Barrel Back….

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

John

 

Thanks for the PM and the invite.

The wood is mahogany and has been cut from a single plank to ensure colour consistency.

I used my bench saw fitted with a veneer blade to slice along the grain to cut identical 3mm thick planks.

I chose the diagonal planking method to show the mahogany to its best effect as I like the feather appearance.

Yes you can buy ready cut veneer but this has the problem of colour consistency and has ready fitted heat activated glue which is not waterproof and is difficult to remove from the veneer.

The varnish is the standard yacht type (B&Q) which I shall use to build up the 40 coats but the final 2 coats will be International yacht varnish.

Paul

[Dr John BoothParticipant @drjohnbooth43899]

Hi Paul

 

Sorry for the delay in answering I’ve had a few things to sort out.

 

I understand why you cut your own planks but why change from B&Q varnish to International varnish?  I thought all yacht varnish was made to the same specification.

 

The boat looks perfect and I do like the red leather (?) interior.

 

When will the medics and Jane let you get back to work and will you be showing it this year at Birchwood?

 

The invite is still open.

 

John

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Paul. It may be worth making the fittings out of brass, and having them bright nickel plated, it shouldn`t cost too much, and would be relatively easy to do. I have been collecting O gauge clockwork trains over the last few years, and some time ago bought a massive collection of rail for it, in only so-so condition, and took the stuff that I needed to a platers, and it only cost me 50p a bit to have re tin plated, which I thought very good (I only had 230 bits-including points- to do!!!). It looks fabulous now, and they de-rust it with acid before hand…it looks stunning. Funny, but I was looking for a few items for my Fantome,which is a bit basic, on the equipment side,however the grab and pulpit rails are chrome, and so any fittings,bollards/cleats/whatever….would need to be shiny silver to match, and there `aint that much out there…loads of plastic of course,but nowt shiney.   Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Ashley

 

Good tip about the platers I will have a look for one near to me.

 

I have only had a brief look for fittings and so far have found nothing to suit but like the Fantome they will need to be shiney.

 

Hi John

 

I will be laid up for at least 2 more weeks so I will have plenty of time to make the interior…no its not real leather its leatherette I got a huge 2m x 2m piece and the same size wadding for a fiver.

 

I don’t know about showing it at Birchwood as I don’t think it’s good enough, after all it isn’t detailed or complex, it’s just big and shiney.

 

Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

John

 

Sorry I missed your question about varnish, the B&Q stuff is good for exterior work like garden tables and does give a nice shine but the Internation range of yacht paints / varnish are the best that I have ever come across.

 

I am using the B&Q varnish to build up the levels but for the final 2 coats it will be the International varnish for the deep shine and long lasting strong finish.

 

If anyone wishes to buy the barrel back I will be selling it as soon as it is completed.

 

Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Good News (at least for me)

 

I am doing some light work on the barrel back in the form of varnish and wet & drying, the boat is on the lounge floor and I stayed up late last night getting a coat of varnish on the deck.

Its looking super now but still needs a few more coats of varnish to produce the mirror finish.

 

Paul

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Hi Paul progress seems to be going well all things considered. thanks again for the plans I’m almost ready to start work on the frame but before I start can any of you Knowledgeable chaps point me in the right direction for prop shafts, best price etc. as I reckon it might just be an idea to know the diameter before I start laying the keel down. Here’s hoping I can get somewhere close to the quality you’re achieving here Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Phil

Thank you for the kind words,

I haven’t got around to fitting the prop shaft in my boat yet as I can’t decide on the power plant.

I still want to fit IC but would be restricted in where I could sail it, or have to sail when nobody is watching (joke) so I guess that I am stuck with a big electric unit.

When I do fit the shaft I shall be making my own out of copper tube, 6mm threaded bar and some gunmetal for bearings.

I intend to fit a 50mm 3 bladed prop but will leave room under the hull just in case I want to upgrade to a 60mm version.

Don’t forget to post some progress photos.

Paul

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Now why didn’t I think of that eh Paul I take it a geasing nipple would be a good idea as I’m building at 1m length and so putting app a 30mm prop on will I really need a 6mm shaft and at the length I’ll be using would a centre bearing be a good idea

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Apoint to apply lubricant is a good idea but I am going to use light oil as grease will bind on he shaft.

If you build the shaft in two halves you can insert a central bearing and a lubrication point all in one go.

I am using 6mm to take the torque of the large engine / prop.

 

Paul

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Thanks Paul you Have  just confirmed my thinking I’m going for a 4mm commercial stainless shaft for the benefits of the longevity and only £10 on fleabY for an 18″ version, prob won’t want one quite that long. As for grease I was actually thinking of silicone switch grease which I’ve found on the boat I’ve got works really well even though the prop shaft is below the water line at both ends nothing ever comes in and with my grandson at the helm it spends quite a lot of time in reverse  Is there a simple way to determine the best speed/rpm for a prop to get the best out of it. I’m assuming they are available in different pitch/blade combinations I really need to work out the gearbox settings soon

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Phil

 

There is a table of revs/power to prop size but I cant lay my hands on mine (lost it) but I am sure one of our members will be able to tell you.

 

Paul

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

I’ll have a nose round the forum the mate cheers

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Re: how much it costs to scratch build I had a think last night about how much this model had cost me so far.
To date, without electrics and engine I have spent less than £40.

Of course this doesn’t include tools but it does help to demonstrate that you don’t have to spend huge amounts of money to have fun with model boats.

Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Latest photos

 

Seats 1st fix and ski seat 1st fix

 

The varnish is not quite there yet.

 

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

 

You haven`t posted for a while…………..No wonder.!…………..You`ve progressed really well and it looks a treat!

 

What did you make your seats out of?……………….I like shine and the carpentry!

 

Have you made any progress……………motorwise?

 

Looking really nice…………………….Bob

 

Today should have been JDAW day…………….but was confined to barracks………………just had the drive done and I can`t get out of the house!

 

Bob again

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

beautiful Paul,

Just beautiful.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Bob

The seats have an mdf frame and are covered with leatherette these are my 4^th attempt as I am no good at upholstery.

I have a chunky ripmax 12v motor and 2:1 chain driven gears but I’ve not started the installation yet.

Neil

Thanks for the kind words old friend, I’ve almost finished the hull lines for the Orry and will email them to you when done.

Paul

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Looks  superb Paul, I bet you are pleased with it.

 

Colin

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Thanks Colin

 

Yes I am pleased with it even though I have been tempted to short cut the varnish work and spray on a shiny surface.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

cheers paul.

you are a star.

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

This is looking so good paul. just hope mine comes out somewhere near this good. hopefully my build thread will be started some time next week as I get enough done to photo, I’ve got the motor and gear box sorted 7.2v motor running twin props through a 1.9 to 1 reduction and a bevel gear at each end of a transverse lay shaft running the prop shafts. the motor will pull a max of about 80 amps so I reckon it will prob run at something like a reasonable pace. once again lovely job mate a real inspiration I must say.  hope your health is ok these days

cheers Phil

Edited By Phil Winks 1 on 21/04/2009 21:14:21

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Phil

Looking forward to seeing your build but I have to admit to being a little nervous that I might have missed out some important details in the design.

80amps is a huge amount of power for a motor to pull so I am intrigued about what type of motor are you using.

Paul

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Paul

 

wow !  

 

Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Cheers Ashley

 

Its not been floated yet as its to big for the domestic test tank so I hope that the calculations are correct or I am going to look like a right fool.

 

Paul

 

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