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John Sefton18/07/2007 18:06:00
14 forum posts
I really don't understand electrics. My Mountfleet model Danny Boy has just been launched, but the fuse melted after 5 minutes running. I am using a 6 volt battery. Can anyone give me some tips please. John
Charles Oates19/07/2007 09:15:00
573 forum posts
46 photos
Need more details John. What motor, prop,speed control, and fuse rating are you useing.
Fuses usualy blow because you are taking more current ( amps ) than the fuse is rated for, however you can't just use a larger fuse as it's there to protect the rest of your gear.
When the fuse blew was the prop fouled with weed etc?
Is the driveline,( propshaft and coupling ) running freely.
John Sefton19/07/2007 10:43:00
14 forum posts
Hi Charles, When I bought the kit at the Ellesmere Port Boat Show I spoke to a dealer and asked him for what was necessary for that kit. He supplied a "Johnson" motor but it has no markings on it. Ihave a Hitec SP-6/10A 6-8.4v speed controller. I am using the white metal 4 blade 2.75 in prop that came with the kit (I assume this is not very efficient). I am not sure what the fuse was as it has melted and know nothing about prop speed although I did need full throttle to move the boat at a reasonable speed(not fast).The drive seems ok and there was no weed. Maybe I should replace some of these parts? Appreciate your help, John.
Charles Oates19/07/2007 16:02:00
573 forum posts
46 photos
Hi John,frustrating isn't it, you would expect the gear bought like that to be fine, now to the cure. you have 3 courses open to you. Firstly why not join a club if there is one local to you, lots of people who have been through this sort of thing, and are always ready to help. What area are you in?
Secondly you could try to work this through. The prop is quite large for a direct drive, this puts a large load on the motor, and in response the motor will suck more amps from the battery, that would blow the fuse.
what you need to do is connect an ameater into the circuit to see how much current is being taken, you will need one that goes to 10 - 15 amps. This MUST be conected directly between the battery and the motor, take out the speed control, you do not want to fry that. Test the current drawn while the boat is in the test tank, (bath) so you can see the results under load.As your speed control is rated to a maximum of 10 amps, you will need to change either the motor or prop to arive at a load of not more than 7 amps, leaving 3 amps a a safty margin, because when a motor first starts there will be a surge of current.
Lastly, you could just go to a good model shop, tell them what you have and ask for a suitable motor. Ringing Westbourne models, or model motors direct will produce the same kind of help, both are excellent.
Let me know how you get on.
John Sefton19/07/2007 17:52:00
14 forum posts
Hi Charlie, Thanks for the most helpful reply, this is the first time I have tried out a forum of any sort and, thanks to you, I am most impressed. I live at New brighton and they have a lake and club so I will go down and chat. I have been a bit reluctant as I feel I am quite an amateur and the people at the lake, with their caps and gold braid, look most professional!!!!
I will let you know how I get on, everything you say makes sense and I feel wiser already. Thanks again, John
John Sefton30/07/2007 22:03:00
14 forum posts
Hi Charlie, Things have moved on a bit. Before I could fix the electrics someone came up with a good offer for my boat. I explained the situation and they were quite happy so I let it go. I also sold my model of the Joffre and with the proceeds I have bought the Bangarth kit from Mountfleet Models. What would you suggest for this model in the way of motor and electrics? It has a 70mm prop but I will purchase a brass one instead of the white metal. Regards, John
Charles Oates31/07/2007 22:08:00
573 forum posts
46 photos
Hi again john, the Bangarth is a great boat, lots of presence on the water. As to what to run it with, everyone you ask could have a different answer and they could all be right, I can only say what I would try.
For swinging a large prop some use a geared or belt drive, it's kind on the motor and you might get more torque at the prop. A direct drive will be quieter, which is important if you later buy a sound module to mimic the sound of the original engines, these are great as long as it isn't in a duet with the drive motor, gear whine sorta spoils the effect. If you go for a direct drive get a good low speed high torque motor with a matching speed control. I would use a sun 550 and a condor 20/2 controler. If you are interested in these look at the website for action products, and VERY importantly give them a ring before ordering and check what I've been saying is correct, I'm only human. Action are very highly regarded with great customer service. No I have no conection with them, it's just what other modelers say.
The model will carry loads of balast so you can put a good size battery in there, but make sure whatever you buy will go through the hatch.
I hope that helps a bit, happy modelling, let us know how you get on.

John Sefton31/07/2007 22:42:00
14 forum posts
Cheers Charlie, will be in touch, John. Anyone else out there got ideas???
DickyD07/08/2007 15:51:00
50 forum posts
50 photos
John probably shouldn't say this on here but if you also join the forum the owner of Action is a member
and gives Mayhem members a discount.
Malcolm Frary11/08/2007 23:00:00
901 forum posts
Go to a car accessory shop. Buy a blade type fuse mount and a selection of matching fuses, up to the max stated on the ESC and replace the melted blob. THe bayonet type fuse holders tend to get HOT and the plastic does melt. Been there, waited for the boat to drift in...

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