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Sir Lancelot

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Robin Lee14/02/2010 18:44:32
129 forum posts
122 photos
Hi paul. You have done a very good job on the weathering of the water tanks, anchors etc. Will be looking forward to seeing the hull weathering. I have never tried weathering as I feared I would ruin the model. MB mag had a very good article on weathering recently - did you use the techniques describe in the article?
Paul Godfrey14/02/2010 19:39:26
163 forum posts
292 photos
Hi Robin,
Thanks for your comments. The 2-part article you mention was one of the most interesting I've read, and has certainly come in very useful. I have used in places the dry-brushing method, and think the results for a first attempt are not bad at all. I've also run a small dry-ish brush over the edges of some components to highlight their rusty outline, and this I think has worked well (a good example of this is the photo of the anchor and the items to the left of it - if you imagine these just painted grey, they wouldn't have as much 'depth', and would look quite flat).
Oddly enough, the photos of the foredeck furniture do represent the items as they are EXCEPT the water tanks, which look better in reality. The flash seems to have made the dry brushing streaks look much harsher than they actually are.
Regards, Paul.
Gary Smith 124/02/2010 21:00:25
4 forum posts
Please excuse my naivety firstly. I am very new to model boat building but enjoying the challenge.
Your build is awesome, but I was very impressed with the electronic trays. Are these plastic card? If so how do you best cut and stick these so accurately. What tools and glues do you use. Your advice and patience is greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Paul Godfrey02/03/2010 22:37:28
163 forum posts
292 photos
Hi Gary,
Sorry for not responding sooner, but I've just come back from holiday (today in fact!). And many thanks for your comments, by the way.
Yes, the electronic 'tray' is made from plasticard sheet, 1.5mm thick, and the pieces are stuck together with liquid polystyrene cement (the ones that come with a very fine metal tube to apply the glue accurately).
I started off by marking the dimentions of a side piece onto a sheet of plasticard (these sheets are around 12 inches by 10 inches approx, so the length of the tray was set at 12 inches, in order that it could be cut out of a single sheet. For cutting the piece out, you just need a modellers knife with a sharp blade, a steel rule to ensure the cuts are straight, and a cutting mat.
 Once the two side pieces had been made, I placed one of them onto a flat surface, and using a set-square, drew the lines onto which the end and central upright pieces were to be glued (If you refer back to the previous posts regarding the tray, you can see similar lines drawn on the side-view of the tray - drawn on that occasion on the outside to help describe the compartments and shape of the tray). Then, it was just a case of placing the upright pieces, one at a time, onto their marked lines, supported by a pair of square blocks or engineers set-squares (one each side) to hold the pieces at 90 degrees. Then, a bead of liquid cement could be run along the joint, and allowed to dry (only takes a few minutes before the upright will support itself) before moving on to the next piece. Once all the upright pieces were glued ( and left to fully dry), the other side was attached, followed by the base pieces.
I finally fitted some strips on the inside corner joints for added strength. The various other assemblies, such as the fan housing for example, were built in the same way.
Hope that helps Gary, but please do not hesitate to ask for further clarification if needed.
Regards, Paul.
Gary Smith 103/03/2010 17:08:46
4 forum posts
Hope you had a great holiday and many thanks for such an informative response on your return. I found this most helpful and it was greatly appreciated. (ordered a shed load of plasticard today)
once again
many thanks Paul, and keep up the good work.
Paul Godfrey24/03/2010 17:12:22
163 forum posts
292 photos
The hull and decks have now been generally weathered, although as deck fittings etc are attached in the future, further localised wear & dirt will also be added.
The hull above the waterline & decks were given an overall weathering using an airbrush, followed by some brushed weathering in more heavilly rusted areas. The entire hull and decks were then given 2 coats of matt polyeurethane varnish, thinned 50/50 with enamel thinners. The following photos show both the entire boat, and some close-up detailing:

You can see on both the photo above and the one below how much better the bulwark & bulkhead rivet detail on the art-paper strips shows up. Both photos also show printed deck overlays, and on these I have varnished some of the 'planks' by masking off the others with 6mm Tamiya tape. I think this gives a more natural look compared with having all the planks the same colour. The photo below shows the ladders leading from the main deck to the foredeck which were weathered before being fitted. Although not really visible on the photo, I have scraped away a little of the paint centrally on each rung to expose the metal, to represent wear.

