Hello Barry

What kit have you actually bought?

For building small static models, you won`t really need many tools, especially since you are building from a kit

I would suggest…..A couple of model knives, Make a few sanding blocks yourself, Small pliers,Tweezers, A dozen small plastic clamps, Bottle of PVA glue, Small vice etc

When you make a start, you`ll soon realise what tools you need

My advice is to take your time, work accurately and neatly

Post a few pictures of your progress. please?

Bob

Hello Barry

It may be a small model, but it will be a challenge!

It is essential to work slowly and precisely with this type of model

Planking is not difficult, but needs to be neat and tidy

If it`s any help, I `ll post my galleon thread and you`ll see what you are up against

**LINK**

Bob

Barry,

As you say, the Sherbourne is intended for the newcomer and you should not find it too difficult to make a good job of her. Just take things one step at a time and if you are flummoxed by any of the instructions then ask on here and I'm sure someone will be able to help.

We are intending to publish an article on basic tools for boat modelmakers but it is not due for publication until around late April/early May.

Colin

Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 31/01/2015 12:49:58

2. More basics and essentials, and some very useful but not quite so essential tools

• A steel ruler (or two): I have found extensive use for the 12 inch and the 6 inch ones shown in the photo below.
• Some paint brushes in different sizes and qualities. Genuine sable is in my view pretty much unbeatable, and if taken proper care of will last very very long. However, less expensive synthetics have their definite uses, and I also usually keep some really cheap kiddie watercolor brushes for brushing on e.g. diluted PVA glue or other stuff that I might fear could harm my more expensive brushes.
• Needle files in different grades and/or sizes. You can find quite inexepnsive sets of such files, or you can buy higher quality but rather more expensive ones one at a time. The three shapes I use the most are flat, round and triangular. There are also loose handles available for such files, although personally I seldom use these as I find that I get a good enough grip on the file shaft itself.
• Broaches and reamers for enlarging and/or cleaning up holes.
• Razor saws and mitre box. Very useful for cutting strip wood to the right length at correct angles. The flush saw is very handy for cutting off things flush with a surface – as the saw has no back ridge, it is flexible and can (within reason) be pushed flat against a surface.
• Miniature razor blade saw and fitting mitre box. For really fine precision saw work. Gives a finer cut than the razor saws.
• Reverse action (i.e. be defalut closed and opens when pressed) tweezers are often useful for holding small bits and pieces.
• Small try squares, set squares and miniature spirit levels are very useful for making sure that thinbgs that must be glued square are glued square; however, they're not really essential.

3. Non-essential but very useful hand tools

• Vernier calipers (analogue or digital) and/or a micrometer.
• Small luthier's plane.
• Precision digital scales: absolutely non-essential, but extremely useful for mixing paints to exact proportions and likewise for mixing expoxies and other two part stuff to equally exact mesure.
• A small machine vice.
• A pair of small goldsmith scissors for cutting thinner sheet metals.
• Spatulas for applying filler etc.
• Miniature chisels.
• Hole punches.
• Side cutters.

4. The one (almost) essential machine tool

A Dremel or similar (Proxxon, RotaTool, etc,. etc.) rotary electric multitool is not really essential, because you can go quite a long way without one; however, it is very very handy and useful indeed, and if one gets a suitable stand as well, it can become a small drill press too. If you are going to invest in small power tools, such a rotary multitool should, I think, be top of the list.

5. Absolutely non-essential but very nice to have power and other tools

• A soldering iron or (better but, alas!, much more expensive) a soldering station.
• A creme brulé type gas burner.
• Airbrush equipment.
• An ultrasonic cleaner.
• A good half-mask breathing protection.

The list can of course be made much, much longer, particularly on the power tool side, but for the job you are planning to undertake right now with HMS Sherbourne, I think you will find all the essentials under points 1 and 2 above.

I also think that you are taking the right approach by planning to buy your tools gradually and as you find that yiu need them. Should you come across a problem in your build that you feel you cannot really solve with what you already have, I'm sure you a simple description of the problem here on the forum will find plenty of ready advice on what tools and techniques might be of particular help.

Here's wishing you the best of luck and fun a-plenty!

/Mattias

Edited By Banjoman on 01/02/2015 17:10:38

I've been collecting tools over 50 years of modelling and there's some here that I don't have. My only advice would be not to buy according only to the price. I've lost count of the times I've done that and been disappointed. Cheap files and drill bits are especially tempting, as are cheap taps and dies. DON'T!!

Dave M

Hi Barry, I have been modelling for 20+ years [45+ models] and I don't think I have all that Mattias has shown.

My first build was the Viking ship from Billings, everything had to be cut out as there were no laser cut parts then. At least the wood sheet was printed with the plank shape (with 1mm thick lines!) My first tool was a small saw with two blades, I still have it and use it even now after 20years. At some point I got a table edge vice, ruler and a pin pusher for setting small nails into wood. A set of small files and sand paper also needed. That was it, I assume glue is a must, but not a tool. A plastic set square from a stationers (though a corner of paper is square) to set up the ribs.

My next build was a Bounty, and my tools expanded to include tweezers, scissors, scalpel with various blades (because they were there I thought I needed all different shapes) but now only ever use 10A blades. Another exacto saw with 3 blades, small archimedes drill and set of small drill bits. Pliers were handy but then what DIY man doesn't already have some. I've only just last year got round nose pliers for bending wire, for instance. The model was built.

You are starting with a kit, so almost all the major parts will be cut for you. AND, not seen it yet, you'll need a building board as long as the model to set up the basic ribs etc for squareness. Any piece of flat wood big enough to take the length and width of the boat, melamine shelf for example, so long as it is flat and level.

The big stiff was only ever thought of when I started scratch building, and then only as second hand stuff till I found I could use it. A pillar drill and dremmel, small motor craft lathe as I wanted to turn some spars etc. Only added things as I went along. There is no absolute kit, when you find a need for a tool then get one. Its the old adage, you buy a tool and then find you never use it. There are, as DM points out, some totally useless items around, cheap and nasty. For example, I do a lot of period ships and rigging. There is a rig sold for tying ratlines off the model and then you offer up your creation to the mast – my opinion – its useless.

I now have two band saws, two pillar drills and two table saws plus a router and a drills and reading lamps, magnifiers etc etc etc. I made a paint spraying booth,I have airbrushes. The list is endless, just buy when the need arises, but then only after you've looked around and asked what seems to be best for the job wanted.

Good luck with the build, I have Jotika's HMS Snake on the building board (started over 3 years ago), first planking almost completed. I always have several builds ongoing together, stops me getting bored with the one. And before that discussion starts, yes, do the two layers of planking. The first will be your first so experiment to get it nearly right. The second layer will then become much easier. This layer shows, so make it good.

I'll keep abreast of your build, at least there are some very good build threads for your model out there, but most of all, enjoy the experience and don't rush!

Aye, Kim