bought from the Component Shop: **LINK**. The fuse itself is 10A, and both the fuse holder and the ESC are held in place with self-adhesive velcro.

The fuse holder could of course have been just left loose in the hull with no ill effects, but I though that it did make sense to install it where it would be as easy as possible to get at, in case the fuse should blow and would have to be replaced. So far this has not happened, but still …

In any case, I hope the above is of some help to you

/Mattias

Edited By Banjoman on 13/06/2016 21:03:23

Edited By Banjoman on 13/06/2016 21:03:38

Edited By Banjoman on 13/06/2016 21:05:28
13 June 2016 at 21:05 #66017
Gareth Jones
Participant
@garethjones79649
Paul,

There are several types of in line fuse readily available from suppliers such as Component Shop, Maplins or car accessory shops, see the link for an example **LINK**. Either the blade type or cylindrical type of fuse can be used, the choice is yours.

If you are just using a single fuse its probably easiest to use the supplied wires and either solder them into your own wiring or use them directly as the wiring for that part of the circuit. They can just be secured alongside your other wiring using cable ties, but make sure you have access to get in and change the fuse at some point in the future.

You can use panel mounted fuses but its probably only worth doing that if you have particularly complicated electrics and want multiple fuses of different ratings for different circuits.

Gareth
13 June 2016 at 21:11 #66018
Gareth Jones
Participant
@garethjones79649
Paul,

I forgot to include the picture I was going to use. It's in a TID tug and the fuse is an inline cylindrical one in the positive lead, just alongside the motor in the picture below.

Gareth
13 June 2016 at 21:13 #66019
Paul Quarrell
Participant
@paulquarrell63854
Posted by Banjoman on 13/06/2016 21:02:37:

Paul,

I put a very similar installation into my Eilean Mòr Cyde Puffer.

Here are the bits and bobs, connected up for testing on the workbench …

… and here you can see the ESC and fuse holder in place in the ship

As you can see, the fuse is a simple EU Mini Blade Fuse in a fuse holder, both of which were bought from the Component Shop: **LINK**. The fuse itself is 10A, and both the fuse holder and the ESC are held in place with self-adhesive velcro.

The fuse holder could of course have been just left loose in the hull with no ill effects, but I though that it did make sense to install it where it would be as easy as possible to get at, in case the fuse should blow and would have to be replaced. So far this has not happened, but still …

In any case, I hope the above is of some help to you

/Mattias

Edited By Banjoman on 13/06/2016 21:03:23

Edited By Banjoman on 13/06/2016 21:03:38

Edited By Banjoman on 13/06/2016 21:05:28

Hi Mattias thank you this is very helpful, being a bit thick sorry but is the fuse on the right hand side in the first picture on the +ve cable? thanks for your help. Paul
13 June 2016 at 21:14 #66020
Paul Quarrell
Participant
@paulquarrell63854
Posted by Gareth Jones on 13/06/2016 21:11:47:

Paul,

I forgot to include the picture I was going to use. It's in a TID tug and the fuse is an inline cylindrical one in the positive lead, just alongside the motor in the picture below.

Gareth

Gareth thank you this very useful and nothing beats a picture!
13 June 2016 at 21:16 #66021
Paul Quarrell
Participant
@paulquarrell63854
Thank you every one! you have all been of great help and i appreciate the speedy response! PAUL
13 June 2016 at 21:40 #66022
Banjoman
Participant
@banjoman
You are very welcome!, Paul

Here are my photos again, but this time with the fuse holder circled in red:

/Mattias
13 June 2016 at 22:43 #66024
Colin Bishop
Moderator
@colinbishop34627
For low current applications the cylindrical fuseholder is OK but the blade type are more positive and better for higher power applications. I tend to use the cartridge type fuseholders in my models which don't draw above 5 amps per motor.:

**LINK**

Colin
14 June 2016 at 08:39 #66031
Dave Milbourn
Participant
@davemilbourn48782
The problem with using the catrtridge fuses with any significant current is that the contact area is little more than a point – in this case the 'hump' formed by the solder and domed washer on the end of the cable. This creates a high resistance which can overheat and melt the fuse. I've seen it happen several times.

I would, as Colin says, advocate the automotive blade type for any application over about 2A. The in-line holder used by Banjoman is one up the scale from simple spade connectors, and if you want to be really flash there's the ACTion P95 which has screw terminals and a bi-colour diode to indicate which way the current is flowing! **LINK**

DM
14 June 2016 at 10:28 #66033
Malcolm Frary
Participant
@malcolmfrary95515
Having had a cylinder type fuse holder deform due to the fuse carrying near its rated load, I now avoid them. The warm fuse (and possibly the warmed contact area at each end) softens the plastic. The spring tension then allows the housing to stretch. This in turn reduces the spring tension and increases the contact point heating, making matters worse. The boat will stop before it has damage done, but it will always be a long way out.

Go for the blade type.
14 June 2016 at 20:27 #66040
Paul Quarrell
Participant
@paulquarrell63854
Thanks to every one and Dave and Malcolm for your replies. I think i have ticked of this module in my MBA (Model Boat Appreciation) course!! I will be using a blade type. PAUL more questions soon i'm sure!
Author

Posts