 The following pics are of the almost completed foredeck - only the anchor windlass to be added. All the deck furniture was pre-painted, including the stanchions, as seen in a previous posting.

I used 1mm brass wire for the railings, as that supplied in the kit (plastic-coated wire) bent far too easily, and I was fearfull of inflicting accidental damage!
The way I fitted the railings was as follows:
Firstly, I fitted 2 stanchions (with thick cyano) down each side of the foredeck - the one in front of each bollard, and the ones in front of these. These were left overnight to fully dry. I then bent 2 'U' shaped railings to form the upper and lower front sections, and slid 3 more stanchions onto these, which would become the front-most 3 stanchions (with the fairleads in between).  Then a trial fit, by pushing the ends of the railing sections into the 4 previously glued stanchions to see how much wire needs to be trimmed off each end. Once done, the wires were again passed through the attached stanchions, and this time, the 3 front stanchions were glued into their holes. Once set, a little thin cyano was used to attach the railings where they pass through the stanchions.
A similar procedure was then used for the rear railing sections. The 3 remaining stanchions on each side were glued in place (where the water tanks are positioned and at the rear-most outer corners) and again left to dry overnight. Lengths of wires were then bent to form the upper and lower rear sections - the upper sections are longer, as they pass over the bollards, and at the other end, become hand-rails for the ladders.  A stanchion (which fits at the top, and to the outside of, each ladder, was slid over each pair of railing sections, and trial fitted, then glued, as before. The remaining rear-inner railing sections with 2 stanchions each were then fitted.
The railings were then brush-painted, and finally weathered.
Hope that sort of makes sense!!
Finally for this posting, is a photo of the parts (minus lengths of 1.5mm and 2.2mm wire) for the anchor windlass, which will be my next task.

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 24/03/2010 17:16:40

neil howard-pritchard24/03/2010 18:12:50
2260 forum posts
2759 photos
nice work, paul.
something i have never attempted,
looks great.
Dave Milbourn24/03/2010 18:14:12
4025 forum posts
282 photos
It's going to sound rather special, too..........
Paul Godfrey24/03/2010 19:34:47
163 forum posts
292 photos
Thanks Neil, I don't think it's too bad for a first go!
Mr Milbourn, your powers of opportunism are to be much admired!!
My P100 arrived today, and I am looking forward to having a play at a later date (although I've positioned all the other ACTion goodies in the electronics tray, I've yet to connect them up). I've been asked to do a bit of a presentation on my boat's electronics & tray at my club's next meeting in April, so I'll try and find the time to get it all wired up.
For the benefit of those who don't know what a P100 is, it's ACTion's brand spanking new DIGITAL sound module, with actual sampled sounds as opposed to 'representations' of sounds. You can buy it as a 'plug-and-play' device (no PC needed) complete with a set of sounds of your choice, or with an optional Windows-based utility program on a CD which allows you to select, download & tinker with sounds from your PC. Do have a look at this unit on their website - fascinating stuff!!
Paul Godfrey31/03/2010 18:20:42
163 forum posts
292 photos
Hi all,
A brief update this time, with a few photos of the completed anchor windlass. I'm pleased with how it's turned out, and very much look forward in the future to building the main winch, which contains probably 4 or 5 times the number of parts.

Once the windlass has been attached to the foredeck, the small eye bolt seen in the first two photos will be fixed into the deck, and the barring lever can then be bound to it. Finally, the anchor chain can be fitted.
That's the foredeck completed, and I'll post some photos in due course which will also show the forward gun deck, once this area has been finished off. My next job, however, will be to wire-up the electronics (I just need to buy a receiver), as I think that on a long build such as this, it's a good idea to vary the tasks rather than just do all the building in one go, all the painting in one go, etc.

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 31/03/2010 18:28:00

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