Exciting development!

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Mark

 

I prefer the hull axle method, it`s much simpler than rollers down below.

 

The axle makes sure the drum stays in one place, should there be any rock and rolling out to sea!

 

Besides the bottom of the hull is not an easy shape to work with….compound curves etc

 

But thanks for the suggestion

 

Bob

[Mark Beard 1Participant @markbeard1]

Whichever method you choose, I can’t wait to see the end result.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Mark

 

Well, you didn`t have to wait long!

 

Finished the cable drum and it fits ok!

 

What a big step forward in this very exciting project, eh?

 

Now for the hull!………..Quite a tricky job, deciding the best spot for the axle……but great fun, all the same!

 

Bob in his element!

[Mark Beard 1Participant @markbeard1]

Wow, what took you so long?

How about closest position to the C of G?

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Mark

 

There`s no problem with the centre of gravity, as the keel is fully adjustable.

 

The tricky bit is the height………. to allow easy runoff, of the cable when it`s fully wound and also allow a smooth run to the winch tube……having to dodge the paddle motordrive in the meantime

 

Isn`t it a lucky break, getting the axle above the waterline?

 

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

The cable drum in the bowels of the hull

Made good progress today

 

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

The drum spindle is retained by two wingnuts

 

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Primitive cable winder ……..with drum brake and cable brake and it works quite well………… the brakes help to control the alignment of the cable. As we need to rewind 150 metres back onto the drum for the next run etc

 

Thinking about a handle now…….Mmmm

 

Bob

[Mark Beard 1Participant @markbeard1]

Looking good Bob.

 

Mark

[DuckyParticipant @ducky]

Looking good Bob, A handle won’t be any trouble for a modeller of you caliber.

Just need some calmer weather now to test run it all and film it for the views to see.

Who was that director of “The cruel Sea” , Oh well you will just have to do with me !

Keep at it Bob, marvelous job.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Duckie

 

Welcome back!

 

The tricky bit with the handle, is that the drum has just a plain bore, so a drive dog device is required and involves a bit of head scratching!.

No doubt I`ll sort in out shortly

 

I think the Cruel Sea chap was Nick Monseratt

 

Bob

[Mark Beard 1Participant @markbeard1]

With axle supports both sides, and short studs, I don’t see a dog drive working unless you remove one support and cantilever off the other (rather impractical). Your options are probably a friction drive to the drum rim, or fitting a handle to an extension to one of the studs (preferably the one which tightens as you re-wind).

 

I know you’ll fix it without my input, I just love head-scratching of this sort!

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

There yer go!………Handle fitted!

It has a square brass square socket, sunk into the drum flange and a drive dog on the spindle and can simply be withdrawn from the handle side

 

Mark, I hope you`re right about the 320 metres, as I think we only need 150 metres max.

My using 150, I could probably get away with some untidy rewinding?

 

Bob

[Mark Beard 1Participant @markbeard1]

Hey, delighted to be proved wrong about not being able to make a dog drive with both mountings!

 

I’d feel happier with my calculations if someone else cross-checked them, I already made one mistake. But so long as I’m good to a factor of 2, you should be pretty safe! Personally I always like to have some margin in hand anyway, you never know what reality will do to you on the day.

 

If it was me, I’d try to rewind as neatly as possible as crossing the turns on the drum could cause a foul-up on cable laying. If the tension is reasonable and it’s wound evenly, then it may well lay neatly by itself. But you may need tapered flanges for it to work at the ends of each layer.

[DuckyParticipant @ducky]

How’s Joyce going to lift that pan without a handle Bob!

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Duckie

 

The handle is off an old clock and the lever is the rim of our old letterbox!

 

The wire clamp knob is off an old drawer……(Not shown)

 

I knew they would come in handy one day!……..It`s so satisfying!

 

Steptoe

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob, that handle almost looks victorian…

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Winder finished…….remade the wire clamp
Forgot to mention that the base was made from an inverted nut selection box from Christmas!……It was too nice to throw away!

 

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Things are moving now chaps!

 

For Jonathan and Peter……..This is the sample of wire I recieved from forum member, Mark. Not got a ref number………Any info, Mark?

The wire measures 1,90mm outside diameter

 

Bob

[Mark Beard 1Participant @markbeard1]

Yes Bob, the wire is from Maplin, stock code XR15R, and is available at £0.39 per meter for lengths exceeding 100 meters. (Shorter than that is £0.79 per m, so it’s worth buying in bulk).

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/miniature-single-core-lapped-screen-119

Would be worth checking that they can supply you with 200m (or whatever length you want) in one piece, rather than having to join it and seal it, and still expect it to pass through your equipment smoothly.

 

Mark.

Edited By Billysugger on 26/05/2011 12:47:52

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Mark

 

Thank you for the cable info………Now we are getting somewhere!

 

At the moment I don`t know the length of cable required……It depends on the lake selected. The price seems just about right too!

 

Don`t think a splice joint would run through the system without snagging?

 

Thank you once again for your input on this project

 

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Got some info on the test…….

 

The cable will run from both sides of the lake

 

On each bank there will be a control box, housing a specially constructed Mirror Galvanometer with lamp and scale.

 

Morse code will be sent via a “Paddle device” which has three positions……”Neutral”, “left” and “right” The Paddle sends the mirror to the left or right and these two positions are the DOT and DASH in Morse code

 

After sending a few historic messages, a second test calls for the cable to fail….as it did in 1868.

 

The cable will be cut in mid lake, for a bit of drama, and reconnected with a fine fuse.

Signals will continue to be sent until the fuse blows.

 

The cable will be repaired and the Galvanometers will have the internal lamps removed for the final test, whereby, only the mirrors will be active to observe that signals are being sent.

 

Test over……Great Eastern sails off into oblivion!

 

Bob

 

 

 

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Gosh, so easy !! you will not even break sweat over this.

 

Ash….

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ashley

 

Easy or not………We`ll be there for two days!………….22nd and 23rd August 2011

 

And to be honest….I feel a bit edgy!

 

It will be a very exciting time for us…….Me, Ducky and brother Geoff for moral support

 

Bob

[Mark Beard 1Participant @markbeard1]

I’m sure you’ll have plenty of opportunity to practice on your local lake. And I’m sure you’ll have scale cable-markers at the shoreline too, to keep other model props away!

 

If the nerves get to you, a wee flask of Spey water always helps (so long as you’re not at the controls).

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