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Graupner Glasgow

Conversion to electric from steam and other repairs

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Ian Gardner03/11/2013 13:20:33
563 forum posts
1 photos

I missed this Tony and have just compared both photos- before and after. It's surprising how much difference it makes- and a great improvement.

Ian

Tony Hadley03/11/2013 13:48:41
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897 forum posts
536 photos

Thank-you Ian, it is always re-assuring to have another pair of eyes look over a change from the original (kit manufacturers) design. Hopeful to finish the second paddle box either tonight or tomorrow night. Next steps are to make a motor stand and repair the rigging.

Tony

Tony Hadley12/11/2013 14:54:10
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897 forum posts
536 photos

Ian,

Since the last post, I came across this November/December 1991 RCBM magazine, on ebay, which has an excellent item on the Glasgow by Ray Brigden. The model in the magazine puts many Glasgows in the shade (mine included) and the magazine is well worth obtaining for anyone who is building, owns or wishes to own the paddler. Whether Graupner's new owners will re-release the kit in the future is anyones guess.

glasgow rcbm.jpg

This photograph from the magazine item, is of the individual paddle wheel drive system which I will be looking to achieve in the future ( hopefully next winter). Ray uses meccano brackets to support the central shaft bearings. He does comment in the text that engineers will frown on the use of these brackets, but they do the job. For mine I will look for something better, but the idea looks right. The plan is to use a second MFA motor and make a similar conversion to plastic chain drive. Colin Bishop has commented in another thread about using gears within a 'sound box' (hull) and my thoughts are only to keep the existing Graupner 3:1 gear drive for the coming season. Bob has posted a similar, but single chain drive set-up earlier in the thread.

glasgow rcbm (2).jpg

Tony

Ian Gardner12/11/2013 16:53:16
563 forum posts
1 photos

This looks just the job Tony and I suppose with any sort of mechanical drive you will get some noise. One of our club members uses this type of plastic chain drive in all sorts of amazing boats with great success. The last I saw was a rather splendid paddle shark!

All the best,

Ian

Tony Hadley15/01/2014 23:38:25
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897 forum posts
536 photos

Further progress made with this conversion. In order to raise the motor to the correct height for the gears to mesh a pair of handed aluminium brackets were made and are shown in the photograph.

I decided to keep the model on the 40mhz 4 channel Sanwa radio for the coming sailing season and additional motor suppression capacitors needed to be soldered on. The motor was supplied with the across terminals capacitor already fitted, however as a precaution two additional motor terminal to motor case ceramic bead capacitors were soldered in place.

glasgow de-steam (6).jpg

glasgow de-steam (7).jpg

Tony

Bob Abell16/01/2014 07:15:07
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8899 forum posts
2781 photos

Hello Tony

It's only a suggestion, but you could have made the pinion shaft a bit longer and fit an outboard bearing, to reduce the overhang

Would be nice?

Bob

Tony Hadley16/01/2014 07:40:12
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897 forum posts
536 photos

That's an excellent idea Bob.

Motor shaft is 6mm diameter and the bore of the pinion is 5mm. The brass shaft adapter is an MFA 6 to 5 pre-made and is longer than I would have liked. I thought about having a shorter adapter made at a local engineers as I no longer have access to a lathe, the idea discounted as it probably will only be a drive system for one season before a twin motor chain drive conversion (similar to yours) is undertaken during next winters building period.

Further thoughts on your suggestion - it wouldn't be to difficult to use a longer 5mm shaft which would extend the through the pinion and then fix a support bracket to either the underside of the deck or the wooden floor.

Thanks,

Tony

Dave Milbourn16/01/2014 23:11:47
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3998 forum posts
282 photos

Just to mention that these MFA motors are VERY "noisy" electrically and MUST have three suppressor capacitors fitted. It's something of a myth that this isn't necessary if you're using 2.4GHz radio, because there are still large spikes of back-EMF voltage which would otherwise travel down the power lines to the speed controller and create a lot of mischief.
They cost pennies and are easily fitted, and they take away probably the largest potential source of radio problems in the model.
Do it - you know it makes sense!
Dave M

Tony Hadley17/01/2014 23:53:02
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897 forum posts
536 photos

Dave,

The worst motor I ever had for noise was a small little cheap nasty in a fishing boat. Even fitting capacitors didn't take all the noise away. I called at the local model shop and a technial rep was in at the time, he advised to fit diodes to take the noise away. I didn't do it, instead I bought a Monoperm with a manufactured suppressor extension which clipped on the back. It meant the additional work of making a new motor mount. Should have bought a decent motor in the first place.

To omit the capacitors (from this or any model) would mean firstly trying the model and hoping a problem doesn't occur. If it does, it would be a case of removing the motor and retro-fitting the caps -- may as well fit them in the first place! As you rightly say the cost is minimal and fitting time is minutues whist the soldering iron is in use for soldering the leads on to the motor terminals.

My thoughts,

Tony

Bob Abell18/01/2014 07:44:04
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8899 forum posts
2781 photos

Hello Tony

My Ellie Cruiser runs dreadfully erratic......Nobody pointed  finger at motor interference!

I used to think that Capacitors were a waste of time!.....lol

But now, I realise that I may need them after all

Many thanks for highlighting the need

Will try it.....Bob

Edited By Bob Abell on 18/01/2014 07:45:15

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