|RON HALE||06/08/2012 12:22:35|
|5 forum posts|
I have recently completed the construction of the Glasgow PS but have run into a problem
when giving it a bath test. It appears to require considerable ballast but where to put it?
No mention of ballast in the instructions ? Does it mean cutting access holes in the deck ?
Does anyone have a sensible answer to this problem? I had no other problems with the
Ron (new to forum)
|Terry Plumridge||06/08/2012 20:52:45|
|86 forum posts|
Hi Bob, I am following this thread with great interest. The Glasgow is one of the models on my shortlist for my winter build. Please keep the updates coming, if you have time of course.
|Bob Abell||06/08/2012 21:37:05|
8899 forum posts
Many thanks for looking in!
|Paul T||07/08/2012 07:06:53|
7140 forum posts
Ron has raised an interesting, and for him a worrying problem.
As an experienced paddler yourself and given that you are building the same kit how would you solve the problem.
|Bob Abell||07/08/2012 07:42:04|
8899 forum posts
A tricky problem for Ron, since his model is complete!
In his case, I would test float the boat in the bath and add ballast on the deck temporarily and see how much much weight we're talking about?
Can you do that Ron and come back to us with the info, please?
For my model, I may adopt the GE style of keel weight, but the plastic hull would need beefing up!
I think a low down waterline might be nice, so that the paddles have some work to do and hence some visible paddle wash?
308 forum posts
My first ever build was the Robbe Comtess'a and in that you added 1.8 kg of lead balls as in fishermans weights down the keel and then added a drop of epoxy to fix it in place, I only added .8 kg and a gull wing at 1Kg. But would it be poss-abell to use this method though a small hatchway, might be a bit more expensive but at this stage if it works in might solve Ron's problem.
|LARRY WHETTON||07/08/2012 10:17:54|
819 forum posts
hi Bob ,
i have fixed a srip of lead flashing to the bottom of hull on black rose pirate ship with doudle sided
carpet tape also use this method to lay deck planking when i use coffee stierers ,
also i have used builder silacone to hold things in place
when the ballest is painted the same coulor as hull you dont nitice in the water ,.Larry..
|Bob Abell||07/08/2012 10:59:52|
8899 forum posts
Modellers need to be aware of the risk of sinking with this type of model
In a broadside collision, plastic boats go down to Davy Jones's locker!
A floating device attached to a length of strong cord on deck is a good idea? And any spare space in the hull could be filled with ping pong balls etc
Anyone got a better idea?
|ashley needham||07/08/2012 16:47:53|
6572 forum posts
If nothing else, one of the first things I do as soon as the hull is complete is to bath test it.
I think that Ron`s only options are to add chopped lead/ball weight, as this will fit in odd spaces or as per Larry, to add a false keel. This does not need to be permanent, a couple of small studs fixed in the bottom or better still two blanked off threaded nuts set flush underneath will allow a false keel to be bolted on prior to sailing and not impinge on the models looks while out of the water.
Surely must be some other Glasgow constructors looking at this post??
Expanded polystyrene bits used for loose packaging would be the stuff, small enough to put in the nooks and crannies for extra floatation. I would say a lifeboat made out of foam and attached with PVA to its cradle, and a long thread tied to it would be just the thing for an emergency pop-up flaot!!
|Bob Abell||07/08/2012 16:55:54|
8899 forum posts
The hull section in front of the cabin structure is totally inaccessible!
But there is a hatchway glued to the deck, in Ron's case, which could be prised off and made into an accessible ballast loading point
But the whole point is..........We don't know how much lead we are talking about!
Will somebody out there give us a clue, please
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