Vic Smeed’s Silver Mist

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Captain Bob

As we have discussed on many occasions Kevin is an avid follower of your projects and presumably learning a great deal from your 'warts and all' approach but there are times when you unconsciously let your zeal run away with you and you forget to explain some aspects of your model building philosophises.

For example your excellent advice regarding having the rudder square to the waterline didn't go on to explain why you, as an expert builder consider this to be important.

The other expert modellers who are following this thread might occasionally drop in to help with your explanations and then withdraw back into the shadows so as not to distract from your very individual style.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Paul, for your post and advice

I don't really think an explanation is justified?

The rudder should be square to the water line, purely for it's aesthetic quality only

One degree out in any direction, to an engineer stands out a mile…….Like a cock eyed picture on the wall!

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

In this case the explanation simply helps Kevin who might be confused as sometimes a boat / ship might not have a rudder that is square to the waterline.

DMs comment about the Moonbeam's rudder is a case in point where a brief explanation might be a huge help to Kevin in helping him understand.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

So it isn't really an "essential requirement" at all then? I'm rather relieved because I've spent ten minutes studying the photographs of Bob's model and I can't see any usable reference line on the hull save the bottom edge of the skeg. I'm off now to pick some nits elsewhere – promise!

DM

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Kevin

Perhaps I`ve not explained myself clearly enough for the discerning nit picker?

The water line is represented by a plank that rests on the keel at the stern, and packed up, 1.55" at the bows

There is a vertical hole in the plank, with a brass bush and it is used as a guide to drill a vertical hole, at right angles to the water line, through the hull and through the rudder deck

Bob

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Rudders can be fitted at all sorts of angles, it depends on the boat. Yachts frequently have single rudders which hang at an angle, sloping forward towards the keel. Modern yachts with twin rudders often have them splayed out to the sides at opposite angles so that when the boat is heeling one rudder is somewhere near the vertical and is more efficient.

Silver Mist has a conventional arrangement where the rudder is essentially vertical and in line with the keel.

Some vessels don't have rudders at all but let's not confuse Kevin….

Colin

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Work in progress

Does my B** look big in this?

Checking and adjusting the pointy tail end to be in line with the rudder axis

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Chaps: I am larfing too much to see the pictures properly!!

​Discerning nit-picker …its just toooo much !

I know what Bob means…a nice traditional boat like this has to have a vertical rudder. I fully agree.

Oddly enough I don't think any on my craft have anything BUT vertical (ish) rudders despite not being traditional, although only the Alvis has NO rudder as this is controlled by differential motor manipulation..and having said that it could do with a rudder to keep going in a straight line.

Are you going to use that (presumably GE) propeller Bob? or is it just there for effect?

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Ashley……..Pleased that you enjoyed the post

And you spotted the old GE prop too!………It's only there to stop the propshaft falling out

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Ho! Ho! Ho!…….This could be fun?

Going to make use of an old rudder………But the rudder shaft is too short

Need to extend it, using a short length of brass tube

The shaft needs to be turned down to 3 mm…..In the lathe……..For a nice soldered accurate joint

Due to the rudder blade being in the way, we will need to use the three point steady!

This is worth a look, Colin………..But be very careful!………..This could be quite dangerous, in the wrong hands!

Due to the rudder blade flying about!

This is the setup……

Rudder shaft in chuck with the end to be turned, loosely held in the drill chuck

The steady pads are adjusted to a nice running fit on the rudder shaft………Then the tailstock is moved out of the way

Avoid any loose clothing in the area,,,,,Ties especially

Be aware of the rudder blade hazard……..Rotate the chuck by hand, to ensure all is ready and safe

Switch on and carefully turn the shaft…….Turning a 4mm shaft needs special care, as it could dip and destroy itself

Eventually…….Job done

Due to problems with Win 10, the post will be released in stages

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Part 2

The rudder shaft is being turned

For small diameter jobs…….Use a very sharp tool

Note the dangerous rotating blade

In the real world, this operation is highly dangerous

When I was a turner in the fifties, it was a common practice……..Turning gear shift arms

Sadly, I witness some ghastly accidents

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

The post is being fragmented, because I can't locate the stored photos

No doubt, all will be clear shortly

The final assembly

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

A club member has donated an old looking motor to the project

It`s an MFA "Marlin"……..Same size as an MFA 850

High Torque Marine motor….12 volts…..5100 rpm…..68 watts

Could be a suitable motor from the Good Old Days, that Vic would approve?

Many thanks Jimmie

Any good?

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob. I think that this is what the 800/850 motors were called (Marlin) before they were called 800/850.
At 5100 rpm yours would be an 800 and a suitable choice.
Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Many thanks, Ashley

I thought it would be suitabell…….The number of times, I've come across it in the junk drawer, wondering whether to fling it or not!

It will give the model……Character!

At the moment, progress is slowing down, I'm in need of a 2mm sheet for the deck…..and we've run out of model shops!

Nearest shops are 40 miles and 60 miles away!

Hmmmmmmm………I've got a sheet of Hardboard here?

Ah well……Back to the hull

Bob

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

You could order some from SLEC Bob **LINK** The postage is unlikely to be more than driving costs to the model shops.

Colin

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Colin

We will be going past either of the two model shops within the next week……..On the way to Wales

I need a few port holes anyway

I know Slec is a good source, I've used them a few times

Have you seen the turning demo with the three point steady, a few pages back?

Useful to be aware

Bob

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Bob/All

SLEC are doing cheap Birch ply with external laminations across ie 60" x 12" x 1/8" cost £1.96 !! Great for bulkheads etc. just had 5 sheets delivered

Regards Ray

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Ray

Thanks for letting us know about this great deal.

All the best

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Many thanks Ray

I`ve had a look at the Slec website and quite surprised at the low prices

I`ll get some on order……Right away

Hi Paul

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Captain

Fancy us two missing such a good deal, it just goes to show that you have to keep your eyes open.

Big thanks to Ray

Well done on the lathe master class, there aren't many who could turn such a narrow section without it whipping all over the workshop.

I'm looking forward to seeing the superstructure on the Silver Mist so get yur finger out.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

All in good time, Doc!

Another set up

Set at water level………With the keel sloping up at 1.6" and the rudder vertical

It has the look of a trawler and takes some getting used to

The port holes should improve matters………Tomorrow

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Work in progress……Progress at last!

Painted the inside of the hull, prior to fitting the lid

Quite a lot of the inside is quite inaccessible, once the top is glued in place

Did have a few more pix to post, but the Win10 Gremlins are still active!

Bob

 

Edited By Bob Abell on 01/06/2016 18:38:38

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Chaps

Filled out all the paperwork for 12 sheets of assorted ply from Slec, but fell at the last hurdle!

The system couldn`t cope for some strange reason……..So it was Plan B after all

Cheap type 3mm ply offcut from the local shop……….With the grain going the wrong way

It was 3mm with a 2.5mm core and 0.25mm skins……..But it didn`t like bending, camberwise!

Soon persuaded it to cooperate though………I cut the skin underneath, with the scalpel, up and down the sheet and it was instantly pliable

Just look how handy those portholes are!……….Ideal for the lacky band anchorages

And for good measure……..The water treatment

I rather like the idea of building this model from salvaged recycled assorted grot, lying about the floor?

Just decided to use an old MFA BOB`S type board for the Speed Controller now……..Feel sure, Vic would approve?

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

How`s this for the Fickle Finger of Fate?

The controller being recycled is off a previous model…………."Starlet"………..By Vic Smeed himself!

What could be better?

Bob

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