Hello David……..Bob Abell here!

I use a body filler called P51….it`s good stuff and you can sand it OK

You can get it from Halfords….in tubes and tins

See yer sometime……………Bob

Geezer! (i like to be informal, or i can use the alternative…Dude!     And Mr Bob..We have had a thread concerning everyones favourite filler/sealant before , have we not   ?

shall I make a list?    p38 two-part filler-uses a seperate hardener to make it set (like p51, slightly harder I think it is),  p51,   Araldite or similar two-pack epoxy,    No Nails/pink grip (various stuff from builders merchants..well sticky,quick setting, smooth with wet finger, dries hard)  Polyfilla- quick drying (tubes) ..very easy to sand, not so sticky as the car body fillers, ok on balsa/wood.   Fibreglass (resin& glass mat for bigger holes.) a bit messy but very strong, great for strengthening hulls etc  Knifing filler/putty..sold in car shops, similar Cellulose fillers in small tubes sold in model shops in various colours- very fine filler for scratches and dents or thin cracks etc, nicely sandable, reasonably quick drying, use straight out of the tube… must be a few more out there,

They all have their adherants (pun!!!) and all have their place, all will do once painted. Depends mostly on how big a gap you have to fill. Small gap…Araldite/wet finger to smooth, big gap…P38/p51 kitchen knife (dont let the missus see though)

And there`s a thing….paint……   Ashley

My hull has sprung a leak:

(1) injected vaseline into the Rudder and Prop tubes; the prop shaft was a little rusty so cleaned up and oiled it well the rudder was new. The vaseline came out like a worm when replacing the rudder and prop ! but hopefully will give a water tight seal without too much friction.

(2) The hull itself was a bit leaky near the keel; laminates of the plywood acted as a good water route. I used Model Lite Balsa Tint – its a non-shrinkable filler for wood, balsa, foam,  fibreglass etc. and can be sanded when dry.

(3)  Painting with Halfords Colour Pen and brush – used for scratch paint on cars and then a coating of matt varnish.

 Will be trying out this Sunday weather permitting.

tell you the truth ashley, i don’t honestly know. a mate gets it for me in "catering packs" from his car body suppliers in 4 kilo packs, and i’ve never taken notice of the brand.

i use so much using it for grp plugs though that to buy in small tins would cost me a fortune.

Did You hear about the boat modeller who wouldnot use P 38 just because it said CARbody filler. I use casting epoxy resin because it sticks like s8&% to an army blanket, and works its way into al the little crooks and nannys, and having done so, strengthens the hull enormouslymaking mine quite rigid. It’s a bit embarassing mind you if you pour epoxy resin into a hull that leaks, and it drips onto the carpet. A tip from an old scot, if I have a paint brush that has been ruined by solidified paint, I put the bristles on my anvil, and welly them with a two pound ball pein hammer. Then I carefully seperatethe bristles and hammer some more if there’s any paint left, until the brush is a useable paintbrush once more, then use it to spread resin around the inside of my hull, and any glass fibre project I have, very useful, it beats washing them out in acetone, but there’s another little tip, acetone will get unset resin out of the carpet, but it will leave some discolouration. CAUTION, acetone is highly inflammable, and not only removing all the natural oils from your skin, but could trigger off a nasty skin disorder  not to mention your lungs if you breathe the vapour in too much….

p,s if myhull is 100% wood, I just pour PVA Adhesive into it, a good source for which is SCRewfix, that sets like concrete, and can add loads of friction to your prop shaft if any goes astray My final word is, IF ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE BLOODY INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!