By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Dremel

Lead Ballast

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Ian Gardner12/06/2010 23:29:15
566 forum posts
1 photos
I think this is what we were saying!
Colin Bishop13/06/2010 09:53:48
5152 forum posts
6118 photos
419 articles
Not Quite, Bluebird was drawing attention to the presence of voids in the laminate so molten lead wouldn't simply burn its way through it would create minor explosions which could blow back or out through the gelcoat - and if there was water on the other side....
These days there should rarely be a need to melt lead unless you are casting an external appendage such as a bulb for the keel of a yacht in which case you would cast it properly in a separate mould. Whenever it comes to filling a cavity or simply laying ballast in the bottom of a boat then shot or small pieces either encapsulated in resin or in polybags is the way to go. Lead is still the preferred material due to its density and the fact that it will not significantly corrode.
Tankerman13/06/2010 11:17:28
11 forum posts
46 photos
To introduce lead ballast in to awkward or remote spaces this is the easiest product to use:
Maybe it is expensive but is still cheaper than blowing bits of your anatomy off with molten lead.

Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 13/06/2010 11:23:49

Davo113/06/2010 13:43:32
4 forum posts
Thanks everyone for your input ,appreciate advice concerning safety.
The problem I have is the limited  size of the keel cavity. 2kilos of lead is a lot of lead. If I use shot  and resin combined it could need twice the space of that  of solid lead ..I am finding it difficult to track down a local supplier of lead shot anyway and I will be making more than 1 boat.
I like the fluid lead product but 2 kilos freighted to Australia would be too costly.
I think that properly dried  out a plaster mould could be the best answer allowing me to cast the lead in one piece.

Edited By David Walters 1 on 13/06/2010 13:44:06

Colin Bishop13/06/2010 14:10:36
5152 forum posts
6118 photos
419 articles
Hi David,
If you were to use shot then you wouldn't need necessarily to mix it with the resin. The resin just goes on top to seal it in. If you are using sheet lead then, as suggested in an earlier post, cut it into manageable pieces and wedge it in and then again use resin to hold it in place. Also, with sheet lead, if you cut slices out to approximate the shape you need you can use a hammer to bash them together into a homogenous mass which should fit the cavity pretty closely.
Moulding it off the boat as you suggest would certainly be an alternative but would entail making a male plug from the cavity and then using this to make the female mould for casting which seems a lot of work for something that will never be seen.
If you do go down the moulding route then Google 'melting lead' and you will see lots of advice on methods and safety precautions on various angling sites.

Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 13/06/2010 14:15:17

Tony Hadley30/07/2015 21:46:46
914 forum posts
559 photos

Quite an old thread this, but one question which would help re: lead ballast.

With lead sheet/block ballast, what is the best adhesive to hold the lead sheet down and prevent the ballast from moving, when it can't be wedged in place? Would silicon sealant from the DIY be ok?

Malcolm Frary08/08/2015 10:22:08
1043 forum posts

Silicone sealant would stick it OK, but has the side effect of giving off acetic acid fumes (the vinegar smell). This hangs around like a...bad smell, and acts like acid with anything metal over time when in an enclosed space. Wet grab acrylic adhesives from a bit further along the shelf in the DIY shop work well.

Dave Milbourn08/08/2015 11:35:04
4025 forum posts
282 photos

I have recently encountered a product made by Evode, which is called (and I kid you not) "Sticks like sh*t". I've used it to stick polypropylene anti-intruder strips to roofing felt, and more recently some injection-moulded plastic guttering end-stops into aluminium guttering on a greenhouse. In both cases silicon sealant wouldn't touch the job.

It's claimed to be solvent-free and it really does do what it says on the tube. **LINK**


Kimosubby Shipyards08/08/2015 13:17:45
563 forum posts
272 photos

Great stuff Dave, I've used it several times. It sticks under water and to damp wood and brick etc. Takes time to go off (over night). I've used it to mount motor supports direct to hulls and to give support to exposed sections of prop tubes. It dries semi rigid. I've used it in plastic hulls and vac form hulls and it hasn't 'melted' through. It is expensive compared to silicone sealant - but well worth it. I've had a tube in use for near 2 years, just keep squeezing some through the tube every month or so to expel hardened material.

It'll stick anything to anything that's not oil covered. I've even used it to form a bow bumper for a yacht by squeezing it into an appropriately shaped chocolate box plastic insert, letting it go off and then carving and cutting to shape. Use a dab to then stick it to the yacht's bow.


All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Boats? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Boats!

Support Our Partners
Restorers Wanted
Premier March
Pendle Boilers
Shopping Partners
Social Media

'Like' us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter

Pin us on Pinterest

Member Contributions
Distributors of Model Boats for our overseas readers

Make sure you never miss out on the latest news, product reviews and competitions with our free RSS feed

Make your own contribution to the Website

We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.

In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.

The Member Contribution area offers space for short informative mini articles which would not normally find a place in Model Boats magazine. It is an opportunity for Website Members to freely share their  expertise and experience but I am afraid that virtue is its own reward as there is no budget to offer more material recompense!

I look forward to receiving your suggestions.

Colin Bishop - Website Editor